Missed my final gravity.....what did I do wrong?

[WoodlandBrew]

The yeast nutrient I picked up is "fermax yeast nutrient BSG". I'm. When I racked everything over to the secondary fermenter I had a little more than 5 gallons and filled it all the way up to the top of the neck. So tonight I'll siphon a little out to make room and add a 1tsp of boiled yeast nutrient to the work and stir in slowly. I'll also take another gravity reading since I'll be siphoning out some anyways. How much will a cup of Bourbon affect the gravity so I can adjust for that since the original reading was without the Bourbon added.

Also woodlandbrew I read you have a book you wrote. Where can I find it. I find having multiple sources of literature is helpful and you all being such awesome sources and helping me out I got to get myself a copy.

It looks like that one contains diammonium phosphate, magnesium sulfate, yeast hulls, B vitamins and calcium salts. The diammonium phosphate would be important if it is a nitrogen deficiency, and the yeast hulls will help if it is a sterol limit, but not much.

My book is "Brewing Engineering" and is available on Amazon, but you can also get it through my blog: www.woodlandbrew.com

I agree with St. Pug, if the beer tastes fine, then don't worry about what the numbers are.

 

[Deathrage]

It looks like that one contains diammonium phosphate, magnesium sulfate, yeast hulls, B vitamins and calcium salts. The diammonium phosphate would be important if it is a nitrogen deficiency, and the yeast hulls will help if it is a sterol limit, but not much.

My book is "Brewing Engineering" and is available on Amazon, but you can also get it through my blog: www.woodlandbrew.com

I agree with St. Pug, if the beer tastes fine, then don't worry about what the numbers are.

So I just followed your advice and prepped the yeast nutrients (seemed like you were unimpressed with that brand, do you have a better one in mind?) and am currently waiting for it to cool before adding it to the wort. In the mean time i siphoned some out (to make some room for the nutrients) and took another measurement and taste.

The reading went down maybe just ever so slightly, I am reading a 1.028 if I read from the meniscus. Also there seems to not be much taste to it other that some initial sweetness then a very toasty finish, almost burnt taste that filles the nose to, and I don't seem to get much vanilla. I fear maybe I used to many oak chip (I steeped 1.5oz of medium Toasted French oak in 1cup of bourbon with 3 split and scraped vanilla beans). I might be willing to give it another 2 weeks since I am also going to start a honey mead over the weekend (got all sorts of research to do for that one). I am somewhat on a schedule as I am brewing this beer/mead/cider for my upcoming wedding in October and want these to be served at the reception. I feel if it doesn't come around I might ditch it and either try again (maybe with some dark DME this time) or go in a different direction.

Also woodlandbrew, your book and knowledge on the subject are beyond impressive, I'll absolutely have to pick up a copy in hopes of better understanding what is going on with my beers at a more scientific level. But I feel like I need to better understand the basics first. Fear not, I already have John Palmers "how to brew" and the Charlie Papazian "the complete joy of home brewing fourth edition" (I personally like John palmers book a bit more, seems to flow more logically). I'll be adding your book to my reading table soon!

 

[WoodlandBrew]

So I just followed your advice and prepped the yeast nutrients (seemed like you were unimpressed with that brand, do you have a better one in mind?) and am currently waiting for it to cool before adding it to the wort. In the mean time i siphoned some out (to make some room for the nutrients) and took another measurement and taste.

The reading went down maybe just ever so slightly, I am reading a 1.028 if I read from the meniscus. Also there seems to not be much taste to it other that some initial sweetness then a very toasty finish, almost burnt taste that filles the nose to, and I don't seem to get much vanilla. I fear maybe I used to many oak chip (I steeped 1.5oz of medium Toasted French oak in 1cup of bourbon with 3 split and scraped vanilla beans). I might be willing to give it another 2 weeks since I am also going to start a honey mead over the weekend (got all sorts of research to do for that one). I am somewhat on a schedule as I am brewing this beer/mead/cider for my upcoming wedding in October and want these to be served at the reception. I feel if it doesn't come around I might ditch it and either try again (maybe with some dark DME this time) or go in a different direction.

Also woodlandbrew, your book and knowledge on the subject are beyond impressive, I'll absolutely have to pick up a copy in hopes of better understanding what is going on with my beers at a more scientific level. But I feel like I need to better understand the basics first. Fear not, I already have John Palmers "how to brew" and the Charlie Papazian "the complete joy of home brewing fourth edition" (I personally like John palmers book a bit more, seems to flow more logically). I'll be adding your book to my reading table soon!

Fermax is fine. I actually haven't found a product that has the sterols that are needed for healthy anaerobic cell growth. If you are pitching at least 0.75 billion per liter degree plato, and aerating well at inoculation, it's not really an issue, and effects the subsequent beer more than thee beer used to propagate the cells.

That's a good sign that it's still coming down. With the nutrient it should start going down a little faster. This one might take another few weeks.

I hope you enjoy the book.

 

[lazarwolf]

Definitely get woodlands book. But, understand woodlands book is a scientific document. I have noted and highlighted all through my copy of it. Really take the time to read and understand it. It doesn't flow like Palmer's book, which is also excellent. But it is v loaded with the stuff you need to know to go to the next level, and he dispels some silly traditions of home brewing too. Plus he's a darn nice guy who is kind enough to help us out.

If your beer had no hop flavor or bitterness at all, not with standing the yeast issues already discussed that are causing your high gravity and sweetness, it can be fixed. You can make a hop tea. Don't kill a batch ever before you come in line and ask if there's a solution.

 

[Deathrage]

Fermax is fine. I actually haven't found a product that has the sterols that are needed for healthy anaerobic cell growth. If you are pitching at least 0.75 billion per liter degree plato, and aerating well at inoculation, it's not really an issue, and effects the subsequent beer more than thee beer used to propagate the cells.



That's a good sign that it's still coming down. With the nutrient it should start going down a little faster. This one might take another few weeks.



I hope you enjoy the book.

I'll be taking another reading here over the weekend. My fear is that the only reason the gravity went down at all (could have been 1.029 for as much as I can tell) could be from the 1 cup bourbon that I added in with the secondary.

Of course I don't plan to just ditch the batch just becuase I'm not getting the "warm and fuzzies" RIGHT NOW. I'm going to brew this mead over the weekend and when it is time to rack it over into secondary in a few weeks I'll decide weather or not to try again or just keep going with what I already have.

I also had a feeling by just listening to woodlandbrew talk about beer and the Schoenberg what the yeast are doing, as well as looking at his blog I could tell that his book is easily written at a higher level that a introductory book. Having a good fundamental and basic understanding as a foundation I'm sure will make reading through it feel less like reading Greek and more like I'm being taken back to school. And indeed he/you are and awesome guy!

 

[WoodlandBrew]

Thanks! Good lick on your brews.