Midwest supplies

[vogtenstein222]

Has anyone ever used the Midwest supplies brewing starter plus kit?
I'm preparing to do my first brew and have been researching lots of different kits and this one seems like the best bang for the buck, but....mr. Beer seems like a good idea too if you want to make a batch of off tasting coors lite.
Here's a link to the item in question:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewing-starter-plus-kit.html

 

[masterfool101]

Many of us started with this kit. It has just about everything you need. You might wan to add a few things, like some sanitizer (one step is not sanitizer - get some iodophor or star san). Also, a longer stir paddle, so you don't just use a wooden spoon. A hydrometer test tube. A wine thief (a turkey baste will work in a pinch).

But even without those items you can brew beer.

 

[vogtenstein222]

That's great news and I appreciate the forward about the couple of extra accessories. I'm looking at buying that kit along with the northern brewer brewing essentials gravity test kit. Basically I'm starting on a $200 budget (it's all my wife would allow) but once I prove to her I can do this she said I could start spending more on it.
Would you recommend a wood stir paddle or a stainless?

 

[estricklin]

It seems like a good kit, but I still recomend the Monster Brew one to everybody. Saying that though, I order pretty much all my supplies from Midwest. I hate those white lids from midwest!!

You know that's actually a really good pirce on that kit....

 

[RM-MN]

Since I already had a nice 5 gallon pot and a bunch of bottles I bought the basic kit. It got me started and I still have most of it (I broke the hydrometer) but as I learned more about brewing I've added some things. Once I learned that I enjoy the process and wanted to brew more often without rushing my beer I started adding fermenters and I bought an autosiphon to make racking beer to the bottling bucket easier.

I also added a plastic secondary. That was a mistake. I've used it twice to secondary with fruit, twice for another primary and the rest of the time it sits in the corner taking up space and collecting dust. What I'm trying to say is that the nice carboy will be nearly useless. I learned that a long primary gets me clear beer and I can dry hop in the primary too with good results. Having seen the pictures of what can happen when you drop a carboy, I'd never want a glass carboy in my house. The emergency room is just too far away for me to risk the injury.

 

[estricklin]

Since I already had a nice 5 gallon pot and a bunch of bottles I bought the basic kit. It got me started and I still have most of it (I broke the hydrometer) but as I learned more about brewing I've added some things. Once I learned that I enjoy the process and wanted to brew more often without rushing my beer I started adding fermenters and I bought an autosiphon to make racking beer to the bottling bucket easier.

I also added a plastic secondary. That was a mistake. I've used it twice to secondary with fruit, twice for another primary and the rest of the time it sits in the corner taking up space and collecting dust. What I'm trying to say is that the nice carboy will be nearly useless. I learned that a long primary gets me clear beer and I can dry hop in the primary too with good results. Having seen the pictures of what can happen when you drop a carboy, I'd never want a glass carboy in my house. The emergency room is just too far away for me to risk the injury.

I agree about the carboy for sure, I don't mess with e'm. If I need to secondary I can do it in a bucket.

OP, you might want to add an extra lid and airlock to that order, it will help you brew 2 beers at once with your setup and it won't cost much more at all.

 

[vogtenstein222]

So true rookie post but, basically a carboy really isn't necessary at all? I can just do this all with the buckets?

 

[scottab]

Any basic kit will work. I started with a true brew kit. The brewers best kit is good too, even though many would say a carboy is unnecessary and that using a secondary doesn't matter i have had nice results doing the typical 1,2,3, 1 week primary, 2 weeks secondary, 3 weeks bottle. If you do get the carboy go with the better bottle, much lighter and you don't have to worry about breaking a glass bottle

 

[lstewartff]

Many of us started with this kit. It has just about everything you need. You might wan to add a few things, like some sanitizer (one step is not sanitizer - get some iodophor or star san). Also, a longer stir paddle, so you don't just use a wooden spoon. A hydrometer test tube. A wine thief (a turkey baste will work in a pinch).

But even without those items you can brew beer.

One step is a cleaner/sanitizer. It just has to have a long contact time.

 

[estricklin]

Truth be told a 5 gallon pot isn't big enough either. A cheap turkey pot works great.

 

[vogtenstein222]

Truth be told a 5 gallon pot isn't big enough either. A cheap turkey pot works great.

