Morebeer's new bottom drain brew kettles

[Deadalus]

I have an electric keggle with hopstopper. Hopstopper is 2-3 years old? I have no need to recirculate during the boil. For a 6 gallon batch, anything over 50% power is plenty virgorous to where I have no need to even stir. Similar for 10 gallons, but maybe a little more power.

I also whirlpool hops for 20-30 minutes through another port not connected to my hopstopper using a Spike Flow, no problems with hazies. Temps 155-175F. Only problem Is I recently discovered it requires a shorter period for breaking down the pump for deep cleaning. I normally CIP every brew for 30 minutes at 150F. I might have been beyond my deep cleaning interval but I don't think so and the pump was gunky. Could have been I didn't use the correct amount of PBW. Spike claims the propellor chews through hops. Whole hops I'd probably still put in a spider, mostly pellets these days.

Before the hopstopper, nearly all trub went in the fermenter with a side pickup. (I would tilt the keggle at the end) With the hopstopper some trub I think settles with the hops. Really can't tell how much. Pickup tube is neary centered but floating as the hopstopper bottom is flat and the end of the pickup tube touches the hopstopper bottom.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

I only got a brief glance at the system I mentioned above with the bottom cut out rather than the top. It was used as a mash tun. IIRC, the original sanke opening connected to a pump and the plumbing housed a PID controlled heating element before returning to the mash tun. At the time, I was only doing 5 gallon batches, and everything on propane. I might would have given it a second glance these days.

 

[Deadalus]

Not much different than cooling wort down by setting a kettle in a sink with cold water, as you will need to stir the wort to speed up the heat transfer.

I don't think it is the same. You might be able let the sink run to refresh the cold water, but it wouldn't be the same as pumping tap temperature water into the jacket. Even if you could run the faucet fully open in the sink, the overflow won't circulate the same in most cases as it would in the jacket. Kettle also needs to fit in the sink too. Stirring the wort would improve both options in my opinion.

 

[Deadalus]

I only got a brief glance at the system I mentioned above with the bottom cut out rather than the top. It was used as a mash tun. IIRC, the original sanke opening connected to a pump and the plumbing housed a PID controlled heating element before returning to the mash tun. At the time, I was only doing 5 gallon batches, and everything on propane. I might would have given it a second glance these days.

I use 3 vessels, my MT was originally a keggle. I think a bottom drain under the false bottom would be an improvement. Pumping would be easier and loss to dead space would be nearly 0. I recirculated during the mash to HERMS coil. Pickup tube was centered towards the bottom of the keggle bowl bottom. That would need priming with my March pumps usually. My Blichmann will grab it if I open the bleeder valve most of the time. Once in a while maybe need to fill the tubing to prime. I have an SSBT infussion now. It bottom drains and I don't recall filling the tubing just using the bleeder valve.

My BK uses a nearly center pickup as described above for wort transfer. No priming issues it has a bleeder valve. CIP I use the side pickup which reaches a little into the bowl. The flow path of my CIP includes a CFC and the HERMS coil. Once in a while the Spike balks at that. Rinsing, I use a bucket of rinse water but also sometimes the BK. I sometimes can't get the bucket started from the floor and need to prime the tubing with water. Even sometimed putting the bucket on the table no go. And once in a great while it takes 2 or more tries. If I break the seal/suction and run the rinse water through the BK the same thing can happen. So a bottom pickup there would be useful plus it's hard to pump all the last dregs of the dirty PBW water out. Somewhat minor issue but at midnight fussing with that last rinse is extremely annoying when it happens.

If I had an opening in my brew table, I might consider soldering or welding a bottom port. My hopstopper would block it for recirculation however. The hops would form a seal around the perimeter of the hopstopper bottom, potentially even collapsing it. But without the hopstopper, I don't see a recirc problem.

I don't BIAB just to note, so very specific considerations for that I wouldn't be able to address.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

I don't think it is the same. You might be able let the sink run to refresh the cold water, but it wouldn't be the same as pumping tap temperature water into the jacket. Even if you could run the faucet fully open in the sink, the overflow won't circulate the same in most cases as it would in the jacket. Kettle also needs to fit in the sink too. Stirring the wort would improve both options in my opinion.

I meant where you still need to stir the wort to cool faster.