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Do you mean just the first time, or everytime I brew a batch. I was under the impression that you have to boil the water to get it to temperature before adding the ingredients to make the wort. I am a newb so I am truly wondering.


In case Union didn't make it clear, IF you use an ALUMINUM kettle, you need to boil water in it for a bit (I use 60 mins, he uses 30, which I'm sure is fine) to get an oxide layer PRIOR to brewing your first batch. THIS IS NOT WATER FOR BREWING. You can do this well before brew day. I did it the day I got my kettle, and didn't brew for a week after (damn work! kept me from brewing!!).

Once you do this, you shouldn't ever have to do it again, so long as you clean your pot right after you use it with some PBW (or similar, I never use regular soap on a brew kettle), and make sure (as union noted) to NOT scrub off the oxide layer (you'll be able to tell if you did it . . . there shouldn't be any shiny parts, it should be a dull gray). I just use hot water, PBW, and a terry cloth kitchen towel to clean my kettle. If you do it right after you brew, it's very quick and easy.

You won't have to sanitize your pot again.

Once you brew, THAT Is when you get your water up to 150 - 165 to steep your grains (or whatever you like - I know a couple of brewers who drop the grains in at about 100 degrees, and just take them out when the temp hits 170, which takes their stovetop about 30 mins to reach).
 
Would this be worthwhile?
I don't have propane running in my house but if I were to go get a propane tank like for a grill....would that last me a while?
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Brinkmann-30-qt-Turkey-Fryer/202038907

This is the exact product I use for my brewing. Works like a charm!

I also use a 5lb propane tank (like one that would attach to a grill). You can buy them empty cheap at Costco, then just get them filled, or you can buy a full one from many retailers.
 
masterfool101 said:
This is the exact product I use for my brewing. Works like a charm!

I also use a 5lb propane tank (like one that would attach to a grill). You can buy them empty cheap at Costco, then just get them filled, or you can buy a full one from many retailers.

I always enjoy it when I read "this is what I use" from experienced brewers!
 
LOL. Don't call me experienced yet . . . I've only been doing this about a year, and I've only got about a dozen brews under my belt . . . so I'm not too far from being a noob myself. I just read a lot, and talk to the owners of my LHBS a lot. I FEEL like I know more than I probably do :)
 
masterfool101 said:
LOL. Don't call me experienced yet . . . I've only been doing this about a year, and I've only got about a dozen brews under my belt . . . so I'm not too far from being a noob myself. I just read a lot, and talk to the owners of my LHBS a lot. I FEEL like I know more than I probably do :)

I'm still a week or so away from even buying my first setup soooo you're far more experience than I am.
 
This is the exact product I use for my brewing. Works like a charm!

I also use a 5lb propane tank (like one that would attach to a grill). You can buy them empty cheap at Costco, then just get them filled, or you can buy a full one from many retailers.

Im going to go ahead and piggyback on this thread.

For Homebrewing purposes is there any difference because a turkey fryer setup, and just buying a SS pot and propane burner?

At what point is an electric (coil) stove not going to cut it for homebrewing?

I just got the Midwest supplies starter kit for Christmas. So obviously I need a pot to brew with, and was just trying to sort out which way to go.
(pot and stove vs turkey fryer vs pot and burner)

Thanks!!
 
I've done full boils on the stove and I prefer the propane burner much better. Just get the turkey fryer setup, it will have the burner and a good aluminum pot.

Stove top just doesn't quite throw enough heat out for my likings. Plus the propane burner is MUCH faster.
 
What is the general recommendation between oxygen barrier or standard caps? Is one truly better than the other? If so, why?
 
I've used both but the reason why I quit using the 02 barrier caps were because you still have to sanitize them, and when you dunk e'm in the sanitizer they lose a lot of effectiveness.
 
The biggest difference you will note will be the time.

When I was boiling only 3 gallons in a 4 gallon pot on my stovetop, it was taking me about 45 minutes to achieve boil (I have a gas stove, with an 18,000 BTU burner).

When I borrowed a 5.5 gallon pot from a friend, and tried to do 4.5 gallons on my stovetop, it was almost 70 minutes to get to a boil, and I never felt like I had a "good" boil . . . it seemed weak.

So when I wanted to upgrade my own pot, I spoke to my LHBS, and they recommended a turkey frier, because it's (a) cheap (b) has a 7.5 gallon kettle, and (c) 45,000 BTU's. I can bring the 5.5 gallons I use for brewing to a boil in under 30 minutes (obviously, I take longer due to steeping grains, etc.)

I see nothing wrong with buying a good SS pot and propane burner . .. in some respects, as long as you've got the BTUs you need to boil quickly, it might be a better option. SS is certainly more forgiving than aluminum, and easier to clean. However, it will probably cost you more than the turkey frier. I was concerned about cost, and was able to pick up the turkey frier for only $40 at Home Depot. A decent SS pot alone would have cost me more than that . . .
 
