More to it than I thought.

[Altrez]

This is why we were so insistent that you finally start brewing. You could read a thousand posts telling you the beer wouldn't be ready in eight days, but you still don't really know until you've tried flat, eight day old beer yourself.

I know! I am learning a lot more now then I ever did just reading about brewing. And everything I read now makes more sense.



-Altrez

 

[PADave]

Hi,

I did not check the date of the yeast. I will remember to do that next time.

-Altrez

What strain of yeast is it?

 

[Altrez]

What strain of yeast is it?

I think it is just brewers yeast. I do not know for sure.

-Altrez

 

[PADave]

I think it is just brewers yeast. I do not know for sure.

-Altrez

And that's exactly my point about those novelty kits. You have no idea what you are using. So you can't even find out what the optimum temps for fermentation are. I had gotten a free kit at a big box outdoor store and brewed it for one of my first brews. Had a packet of yeast, who knows what strain. Had packets of hops, didn't say what kind, only when to add them. Who knows how old everything was. Ended up being my worst batch. Funny how you spent crazy amounts on equipment to brew inferior beer kits.

 

[Altrez]

And that's exactly my point about those novelty kits. You have no idea what you are using. So you can't even find out what the optimum temps for fermentation are. I had gotten a free kit at a big box outdoor store and brewed it for one of my first brews. Had a packet of yeast, who knows what strain. Had packets of hops, didn't say what kind, only when to add them. Who knows how old everything was. Ended up being my worst batch. Funny how you spent crazy amounts on equipment to brew inferior beer kits.

The Mr. Beer kits are just one of the types of kits I am brewing. I am not sure how it will turn out but I know other people who brew the kits and love them.

It is a waiting game for now and I will post results as soon as these 3 batches are ready.

-Altrez

 

[kh54s10]

The Mr. Beer kits are just one of the types of kits I am brewing. I am not sure how it will turn out but I know other people who brew the kits and love them.

It is a waiting game for now and I will post results as soon as these 3 batches are ready.

-Altrez

Have these people used any higher quality kits? They may love them now but if they brewer a more quality kit they may change their minds.

 

[MaryB]

I heard Mr. Beer kits are starting to include steeping grains... I would never buy one but hey, whatever floats your boat! The 1 gallon Northern Brewer kits are high quality.

 

[Altrez]

I heard Mr. Beer kits are starting to include steeping grains... I would never buy one but hey, whatever floats your boat! The 1 gallon Northern Brewer kits are high quality.

Yeah I have 4 of the NB kits I am getting ready to brew. I also plan on trying a few of the partial mash Mr. Beer kits.

-Altez

 

[Altrez]

Have these people used any higher quality kits? They may love them now but if they brewer a more quality kit they may change their minds.

They went to All grain after a few months. Some of them still use the LBK's to dry hop and split batch fermenting.

I personal like the kits so far, now will it taste good? I guess we will have to wait and see.

-Altrez

 

[Altrez]

Hello All,

I know a lot of people on here test and sample their fermenting batches every so often. I am thinking about a few options one is a brewometer that is constantly sending me data via Bluetooth or a beer bug that pretty much does the same thing and the cheapest option is just testing once a week with refractometer.

What type of fermentation monitoring are you guys / gals using and on what type of schedule?

Thanks!

-Altrez

 

[McKnuckle]

Frequent testing and sampling during primary is a practice that new brewers insist on, because they are endlessly fascinated with the process, and not sure yet how it works. For the experienced brewer, it is neither a good nor a necessary practice.

Your job is to pitch healthy yeast at the right temperature, regulate that temperature, and leave it alone for 10-14 days before so much as breathing on it (don't actually do that). Take gravity at that point, and if it's as expected, cold crash for a couple of days, then package it.

Your money and energy will be better spent on quality ingredients and brewing practice, not on equipment or gadgets.

 

[Altrez]

Frequent testing and sampling during primary is a practice that new brewers insist on, because they are endlessly fascinated with the process, and not sure yet how it works. For the experienced brewer, it is neither a good nor a necessary practice.

Your job is to pitch healthy yeast at the right temperature, regulate that temperature, and leave it alone for 10-14 days before so much as breathing on it (don't actually do that). Take gravity at that point, and if it's as expected, cold crash for a couple of days, then package it.

Your money and energy will be better spent on quality ingredients and brewing practice, not on equipment or gadgets.

But I love gadgets!!!!!!

:rockin:

Thanks for the input!

