I looked it up. A half pound of gran sugar is 1 1/8th cup of sugar.
Would you use honey or sugar?
Me. Beer kit + more.
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I looked it up. A half pound of gran sugar is 1 1/8th cup of sugar.
Would you use honey or sugar?
Seems like honey would be a lot harder. But it makes sense.
Did you see my ingredients for my next batch? Is there a measurement app for brewing? Cooking grains? Cooking hops?
"Did you see my ingredients for my next batch? Is there a measurement app for brewing? Cooking grains? Cooking hops?"
I'm not following. A measurement app? Cooking grains? Cooking hops? Can you explain in more detail?
I'm not following. A measurement app? Cooking grains? Cooking hops? Can you explain in more detail?
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
See that's the thing. It didn't come with a list of direction.
I have all this good stuff but I don't not know where to start
OK. It says specialty grains. I assume it's all for steeping.
Is that 6 lbs of extract in the bottle?
Is that 4.5% AA's on the Tettnang and 3.8% AA's on the Saphir?
What style is this supposed to be?
That's certainly way too much priming sugar for 5 gals.
Is that 6 lbs of extract in the bottle?
Is that 4.5% AA's on the Tettnang and 3.8% AA's on the Saphir?
What style is this supposed to be?
That's certainly way too much priming sugar for 5 gals.
Found their site but couldn't find the kit. I called their number and asked what the hops schedule for it is and was told to use the Saphir @ 6o mins and the Tettnang @ 15 mins. It comes with 1 lb of grains.
What you'll do is put those grains in the grain bag. Heat up about 1.5-2 qts of water to 165* and then turn down the heat to a lower setting. Drop the grains in and watch the temp. Steep it like a tea bag for 20-30 mins. While this is going on you'll have your brew pot heating up about 4 gals of water, which you want to boil. I like to keep 2 pint glasses in the microwave and heat them for about 6 mins to use to pour over the grain bag, which will be in a colander over your brew pot. When each cup has been emptied I use the base to squeeze the grain bag. Get it all!
Add your steeped wort water to the brew pot and wait until it boils. When it does set a timer for 45 mins and add the Saphir hops. I prefer a muslin hop sack, but I didn't see any in your pic unless it's in with the grain bag. When the timer goes off set it for 15 mins and add the Tettnang hops for that last 15 mins. When the timer goes off turn off the heat and move the pot. Pour in your bottle of LME (Liquid Malt Extract) and stir like a madman! Try to scrape out as much of the extract as you can. You can even use a measuring cup to pour hot wort in there and swirl gently. It'll be VERY hot though.
Take your brew pot to the sink and stop it up and fill with cold tap water. Set th spot in there and stir for 10 mins or so. Drain and repeat a couple of times. I like to refrigerate 2 gals of tap water for the last cool down session, and add a couple of ice trays worth of ice to help. Then pour this into the fermentor you have. Stir like a madman for about 20 mins to aerate it. I use a whisk and do it for maybe 7 mins.
Then set this into a storage bin with cold water and maintain a mid 60's temp for your beer. If you do not have a fermometer (fish tank thermometer) than you can watch the temp of the water and aim for about 60* as it'll be about 5* cooler than the beer.
Give it about 3 weeks and check the gravity with a hydrometer. If it's close to the FG #'s (low 1.010 or so) then you should be ready to bottle.
Do you have bottling gear, hydrometer, floating thermometer, fermometer, hops bags (muslin), bucket, airlock, kitchen scale, colander, tongs?
What you'll do is put those grains in the grain bag. Heat up about 1.5-2 qts of water to 165* and then turn down the heat to a lower setting. Drop the grains in and watch the temp. Steep it like a tea bag for 20-30 mins. While this is going on you'll have your brew pot heating up about 4 gals of water, which you want to boil. I like to keep 2 pint glasses in the microwave and heat them for about 6 mins to use to pour over the grain bag, which will be in a colander over your brew pot. When each cup has been emptied I use the base to squeeze the grain bag. Get it all!
Add your steeped wort water to the brew pot and wait until it boils. When it does set a timer for 45 mins and add the Saphir hops. I prefer a muslin hop sack, but I didn't see any in your pic unless it's in with the grain bag. When the timer goes off set it for 15 mins and add the Tettnang hops for that last 15 mins. When the timer goes off turn off the heat and move the pot. Pour in your bottle of LME (Liquid Malt Extract) and stir like a madman! Try to scrape out as much of the extract as you can. You can even use a measuring cup to pour hot wort in there and swirl gently. It'll be VERY hot though.
Take your brew pot to the sink and stop it up and fill with cold tap water. Set th spot in there and stir for 10 mins or so. Drain and repeat a couple of times. I like to refrigerate 2 gals of tap water for the last cool down session, and add a couple of ice trays worth of ice to help. Then pour this into the fermentor you have. Stir like a madman for about 20 mins to aerate it. I use a whisk and do it for maybe 7 mins.
Then set this into a storage bin with cold water and maintain a mid 60's temp for your beer. If you do not have a fermometer (fish tank thermometer) than you can watch the temp of the water and aim for about 60* as it'll be about 5* cooler than the beer.
Give it about 3 weeks and check the gravity with a hydrometer. If it's close to the FG #'s (low 1.010 or so) then you should be ready to bottle.
Do you have bottling gear, hydrometer, floating thermometer, fermometer, hops bags (muslin), bucket, airlock, kitchen scale, colander, tongs?
You want to maintain a temp of 150-160* while steeping.