What is the general recommendation between oxygen barrier or standard caps? Is one truly better than the other? If so, why?

I have heard, but can not confirm, that the only time you truly need an oxygen barrier cap is when you're doing LONG bottle conditioning (meaning over 6 months). This is generally only done with a few brew styles (such as Belgian Tripple).
 
Okay so I keep seeing never use it for anything but beer after you use it for that once, but what if say, my wife's folks had one they used this year at thanksgiving for turkey and are willing to GIVE me free, would I be okay to do that if I boil the hell out of it, or should I just spend the money on brand spankin new?
 
masterfool101 said:
I have heard, but can not confirm, that the only time you truly need an oxygen barrier cap is when you're doing LONG bottle conditioning (meaning over 6 months). This is generally only done with a few brew styles (such as Belgian Tripple).

Thanks I'm generally seein the o2 barriers aren't truly worth the extra 4 a bag or so.
 
Okay so I keep seeing never use it for anything but beer after you use it for that once, but what if say, my wife's folks had one they used this year at thanksgiving for turkey and are willing to GIVE me free, would I be okay to do that if I boil the hell out of it, or should I just spend the money on brand spankin new?

When you set up the aluminum pot for brewing you boil water in it to make a thicker oxide layer to avoid a metallic flavor to your beer so if you wanted to use it for something else you would scour that layer off and when you wanted to make beer again you would have to boil water to reestablish the oxide layer. That's the main reason not to go from beer to something else.

If you are given a turkey fryer pot you need to clean it well to get all the oil off (oil will kill the head on your beer) and then boil water in it before using it for beer. No problem, just takes some cleaning.
 
Okay so I keep seeing never use it for anything but beer after you use it for that once, but what if say, my wife's folks had one they used this year at thanksgiving for turkey and are willing to GIVE me free, would I be okay to do that if I boil the hell out of it, or should I just spend the money on brand spankin new?

Buy it new. My understanding of aluminum pots is thus: If it's been used for frying a turkey, it's not good for beer anymore. This is because aluminum is more porous than SS, so it's basically impossible to get the oil out of the pot once it's used to fry something. I guess you could try long term boiling with some PBW, but why risk it when it's so cheap to get a new one.

That being said, maybe you can just buy the pot, if they have the burner and propane tank . . . you could probably invest in a good 30 quart stainless pot (make sure it fits the frier!) for the same cost as the complete setup!
 
If you are given a turkey fryer pot you need to clean it well to get all the oil off (oil will kill the head on your beer) and then boil water in it before using it for beer. No problem, just takes some cleaning.

This might be viable . . . what would you use for cleaning? . . . it would have to be high temperature, or very heavy duty . . . A long term soak with many cleansers is likely to cause pitting in aluminum . . .
 
masterfool101 said:
This might be viable . . . what would you use for cleaning? . . . it would have to be high temperature, or very heavy duty . . . A long term soak with many cleansers is likely to cause pitting in aluminum . . .

At that rate would I fare well to do a longer term clean on SS? They have a 7.5 gallon SS pot with a stand with 45,000 BTUs that they've only used once and cleaned thoroughly right after use. It's just hard to pass that up if it's doable, but I'm still not against just buying a new pot and taking the burner off their hands, money saved though yknow?
 
masterfool101 said:
This might be viable . . . what would you use for cleaning? . . . it would have to be high temperature, or very heavy duty . . . A long term soak with many cleansers is likely to cause pitting in aluminum . . .

I did a long term soak of water and Star San in my aluminum pot and had no pitting..
 
adamjackson said:
That's wha I started with minus the bottles since I jumped right into kegging. You'll love it.

How much did jumping into kegging run you? That's the only other thing I havent decided if I want to do/can afford to do. Just something about carbing in bottle has me a bit weirded out still.
Also to everyone else following my wild ass adventure, I just locked down a brand new Outdoor Classic 30 qt/55000 BTU pot for $50. Stoked as all get out on that.
 
vogtenstein222 said:
At that rate would I fare well to do a longer term clean on SS? They have a 7.5 gallon SS pot with a stand with 45,000 BTUs that they've only used once and cleaned thoroughly right after use. It's just hard to pass that up if it's doable, but I'm still not against just buying a new pot and taking the burner off their hands, money saved though yknow?

If its SS then you're good to go!!! It cleans thoroughly. Still, you may wish to do a hot scrub with some PBW water prior to brewing just to get rid of potential residuals.
 
BrewKid said:
I did a long term soak of water and Star San in my aluminum pot and had no pitting..