Not totally sure I follow this statement. If my instructions called for 5 gallons, would I not want a 5 gallon brew pot?

 

[Effingbeer]

Not totally sure I follow this statement. If my instructions called for 5 gallons, would I not want a 5 gallon brew pot?

5 gallons is the volume to the tippy top. Not ideal for a full 5 gallon boil(which is often preferred, but not absolutely necessary for extract/partial mash)

 

[vogtenstein222]

5 gallons is the volume to the tippy top. Not ideal for a full 5 gallon boil(which is often preferred, but not absolutely necessary for extract/partial mash)

Would an acceptable move be for me to halve all the ingredients for a 5 gallon batch and just do a 2.5?

 

[histo320]

I also added a plastic secondary. That was a mistake.

Why not just use it as another primary. That way it isn't going to waste. Then you turn a mistake into more Beer. I think everyone (including you) would appreciate that.

 

[estricklin]

Would an acceptable move be for me to halve all the ingredients for a 5 gallon batch and just do a 2.5?

Good thinking but nah, you can do partial and extract in the 5 gallon pot just fine, fill it up with about 4 gallons and you should be safe. I'm sorry I wasn't more clear but what I was getting at is that when (if) you make the move to all grain, you'll be shopping for a new pot. Something in the 8 gallon range for 5 gallon batches. Chances are you'll find a use for the old pot if you ever get to that piont, I did anyway, I use it to hold strike water sometimes.

 

[doubletapbrewing]

For the 5 gallon pot, I am under the impression tat you can make 3 gallons of boiled wort and then add another 2 gallons of water into the primary fermenter. Is that a true statement?

 

[estricklin]

For the 5 gallon pot, I am under the impression tat you can make 3 gallons of boiled wort and then add another 2 gallons of water into the primary fermenter. Is that a true statement?

Yes, or you can do 4 gallons and add one gallon to the fermenter, which is even better.

 

[vogtenstein222]

Good thinking but nah, you can do partial and extract in the 5 gallon pot just fine, fill it up with about 4 gallons and you should be safe. I'm sorry I wasn't more clear but what I was getting at is that when (if) you make the move to all grain, you'll be shopping for a new pot. Something in the 8 gallon range for 5 gallon batches. Chances are you'll find a use for the old pot if you ever get to that piont, I did anyway, I use it to hold strike water sometimes.

So being a noob I got the jist of this one, and understand what you're saying now and it makes perfect sense.
Now I have a couple other questions, with this being my thread im just going to add to the original subject and get some things I'm still dumb to cleared up now...
1) you say "strike water", what exactly is strike water?
2)what exactly is "all-grain", as opposed to say any other style at all?
3) completely unrelated to any topic covered yet, but i keep seeing the phrase "pitch the yeast", is this brewer verbiage for add yeast, or something else?
I don't want to over analyze and certainly plan to make sure this remains fun, but I don't want to walk into this blind either.

 

[masterfool101]

That's great news and I appreciate the forward about the couple of extra accessories. I'm looking at buying that kit along with the northern brewer brewing essentials gravity test kit. Basically I'm starting on a $200 budget (it's all my wife would allow) but once I prove to her I can do this she said I could start spending more on it.
Would you recommend a wood stir paddle or a stainless?

To answer this question, I actually prefer a plastic (poly) paddle. Better than wood OR stainless, and really cheap. your LHBS should have one (btw, if you're new here, LHBS = Local Home Brew Store, and most of us recommend you get to be on good terms with the owners ).

As for what everyone else said:

1) Carboys. I know many people here don't like them. I love them. I have 3, and use them all the time. They're easy to clean (provided you have a good carboy brush, or, as I prefer, one of the cleaners that attach to a hand drill), and they don't scratch easily . . . they also also allow you to see what's going on in your brew. I also use plastic buckets, which are cheaper, and work wonderfully. It's your call.

2) As I think was clarified, you can very easily use a 5 gallon pot for doing 5 gallon batches by simply boiling only 3-4 gallons, and adding the rest as top water. HOWEVER, I will note that MidWest is NOT cheap on shipping . . . SO, if you DO have a LHBS near you, you MIGHT want to price some of these items separately, and find out what it will cost to ship. I have found that, purchased separately, I can buy a 7.5 gallon pot at my LHBS or Kitchen Supply Store for the cost of the 5 gallon pot on MidWest . . . but the kit might be cheaper.

