7 lbs Light Malt Extract
1/2 lb Crystal 80 L Malt
1/2 lb Munich Malt
1/2 lb CaraHell Malt
1/2 lb Melanoidin Malt
1/2 lb Caravienne Malt
1 1/2 oz Chinook Hops 20 HBUs(Boiling)
2 oz Cascade Hops(flavor: 2 min)
Wyeast American Ale
Add cracked Crystal, Munich, Carahell, Melanoidin, and Caravienne Malts to 2 gals of cold water and bring to boil. When the boiling starts, remove the grain. Add the Light Malt Extract then bring to a boil again. Add 1 1/2 oz of Chinook hops. Boil for 58 mins. Add 2 oz of Cascade hops and boil for two minutes. Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. Add the wort to the fermenter with cold water to make 5 gals. Add yeast when the temp reaches 70º.
Those instructions are very poor- do NOT follow them!
Thats what I was wondering. Would leaving them in until boil extract tannins from the specialty grains creating some off flavors? Also, should I pay attention to PH levels during steeping?
I usually just go with the montra "if my tap water is good enough to drink, its good enough to brew with"
It's not just tannin extraction- you have Munich malt in there, which must be mashed. By not holding it at under 160 for 45-60 minutes, you won't get conversion.
Put your grains together, in a bag if you have a big grain bag, and keep them in there loosely. Use 1-2 quarts of water per pound of grain. Bring that up to 160-163 (a good thermometer is crucial!) and add the grains and stir well. Check to make sure it's 150-155 and hold there for 1 hour. After 1 hour, lift up the grainbag into a big strainer over your brewpot and pour 170 degree water over it, rinsing the grains well, up to your boil volume. THEN discard the grains and proceed with the boil.
And yes, pH is important but you don't have to worry about it right now. You will get conversion with the technique listed above.