Hmmm ... Never thought of using star san as a cleanser .... I ha an issue once leaving PBW in an aluminum pot overnight ... Wasn't pretty ...
 
Okay so I keep seeing never use it for anything but beer after you use it for that once, but what if say, my wife's folks had one they used this year at thanksgiving for turkey and are willing to GIVE me free, would I be okay to do that if I boil the hell out of it, or should I just spend the money on brand spankin new?

This is how I got my brew pot. I had 2 of e'm, one had only been used a few times to fry a turkey, the other...well it's fried 50 turkeys I guess by now. Anyway I used dawn and some SOS pads on it, got it sparkling clean and then boiled regular tap water for a bit.
 
vogtenstein222 said:
What exactly is PBW? When and where does it get used?

PBW = Powdered Brewer's Wash. It is soap, essentially, designed for cleaning brewing equipment. There are a number of similar products out there - B-bright, Straight A, Easy Clean - but PBW is the most popular. Your LHBS will have it. Or it can be ordered from any online brewer's supply.

Fact is, you don't generally wan to use regular dish soap on brewing equipment. It isn't as effective, leaves a residue, and from what I understand, can ruin head retention in a beer.

Oh, and for the record, I wouldn't try to obtain it used ;) ;p
 
How much did jumping into kegging run you? That's the only other thing I havent decided if I want to do/can afford to do. Just something about carbing in bottle has me a bit weirded out still.
Also to everyone else following my wild ass adventure, I just locked down a brand new Outdoor Classic 30 qt/55000 BTU pot for $50. Stoked as all get out on that.

Those who keg wish they had done it earlier. Those that bottle think kegging would be cool but learning the system and spending the money + making a kegerator is a lot of extra time especially if you're new to the hobby.

I have a lot of local breweries like Harpoon, Hill Farmstead and others that sell kegs so my logic is that if I abandon homebrewing, I can just convert to Sankey connectors and have my favorite beer on tap!

=====

Here's what I started with

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brew-logic-quadruple-tap-draft-system-with-4-way-gas-manifold.html

Chose 5Pound CO2 Tank which fits in the fridge.
Switched the single CO2 regulator out for a dual regulator so I could serve Soda at a different PSI as my beer.

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/double-co2-regulator.html

Then I bought some faucets for $30ish a piece and a crap load of cable + line cleaner.

Finally, I spent $350 on a full-size fridge that can hold 4 pepsi cans that already had the holes drilled in the front door...I store hops in the freezer and kegs below.

Here's my setup:

http://adam-jackson.net/beer/homebrewing-kegging-my-beers-part-2/

======

There's a kegging section on this site where guys do it much cheaper and they are experts..I'm still new at this.

Naturally, getting a dorm fridge that holds 2 kegs is much cheaper but having 4 beers on tap + 5 carboys fermenting + 2 kegs of beer ready to be tapped is a great pipeline to have...if I suffer some life altering injury, I have 55 gallons of beer ready to be on tap and serving within 24 hours of kegging it using the force carb method whereas bottling and you need at least 3 weeks from the fermentation ending to waiting on bottles to carbonate.
 
adamjackson said:
Those who keg wish they had done it earlier. Those that bottle think kegging would be cool but learning the system and spending the money + making a kegerator is a lot of extra time especially if you're new to the hobby.

I have a lot of local breweries like Harpoon, Hill Farmstead and others that sell kegs so my logic is that if I abandon homebrewing, I can just convert to Sankey connectors and have my favorite beer on tap!

=====

Here's what I started with

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brew-logic-quadruple-tap-draft-system-with-4-way-gas-manifold.html

Chose 5Pound CO2 Tank which fits in the fridge.
Switched the single CO2 regulator out for a dual regulator so I could serve Soda at a different PSI as my beer.

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/double-co2-regulator.html

Then I bought some faucets for $30ish a piece and a crap load of cable + line cleaner.

Finally, I spent $350 on a full-size fridge that can hold 4 pepsi cans that already had the holes drilled in the front door...I store hops in the freezer and kegs below.

Here's my setup:

http://adam-jackson.net/beer/homebrewing-kegging-my-beers-part-2/

======

There's a kegging section on this site where guys do it much cheaper and they are experts..I'm still new at this.

Naturally, getting a dorm fridge that holds 2 kegs is much cheaper but having 4 beers on tap + 5 carboys fermenting + 2 kegs of beer ready to be tapped is a great pipeline to have...if I suffer some life altering injury, I have 55 gallons of beer ready to be on tap and serving within 24 hours of kegging it using the force carb method whereas bottling and you need at least 3 weeks from the fermentation ending to waiting on bottles to carbonate.

So basically it's the best way to do it but I need to save some money or not do it till tax season is what I'm getting out of this?
 
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