3) One-Step is a Sanitizer? I didn't know that. Honestly, I've always seen it billed as a cleanser. That being said, you probably STILL want to invest in some iodophor or Star San . . . they work better than just about anything else, IMO. Everyone on here seems to swear by Star San . . . but I use iodophor. neither is terribly expensive, and can usually be purchased at your LHBS as cheap as any online market.

If you're really looking to save $$ and get into this thing cheap, which I'm sure your wife would prefer (MINE DID!!), it is very east to go down to your LHBS and get a pair of buckets (at least one for bottling and one for fermenting - secondary isn't required), a 5 - 7.5 gallon pot (I use an aluminum turkey frier, though I do say if you use aluminum, you can't use it for anything EXCEPT your brewing), and everything else in that kit, except the carboys, and you'd probably save about $50, after the cost of shipping is added to the bill.

In the end, this is a great kit and a good way to start a fun hobby. Let us know what you decide, and what beer you brew first!!!

 

[doubletapbrewing]

So being a noob I got the jist of this one, and understand what you're saying now and it makes perfect sense.
Now I have a couple other questions, with this being my thread im just going to add to the original subject and get some things I'm still dumb to cleared up now...
1) you say "strike water", what exactly is strike water?
2)what exactly is "all-grain", as opposed to say any other style at all?
3) completely unrelated to any topic covered yet, but i keep seeing the phrase "pitch the yeast", is this brewer verbiage for add yeast, or something else?
I don't want to over analyze and certainly plan to make sure this remains fun, but I don't want to walk into this blind either.

I am also a newb and am thinking about ordering the same kit. My cousin has brewed a few batches and bought his kit in single pieces. He said it was cheaper. Anyhow I look forward to posting in this thread with all my newbie questions. I am really bad at making big purchases and want to make sure I am getting the best kit available. As for your questions, I believe the strike water is the original water that you heat to the desired temp that will become your wort. All grain is brewing with only malted grain and hops as opposed to partial mash or extract. I also believe that pitching the yeast is just simply adding the yeast to the fermenter.

 

[vogtenstein222]

To answer this question, I actually prefer a plastic (poly) paddle. Better than wood OR stainless, and really cheap. your LHBS should have one (btw, if you're new here, LHBS = Local Home Brew Store, and most of us recommend you get to be on good terms with the owners ).

As for what everyone else said:

1) Carboys. I know many people here don't like them. I love them. I have 3, and use them all the time. They're easy to clean (provided you have a good carboy brush, or, as I prefer, one of the cleaners that attach to a hand drill), and they don't scratch easily . . . they also also allow you to see what's going on in your brew. I also use plastic buckets, which are cheaper, and work wonderfully. It's your call.

2) As I think was clarified, you can very easily use a 5 gallon pot for doing 5 gallon batches by simply boiling only 3-4 gallons, and adding the rest as top water. HOWEVER, I will note that MidWest is NOT cheap on shipping . . . SO, if you DO have a LHBS near you, you MIGHT want to price some of these items separately, and find out what it will cost to ship. I have found that, purchased separately, I can buy a 7.5 gallon pot at my LHBS or Kitchen Supply Store for the cost of the 5 gallon pot on MidWest . . . but the kit might be cheaper.

3) One-Step is a Sanitizer? I didn't know that. Honestly, I've always seen it billed as a cleanser. That being said, you probably STILL want to invest in some iodophor or Star San . . . they work better than just about anything else, IMO. Everyone on here seems to swear by Star San . . . but I use iodophor. neither is terribly expensive, and can usually be purchased at your LHBS as cheap as any online market.

If you're really looking to save $$ and get into this thing cheap, which I'm sure your wife would prefer (MINE DID!!), it is very east to go down to your LHBS and get a pair of buckets (at least one for bottling and one for fermenting - secondary isn't required), a 5 - 7.5 gallon pot (I use an aluminum turkey frier, though I do say if you use aluminum, you can't use it for anything EXCEPT your brewing), and everything else in that kit, except the carboys, and you'd probably save about $50, after the cost of shipping is added to the bill.