-Altrez

 

[McKnuckle]

So do I. I am an engineer in my working life and an unapologetic tinkerer. Still, there is no escaping the truth that gadgets do not make the beer. There is a law of diminishing returns at play here. I think the giant brewing systems with monitoring and control boxes and lights are COOL, but I can make beer that's just as good with my fairly simple setup.

Anyway, folks here are trying to explain that it's the ingredients and process - time and temperature and sanitation mostly - that will make or break your product. Buy the Bluetooth ferm monitor if you like, enjoy it, just don't think it will make anything actually taste better.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Hello All,
What type of fermentation monitoring are you guys / gals using and on what type of schedule?
-Altrez

Time and one specific gravity test once that time is up with a hydrometer (most of the time).

If it is a simple Ale and I am not pushing it:

Start a couple of degrees below planned temp for the first 12-24 hours
Raise to planned temp for 4 more days
On day 6 (or when the visible activity stops) raise the temp to about 70-75 for 2 days
Check SG and if what I wanted
Cold crash (if a translucent beer) for about 48 hours
Keg and carbonate or dry hop then carbonate

A little more care does have to be taken for bottle conditioning so the SG tests at least 48 hours apart are a better idea. All of the above times are also yeast dependent but most British or American ale yeasts are pretty much done after 5 days if you pitch adequate yeast...the rest is just them cleaning up and floc'ing out.

 

[kh54s10]

I sometime take a taste of the wort before adding the yeast. I then wait 2-3 weeks. I take a gravity reading to see where it ended up. I taste that sample. After I bottle or keg the beer I wait until it should be carbonated, 2-3 weeks when bottling and 5-10 days when kegging depending on how I pressurized it.

Sometimes there is a dramatic difference in the taste between bottling day and when it is fully carbonated.

There are a couple different "brewometers" One on Kickstarter is over a year past production date with no deliveries.....

For me, I don't need to know the progress of the fermentation all the time.

 

[kh54s10]

But I love gadgets!!!!!!

:rockin:

Thanks for the input!

-Altrez

That is obvious. You have already bought advanced gadgets that you will not have any use for until you progress to all grain. Even then you have bought stuff that you don't really even need.

 

[PADave]

I ferment for 3 weeks. That way I know it's done and things are nice and settled out. Only time I take a hydrometer reading after fermentation has started is during bottling. The only time I open the fermenter is to dry hop. Other than that everything stays sealed up. Every time you open your fermenter up and stick something in it you risk infection.

 

[HopHeavy]

One hydro reading after chilling, one at bottling 4 or so weeks later. No infections.

 

[Jwin]

If you insist on spending more, but a Pyrex graduated cylinder for you hydrometer. That and 2 hydrometers are all you need for gravity(because hydrometers are fragile and one will break at the worst time).
Give it 2-3 weeks then test, if bottling, test again 2-3 days later. Make sure you adjust for temperature per the calibration temp on your hydrometer if cold crashing. Google for a calculator.

My recommended stepping stones for new AG brewers:
1)sanitation
-keep a few bottles of star San made with distilled water in chemical grade spray bottles around, but out of sun light. Remember star San takes a couple minutes to work so a quick spray won't do it alone
2)temperature
Own your mash and fermentation Temps
Keep records of your mash Temps so you know how much your tun absorbs and can make solid adjustments on your next brewday.
3) pH
This is where I am. Focusing on my pH throughout the process, from dough in to final product

Note, I am blessed with great water post filtration and Camden.

I believe that if you take care of those three things, pitch good yeast and have a good recipe and crush, you will make consistent and good beer. I've made great brew without tinkering with pH but I love hop bombs and dark beer as well, which require differences in pH.

 

[Altrez]

Time and one specific gravity test once that time is up with a hydrometer (most of the time).

If it is a simple Ale and I am not pushing it:

Start a couple of degrees below planned temp for the first 12-24 hours
Raise to planned temp for 4 more days
On day 6 (or when the visible activity stops) raise the temp to about 70-75 for 2 days
Check SG and if what I wanted
Cold crash (if a translucent beer) for about 48 hours
Keg and carbonate or dry hop then carbonate

A little more care does have to be taken for bottle conditioning so the SG tests at least 48 hours apart are a better idea. All of the above times are also yeast dependent but most British or American ale yeasts are pretty much done after 5 days if you pitch adequate yeast...the rest is just them cleaning up and floc'ing out.

Thank you for the post it was very helpful!