Do you have a long spoon too? A brew pot?
After you pour your beer into the fermentor you top it off with water to the 5 gal mark.
What I have done is used a pitcher to fill a bucket to about 4 gals and turn the lights off, use a flashlight to see the water line and mark it with a permanent marker. Continue 1/2 gal at a time until you have about 3-4 inches left from the top. You need headspace for the krausen to fill.
Do you have a long spoon too? A brew pot?
After you pour your beer into the fermentor you top it off with water to the 5 gal mark.
What I have done is used a pitcher to fill a bucket to about 4 gals and turn the lights off, use a flashlight to see the water line and mark it with a permanent marker. Continue 1/2 gal at a time until you have about 3-4 inches left from the top. You need headspace for the krausen to fill.
I have bottling gear(bottles/caps/capper) i have hop bags. I bought the airlock and i have a bucket. I also bought a spigot. Im buying a fermometer too. Everything else i dont have.
I think i might have to buy a bigger brew pot and a longer spoon.
Get at least a 5 gal pot. Bigger is better though. A looong spoon of plastic for the buckets. A reusable grain bag.
It's also good to have 2 hydrometers and 2 thermometers as they'll eventually break. It's good to have some backup hops (you'll eventually figure out which ones you like most), dry yeast, DME, bottle caps and muslin bags.
I like a whisk for aerating. A large metal colander. Star San or other sanitizer.
Most of my gear is dedicated to brewing. Gotta be stellar clean.
It's also good to have 2 hydrometers and 2 thermometers as they'll eventually break. It's good to have some backup hops (you'll eventually figure out which ones you like most), dry yeast, DME, bottle caps and muslin bags.
I like a whisk for aerating. A large metal colander. Star San or other sanitizer.
Most of my gear is dedicated to brewing. Gotta be stellar clean.
I prefer an aluminum pot as it heats/cools faster and is lighter than stainless.
It's been said to fill a 5 gal with 4 gals of water and boil for an hour. You can figure out your boil off rate (how much water evaporated) and it builds an oxide barrier for those concerned with aluminum leeching into the beer.
It's been said to fill a 5 gal with 4 gals of water and boil for an hour. You can figure out your boil off rate (how much water evaporated) and it builds an oxide barrier for those concerned with aluminum leeching into the beer.
Also have a storage bin with water and several large water bottles frozen in the freezer. I use 2 liter soda bottles and 2 qt juice bottles, along with several 20 oz to 1 liter bottles. They take sooooo long to freeze! But I also will do 3 brews sometimes in 2 tubs.
At first, I tried to meticulously try to maintain that temp range, but became convinced after talking to some more experienced brewers that it's not really necessary when you're just steeping. If I happen to do extract/steeping now (which I'll still do when making a graff cider), I just heat the water to 160*F with the bag in there, turn off the heat, cover and let sit for 30 minutes. Works just fine and is much less stressful.
Good start!
I'm concerned your Mr Beer fermentor is above it's temp range. Many people will put it in a cake pan with water and drape a towel over it, and rotate small frozen water bottles to keep the fermentor in the mid 60's.
I'm concerned your Mr Beer fermentor is above it's temp range. Many people will put it in a cake pan with water and drape a towel over it, and rotate small frozen water bottles to keep the fermentor in the mid 60's.
The S style of airlock won't work with a blowoff tube, but it might allow for the tube to be pushed through the stopper. But if the volume and gravity are kept lower, along with the temp you ought to be OK.
Devilsnight
Well-Known Member
Are you fermenting in the bucket or the lbk?? confused... The bucket looks like a good fermentor. then drain out into the Mr. beer keg to bottle. I made one batch in the keg, now it's my bottling bucket!
Its sitting in my hallway closet head level. never touched. My house stays about 62 to 68 all day.
Im still debating if i should add some sugar or honey to it on friday..
I will be fermenting out of the bucket. Im going to cook my oktoberfest up tonight i think if i have time.
Im confused though. rodwha says the same thing about bringing from the fermenting bucket to the keg? but i honestly do not see a reason why? i was going to go from the fermenting kegs (bucket and mr beer keg) straight to the bottles. Let them sit for about two weeks.
am I missing something here?
ericbw
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Possibly. If you're using the carbonation drops (the little candies), you add them to each bottle, then add beer to the bottle. It can be straight from the fermenter (but keep reading, I'll come back to that). Adding sugar at bottling is called "priming."
To "batch prime," you would move the beer from the fermenter to a bottling bucket (or the keg) with a sugar solution that will prime all of the beer at once rather than each bottle individually. Not necessary if you're "bottle priming" with sugar or drops in each bottle.
HOWEVER (I said I would come back to it), it probably makes sense to transfer from the fermenter and leave behind the trub, then bottle from the second container. It's easier to get less sediment into the bottles that way because.
You don't HAVE to do it that way, but I think it's easier to do it cleanly if you do.
mjwj12
When I bottle from my Mr. Beer keg, I do not have the carbonation drops, so I mix 1c water with 6tbsp sugar, and put that into my "bottling bucket", siphon the beer out of the Mr. Beer container into the bucket (no splashing) leaving all the yeast and junk behind. Then from the bucket into the bottles, again no splashing.
When I bottle from my Mr. Beer keg, I do not have the carbonation drops, so I mix 1c water with 6tbsp sugar, and put that into my "bottling bucket", siphon the beer out of the Mr. Beer container into the bucket (no splashing) leaving all the yeast and junk behind. Then from the bucket into the bottles, again no splashing.