In the end, this is a great kit and a good way to start a fun hobby. Let us know what you decide, and what beer you brew first!!!

Thanks for the warning on the shipping costs. I do plan to check out my LHBS when I get back to my home state (well away for the holidays) with a list and cash in hand to see what I can save on by sticking local. I believe in buying local as much as possible anyway.
I really appreciate the advice everyone is offering here and how welcomes I feel as a rookie. Hope to continue to create a friendship with everyone out here.

 

[masterfool101]

So being a noob I got the jist of this one, and understand what you're saying now and it makes perfect sense.
Now I have a couple other questions, with this being my thread im just going to add to the original subject and get some things I'm still dumb to cleared up now...
1) you say "strike water", what exactly is strike water?
2)what exactly is "all-grain", as opposed to say any other style at all?
3) completely unrelated to any topic covered yet, but i keep seeing the phrase "pitch the yeast", is this brewer verbiage for add yeast, or something else?
I don't want to over analyze and certainly plan to make sure this remains fun, but I don't want to walk into this blind either.

1) Strike Water is the hot water added to grains during the mashing process for all grain brewing. It's called "strike water" because it "strikes" the grains . . . as in it hits them directly, as opposed to being added later, when they're already in water.

2) All Grain brewing is just that . . . you use all grains, no extracts. This is opposed to what you're starting out at, which is referred to as extract brewing, meaning you use malt extracts - either Liquid (LME) or dry (DME). Proponents of all grain brewing claim you get much more control of the final product. Proponents of extract brewing claim you can make all the same beers with steeping grains and partial mashes, in half the time, with less mess.

3) Yes, "pitching" is brewer speak for adding yeast to the wort.

You're not going in blind . . . you've got a great forum behind you But I suggest, seriously, that you just get your equipment and start brewing without trying to over analyze everything. Honestly, as long as you SANITIZE EVERYTHING AFTER THE BOIL, you'll make beer. And once you've done a few batches, you can start to get into the real swing of things.

Also, AFTER your first few batches, I highly recommend getting a copy of "How to Brew" by John Palmer.

As they say: RDWHAHB (relax, don't worry, have a home brew)

 

[lstewartff]

I have always had One step sold to me as a Cleaner/Sanitizer (some salemans probably laughing his butt off when I leave, "He thinks that will sanitize HAHA") but I have always wanted to try starsan i think i will buy some the next time i am in my LHBS.

 

[vogtenstein222]

To answer this question, I actually prefer a plastic (poly) paddle. Better than wood OR stainless, and really cheap. your LHBS should have one (btw, if you're new here, LHBS = Local Home Brew Store, and most of us recommend you get to be on good terms with the owners ).

As for what everyone else said:

1) Carboys. I know many people here don't like them. I love them. I have 3, and use them all the time. They're easy to clean (provided you have a good carboy brush, or, as I prefer, one of the cleaners that attach to a hand drill), and they don't scratch easily . . . they also also allow you to see what's going on in your brew. I also use plastic buckets, which are cheaper, and work wonderfully. It's your call.

2) As I think was clarified, you can very easily use a 5 gallon pot for doing 5 gallon batches by simply boiling only 3-4 gallons, and adding the rest as top water. HOWEVER, I will note that MidWest is NOT cheap on shipping . . . SO, if you DO have a LHBS near you, you MIGHT want to price some of these items separately, and find out what it will cost to ship. I have found that, purchased separately, I can buy a 7.5 gallon pot at my LHBS or Kitchen Supply Store for the cost of the 5 gallon pot on MidWest . . . but the kit might be cheaper.

3) One-Step is a Sanitizer? I didn't know that. Honestly, I've always seen it billed as a cleanser. That being said, you probably STILL want to invest in some iodophor or Star San . . . they work better than just about anything else, IMO. Everyone on here seems to swear by Star San . . . but I use iodophor. neither is terribly expensive, and can usually be purchased at your LHBS as cheap as any online market.

If you're really looking to save $$ and get into this thing cheap, which I'm sure your wife would prefer (MINE DID!!), it is very east to go down to your LHBS and get a pair of buckets (at least one for bottling and one for fermenting - secondary isn't required), a 5 - 7.5 gallon pot (I use an aluminum turkey frier, though I do say if you use aluminum, you can't use it for anything EXCEPT your brewing), and everything else in that kit, except the carboys, and you'd probably save about $50, after the cost of shipping is added to the bill.

