Mini-fridge fermentation chamber

[RyPA]

I came across a retailer selling what appears to be the exact same fridge as the kegerator that I bought from home depot 15 years ago. It is a kegerator conversion fridge where it's prepped to be a kegerator and you supply all of the kegerator hardware. Based on the thermostat and layout, it looks just like the Vissani from home depot. It has been listed for $500 but today I caught it on sale for around $366 with free shipping so I picked one up, its surprisingly arriving tomorrow.

On Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/EdgeStar-BR2...ext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&gQT=1
On their own site - https://www.build.com/edgestar-br2001/s1167674?uid=2794231

What I need help with is:
1. What heat source should I use? Should I get a ceramic bulb or a heat pad? Any pointers are appreciated
2. How do you configure the thermostat to keep the temp as close as possible to your target temp?
3. Is it better to use a thermowell instead of having the probe sitting in liquid within the chamber? I am hoping to not drill into my All Rounder pressure lid, but if it is the ideal way then I'll do it.
4. I plan to use an Inkbird ITC-1000, since it's now the fridges thermostat. Any benefit to using the ITC-308?

 

[mac_1103]

1. I use a pad. Lots of people use bulbs. I'm don't know if one is any better than the other.
2. Not sure what you mean. It sounds like the fridge already has an ITC-1000 wired into it. Just follow the instructions.
3. I suppose a thermowell is the best solution, but lots of us just tape (or velcro) the probe to the side of the fermenter with some foam insulation. Works well.
4. I use an ITC-312 and I like it. But if you already have an ITC-1000 then I'm not sure there's any advantage to switching.

 

[RyPA]

The mechanical thermostat died on the fridge so i installed the ITC-1000.

Thermostats allow you to configure when the heat or cold turn on based on probe temp (for example, heat turns on when temp is 4F colder than target).

Looking for to identify the best setting to keep the fermenter closest to the desired temp.

 

[Bobby_M]

A mat style heater spreads its heat out on the fermenter really well, and gently. I tape a thick piece of styrofoam to the the fermenter with a little slot hogged out and slip the probe in. Thermowells generally cause a lot of oscillation because they are often too deep into the beer.

 

[RyPA]

A mat style heater spreads its heat out on the fermenter really well, and gently. I tape a thick piece of styrofoam to the the fermenter with a little slot hogged out and slip the probe in. Thermowells generally cause a lot of oscillation because they are often too deep into the beer.

So you wrap the fermenter with a heat mat and then wrap styrofoam over it?

 

[Bobby_M]

So you wrap the fermenter with a heat mat and then wrap styrofoam over it?

No, I wrap the heat pad around the fermenter and it leaves a gap of like 5". In that unheated area, I tape a 3" x 3" block of styrofoam and shove the probe between it and the fermenter. The intent is to hold the probe tight against the fermenter but also shield it from the cold ambient air of the fridge.

 

[RyPA]

No, I wrap the heat pad around the fermenter and it leaves a gap of like 5". In that unheated area, I tape a 3" x 3" block of styrofoam and shove the probe between it and the fermenter. The intent is to hold the probe tight against the fermenter but also shield it from the cold ambient air of the fridge.

Copy. How far off from your target temp do you have hot or cold kick on?

What type of heat pad do you use? Have a link?

 

[Bobby_M]

I have my heat and cool hysterisis set to 1F.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fermwrap.htm

 

[RyPA]

My thermostat has a small plastic nub for a temp probe, which I am not sure how well it will perform when applied to the side of the fermenter.

Does anyone have experience with a flat style sensor? Or maybe I just buy a metal one

https://a.co/d/gslHCJ2

 

[RM-MN]

My thermostat has a small plastic nub for a temp probe, which I am not sure how well it will perform when applied to the side of the fermenter.

Does anyone have experience with a flat style sensor? Or maybe I just buy a metal one

https://a.co/d/gslHCJ2

As long as the plastic nub is touching the fermenter and there is a good amount of insulation over it, that will work fine. One person tested that setup against a thermowell and discovered the difference to be less than half a degree.

 

[RyPA]

I have my heat and cool hysterisis set to 1F.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fermwrap.htm

What are the dimensions of that heat pad?

A few questions:

If i go with a heat pad, can i get the fermenter up to 95F if I run the pad along the walls of the chamber, opposed to wrapping the fermenter itself? I am using an old kegerator fridge.

Is there any harm in getting a 48"x20" pad that outputs 100W (installed on interior walls of fridge)?

Do the heat source and fridge constantly ‘fight’ each other? Or does this not happen since not enough ambient would be there to shift the temp of the beer/probe?

• Target temp is 70
• Heat kicks on to get it to 70, heat turns off, residual ambient hot air brings it to 71
• Cold kicks on to get it to 70, cold source turns off, residual ambient cold air brings it to 69
• Repeat