Motorized Grain Mills: Time to show them off!

[YNOT2K]

Thanks to this great thread I just finished mine. Free Bodine 90 deg gear motor, diy hopper, $3.00 microwave cart from Goodwill, and a Monster Mill 2 roller.

 

[Copbrew133]

Dude, that's sharp!

 

[srice]

Great thread since I am getting ready to add a motor to my mill. I thought I was going to be lucky because I knew I had an old 1/2hp motor in a cabinet, but unfortunately it is a 3450 rpm motor. I then had a friend offer up a broken drill press - the rack and pinion for raising the table is trashed. The motor is a 3/4 hp 1725 rpm motor and is has a dual pulley system which will take the speed down to 190 rpm. Anybody try using the pulley system and motor from a drill press before?

 

[carkom]

I just got my monster mill about a month ago. I have it rigged so that the mill runs using the same treadmill motor that runs my home made peristaltic pump using v-belts for both.

 

[BethelLight]

Nice! Here's mine....

 

[Huaco]

^^^^^^
You. Must. Provide. Specs!
That thing is WAAAAAY too much of a beast to leave us hanging like you did!

 

[FredTheNuke]

MM3-2.0 with hardened rollers. 1 horsepower Grizzly motor. Sheaves are Martin with a 178 rpm calculated mill speed.

 

[AnOldUR]

Belt tensioner. Genius!

 

[lpdjshaw]

Nice! Here's mine....

Wow, now that's a motor!

 

[BethelLight]

^^^^^^
You. Must. Provide. Specs!
That thing is WAAAAAY too much of a beast to leave us hanging like you did!

It is basically a cabinet I built to the dimensions of the 8 gal bucket that I wanted to collect grain in. I took the wheels off of a cheap dolly I bought at Harbor Freight.

The motor is a 1/2 hp variable speed gear-motor. It may be a little more powerful than needed but I really liked the built in variable speed. It can be adjusted from 64-384 rpm. They can be expensive new but I got this one off of a guy on craigslist for $120.

Thanks for the kind words!

 

[Frige]

Here is mine. It has a stainless top so doubles as a table when not in use. I picked up the cabinet at goodwill for 20 bucks, and the motor off of ebay for 50. Not as pretty as some of y'alls but works good.

 

[jammin]

Very efficient! Great creativity/enginuity

 

[Philo2013]

Crankandstein 2A on a tub

 

[Koffie]

I have a chinese maltmill, build into a kicthendrawer :

[ame]http://youtu.be/7__QrP8KbKc[/ame]

The kitchen is build in my brewing-shed

 

[milldoggy]

Here is my monster mill 3 2.0 with the harbor freight drill mount. Thing rocks. I used an old kitchen cabinet, made a shute out of an aluminum sheet and pop riveted it. That is under the mill.

 

[erikrocks]

Does anyone have any leads on affordable high torque/low speed motors to drive a MM2-2.0? I've scoured the surplus sites and have come up empty. Help?

 

[FredTheNuke]

Does anyone have any leads on affordable high torque/low speed motors to drive a MM2-2.0? I've scoured the surplus sites and have come up empty. Help?

Grizzly Products has a 1 HP for 170 shipped. You want the enclosed one - G2532 model on Amazon.

 

[drunkenmonk]

Does anyone have any leads on affordable high torque/low speed motors to drive a MM2-2.0? I've scoured the surplus sites and have come up empty. Help?

Here's what I used: http://m.globalindustrial.com/m/p/m...tefc-rem-c-1-ph-56c-1-hp-68-fla-less-overload. I paired it up with a 10-to-1 gear reducer.

 

[Gringo_Bandito]

Here is what I whipped up over the weekend.

 

[MaltyHops]

Hello Brewophiles,

Looking through the motorized mill setups in this thread, just about all of the ones using sheaves and large electric motors have the motors uncovered and I was wondering whether there is a reason the motors need to be uncovered or is it simply that noone has bothered to do otherwise?

I was thinking that to deal with the danger of dust explosions and providing safety barrier whether a mill station with the sheave/large electric motor enclosed in a close fitting compartment would work? Or would the motor not get enough air flow and overheat?

Cheers.

 

[reynolds5520]

Sheaves, belts and shafts should, of course, be enclosed or guarded to protect against accidental contact or entanglement. Motors and switches should be of an explosion proof type or be enclosed away from the dust environment.

In a commercial setting those would be requirements. In the DIY homebrewer community there isn't anyone checking so you sometimes (often?) see a more relaxed approach to safety standards.

Your concept of enclosing your motor is a good one. How hot it gets will depend on things like type of motor and cooling, volume of open space in the compartment, motor duty cycle and loading, and air flow. Make the space as big as you can and see how hot it gets on a typical run. You can add a fan(s) and dust filtered air supply later if needed.


Have you seen the morebeer.com UltiMill? It has a guarded driveline and explosion proof motor. There's a reason it has the price tag it does.

 

[FredTheNuke]

Buy a TEFC motor (totally enclosed fan cooled) and you are good to go!

Link to what it takes to power an MM3-2.0:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7U7BF8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[MaltyHops]

Thank you for the feedback guys.

I brew small batches (~5gal) so a motorised, sheaved mill wouldn't need to run for very long at any one time and probably won't get too hot before finishing.

It looks like TEFC motors are available here as well fortunately, since international shipping of the Amazon listed motors is not available.

Cheers,
Tom.

 

[raouliii]

Here is mine:



I am selling a similar setup, minus a mill, in the for sale forum: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f16/motor-reducer-assembly-grain-mill-446662/#post5724075

 

[erikrocks]

Hey folks. I just ordered a MM 2-2.0 and am thinking of getting a Grizzly motor. Anyone know what type (or even better, have a LINK) for a gear reducer for this motor? I'd rather not have to deal with pulleys an belts...

 

[calebstringer]

Hey folks. I just ordered a MM 2-2.0 and am thinking of getting a Grizzly motor. Anyone know what type (or even better, have a LINK) for a gear reducer for this motor? I'd rather not have to deal with pulleys an belts...

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Elect...115-230-VAC-56C-TEFC-LEESON-MOTOR-10-2700.axd

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...-0-77-HP-56C-RIGHT-OUTPUT-13-133-10-R-56C.axd

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6408k14/=pt8q2e

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6408k75/=pt8qbh

Here ya go

 

[calebstringer]

Erik, the motor you listed will not allow a gear box to be bolted to it. Check out the one I linked, for the same price

 

[erikrocks]

Erik, the motir you listed will not allow a gear box to be bolted to it. Check out the one I linked, for the same price

Thanks!

Will I need a capacitor to run the motor?

 

[calebstringer]

Thanks!

Will I need a capacitor to run the motor?

The motor is set up with everything you need. The only other thing I added was a barrel switch so that I could reverse it if it jammed.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7065k21/=ptf3w5

 

[calebstringer]

Actually, get this motor instead. It's 3/4hp, matching the input rating of the gearbox. I swore that the gearbox was 1.25hp, but was mistaken.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...115-230-VAC-56C-TEFC-LEESON-MOTOR-10-2699.axd