-Altrez

 

[Martyn74]

Hi all,I'm new here and have made homebrew for 30 years now,my query is this,I've read that a lager yeast makes a nice cider but has anyone ever used the bayanus yeast to make a lager?

 

[Altrez]

Hi all,I'm new here and have made homebrew for 30 years now,my query is this,I've read that a lager yeast makes a nice cider but has anyone ever used the bayanus yeast to make a lager?

I am sure one of the posters here can answer your question they are some of the smartest people I have talked to!

On a side note I was looking into making cider have you made many batches?

-Altrez

 

[Rhaop]

If you insist on spending more, but a Pyrex graduated cylinder for you hydrometer. That and 2 hydrometers are all you need for gravity(because hydrometers are fragile and one will break at the worst time).
Give it 2-3 weeks then test, if bottling, test again 2-3 days later. Make sure you adjust for temperature per the calibration temp on your hydrometer if cold crashing. Google for a calculator.

My recommended stepping stones for new AG brewers:
1)sanitation
-keep a few bottles of star San made with distilled water in chemical grade spray bottles around, but out of sun light. Remember star San takes a couple minutes to work so a quick spray won't do it alone
2)temperature
Own your mash and fermentation Temps
Keep records of your mash Temps so you know how much your tun absorbs and can make solid adjustments on your next brewday.
3) pH
This is where I am. Focusing on my pH throughout the process, from dough in to final product

Note, I am blessed with great water post filtration and Camden.

I believe that if you take care of those three things, pitch good yeast and have a good recipe and crush, you will make consistent and good beer. I've made great brew without tinkering with pH but I love hop bombs and dark beer as well, which require differences in pH.

Great points, you listed it but i would make #2A yeast health, pitching rates and #2B temp control

 

[MaryB]

Stick it in the fermenter, stick it in the fridge and ignore for 2-4 weeks(depends on the beer), check FG, bottle, stick it back into the fermenting fridge, ignore 2 weeks. Taste test... maybe let it sit longer... I don't peek, poke, prod my beer.

 

[Altrez]

Has anyone used this kit from NB?

http://www.northernbrewer.com/biab-brew-in-a-bag-all-grain-starter-kit

I am looking at BIAB as my next step after my experimentation with extract brewing.

Thanks!

-Altrez

 

[chickypad]

Don't you already have all kinds of equipment? I think a reasonable person would just buy the bag and ingredients not pay $70 for some odds and ends like a spoon and thermometer that you mush have already. But then again, I don't think anyone is really trying to argue you are reasonable.

 

[PADave]

Has anyone used this kit from NB?

http://www.northernbrewer.com/biab-brew-in-a-bag-all-grain-starter-kit

I am looking at BIAB as my next step after my experimentation with extract brewing.

Thanks!

-Altrez

That kit really doesn't have much. Get yourself a Wilserbrewer bag, custom made for your pot, they are well worth it. Check them out here if you've never heard about them.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=441854

Otherwise you got a spoon and a thermometer. Basically all you need to go BIAB is a kettle and a bag. NB sells those 3 gallon kits, but you can use any 5 gallon AG kit or recipe to do BIAB. Nothing special about BIAB, except that is as easy as you can get to brew AG. I do full volume, no sparge mash. Simple as heating up strike water, put the bag and grains in, wait an hour, pull out bag and start boil.

 

[Altrez]

Don't you already have all kinds of equipment? I think a reasonable person would just buy the bag and ingredients not pay $70 for some odds and ends like a spoon and thermometer that you mush have already. But then again, I don't think anyone is really trying to argue you are reasonable.

I think I am very reasonable and at the end of the day I am sure everyone will come to see my big picture And for the record I like having extras!!!!!!



-Altrez

 

[MaryB]

Northern Brewer sells decent quality equipment so it will do what you want. The spoon is heavy duty, the strainer is also heavy duty. Add in a 3 gallon beer kit and you do get your money's worth. Caribou Slobber is some tasty stuff after 4+ weeks of aging. The mash paddle being plastic is the iffy part of the kit.

Has anyone used this kit from NB?

http://www.northernbrewer.com/biab-brew-in-a-bag-all-grain-starter-kit

I am looking at BIAB as my next step after my experimentation with extract brewing.

Thanks!

-Altrez

 

[Altrez]

Update:

Monday is brew day at the house this evening! I finally have enough time to brew my first NB 1 gallon kit. It looks pretty straight forward but if anyone has any good advise I would love to have it

-Altrez