In the end, this is a great kit and a good way to start a fun hobby. Let us know what you decide, and what beer you brew first!!!

Thanks for the warning on the shipping costs. I'm currently well out of state for the holidays but I've been compiling a list of needs and plan to visit my LHBS when I get home to see where I can save money. I really appreciate how welcoming everyone has been here and can't wait to become friends with more folks here!

 

[estricklin]

Your welcome, sorry I didn't get back in time but the others have given good advice.

Definately get a book on brewing as soon as you can.

 

[whoaru99]

And...just play safe and get the Star San. The small bottle goes a long way.

So far I've made only 2 or 3 gallons of Star San solution for each batch I've brewed and probably could have gotten by with less. I got the 8oz bottle which is good for 40 gallons of solution so that small bottle will cover me for roughly 16 (5 gal) batches of beer.

 

[C-Rider]

And...just play safe and get the Star San. The small bottle goes a long way.

So far I've made only 2 or 3 gallons of Star San solution for each batch I've brewed and probably could have gotten by with less. I got the 8oz bottle which is good for 40 gallons of solution so that small bottle will cover me for roughly 16 (5 gal) batches of beer.

I use the same batch of StarSan for about a month, the toss it and make a new batch. I keep in in a home depot 5 gallon bucket and make about 4 gallons at a time.

 

[Pickettj]

Many of us started with this kit. It has just about everything you need. You might wan to add a few things, like some sanitizer (one step is not sanitizer - get some iodophor or star san). Also, a longer stir paddle, so you don't just use a wooden spoon. A hydrometer test tube. A wine thief (a turkey baste will work in a pinch).

But even without those items you can brew beer.

Funny story, if you contact Midwest, they will tell you that one step IS a sanitizer. Supposedly the manufacturer didn't want to spend the money getting testing/certification done to be able to call it a sanitizer. I said ok, and thanks and prompty bought Star San.

 

[Pickettj]

Has anyone ever used the Midwest supplies brewing starter plus kit?
I'm preparing to do my first brew and have been researching lots of different kits and this one seems like the best bang for the buck, but....mr. Beer seems like a good idea too if you want to make a batch of off tasting coors lite.
Here's a link to the item in question:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewing-starter-plus-kit.html

I just picked up the Midwest intermediate plus kit. I added another bucket for a friend with airlock. So for 20 gallons capacity I spent $280 with shipping. Not bad. But according to these guys I wasted a LOT because it comes with two glass carboys...

 

[Pickettj]

Has anyone ever used the Midwest supplies brewing starter plus kit?
I'm preparing to do my first brew and have been researching lots of different kits and this one seems like the best bang for the buck, but....mr. Beer seems like a good idea too if you want to make a batch of off tasting coors lite.
Here's a link to the item in question:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewing-starter-plus-kit.html

I guess I should include some info too, ehh? My kit was missing several KEY items. First, a thermometer. They don't include anything to monitor your temperatures which is crucial for steeping specialty grains and pitching yeast.

My kit came with a hydrometer but no theif or tube for checking gravity. One of those is a very good idea. The alternative is no reading or checking your levels in the wort which just saying probably made everyone reading this cringe.

My kit came with one temp strip and three potential fermenters. Ill have to buy more strips I guess.

My kit came with a 5 gallon stock pot. I think the SS is about paper thin. One boil and the lid is warped. Very very cheap. Ill be buying a nice new SS pot soon.

If you aren't using a carboy then the funnel they include is worthless since it won't sit on the bucket. It does have a built in filter so that's cool.

You're basically getting the kit I got minus a few items. It's a good kit they just forgot a few things and, in my opinion, really shouldn't be calling this kit "everything you need to start brewing" because it really isn't. The kit was $280 with shipping and I spent another $110 at my LHBS to finish it. Of course $70 of that was my next two DME ingredient kits.

You just missed some killer deals. Midwest had 10% off and free shipping on that kit a week ago. Good luck on your search! You've found a great resource. These guys are all very helpful and knowledgeable.