Maris Otter

[C-Rider]

Was reading a thread about 2 Row vs Maris Otter and then went to look at BeerSmith's list of grains. I couldn't find Maris Otter. There is a 2 Row listed as coming from the United Kingdom. Would that be the same?

I can buy Maris Otter here in Hawai`i but how do I indicate it in BeerSmith?

 

[bierhaus15]

Essentially. Not the same in reality, but beersmith doesn't care. You can just adjust the color closer to 4L if you want it to be more accurate for recipe calculation, or there should be a "new" button under add grains/extract.

 

[C-Rider]

Essentially. Not the same in reality, but beersmith doesn't care. You can just adjust the color closer to 4L if you want it to be more accurate for recipe calculation, or there should be a "new" button under add grains/extract.

Mahalo

 

[AnthonyCB]

I was pretty sure that Beersmith has MO in it. Under File->Add-ons you can download and install ingredients from various maltsters including Crisp and Thomas Fawcett both of which include MO malt. Are you using version 1 or version 2 of Beersmith?

 

[Pie_Man]

I'm using beermsmith2 and Marris Otter is listed in my version. It's listed as Pale Malt, Marris Otter (3 SRM).

 

[C-Rider]

I'm using beermsmith2 and Marris Otter is listed in my version. It's listed as Pale Malt, Marris Otter (3 SRM).

Ah, Ha! Many mahalos, found it.

 

[Pie_Man]

Glad you found it

Now you got to let us know what you end up brewing with it. I personally used Maris Otter for the first time this weekend in a milk stout, looking forward to the end result.

 

[inhousebrew]

I use Beersmith as well and whenever I want a grain that isn't in there I just pick something similar, copy and paste it, then change the new version to the name and color of what I'm looking for. I also copy a description from Northern Brewer (where I buy all my grain) and paste it in there and Boom, new grain in the ingredient list.

 

[Golddiggie]

Whenever I do a group grain buy, and get a new malt (or something not already in BeerSmith) I get a spec sheet on it. I then enter it's characteristics into BeerSmith for future use. IMO, the online vendors should be able to provide you with the same information. You can also check the BeerSmith site for updated data sets for things. Under their "Support" section there's the "Add-ons" which has "View our online database of grains, hops, yeast and brewing water."

IMO, it's worth checking from time to time, or when you get something not previously listed.

 

[C-Rider]

Glad you found it

Now you got to let us know what you end up brewing with it. I personally used Maris Otter for the first time this weekend in a milk stout, looking forward to the end result.

I was reading a few posts about MO and English ales and though I might try to sub some or all in my next English ale. I've been using American 2 Row as it only cost $1.70 a pound here on O`ahu while ALL other grains on island are now $2.50 a pound.

When I do a German style I've always used German grain/hops/yeast. Even when I make up a German style like my Kaiser Imperial IPA. :0)

 

[inhousebrew]

MO>Domestic 2 Row. Just my opinion

 

[Qhrumphf]

I was reading a few posts about MO and English ales and though I might try to sub some or all in my next English ale. I've been using American 2 Row as it only cost $1.70 a pound here on O`ahu while ALL other grains on island are now $2.50 a pound.

When I do a German style I've always used German grain/hops/yeast. Even when I make up a German style like my Kaiser Imperial IPA. :0)

In between the cost of American 2-row and MO is American Pale Ale malt. Briess, Rahr, and Great Western all make it (probably other maltsters too). I did a side by side Bitter with Crisp MO vs. Briess Pale Ale to test it out. There are a lot of differences, but also a lot of similarities. My end assessment was that I'm sticking with MO for English beers, but I've started using the Pale Ale as a base in American beers, since it adds a little extra toasty malt character that regular 2-row lacks.

 

[Golddiggie]

I was reading a few posts about MO and English ales and though I might try to sub some or all in my next English ale. I've been using American 2 Row as it only cost $1.70 a pound here on O`ahu while ALL other grains on island are now $2.50 a pound.

When I do a German style I've always used German grain/hops/yeast. Even when I make up a German style like my Kaiser Imperial IPA. :0)

Since I'm brewing styles from the British Isles, I use MO and UK 2 row (pale ale malt) for my base in everything. I also use all UK hops and yeast strains. I keep a good supply of all that on hand at all times.

IMO, if you're going to brew something that's supposed to be from a region (like an ESB), then you should [at the very least] use hops, yeast and base malts from that region. A small amount of grist from someplace else is ok, but the majority should be from that region.

 

[Gameface]

In between the cost of American 2-row and MO is American Pale Ale malt. Briess, Rahr, and Great Western all make it (probably other maltsters too). I did a side by side Bitter with Crisp MO vs. Briess Pale Ale to test it out. There are a lot of differences, but also a lot of similarities. My end assessment was that I'm sticking with MO for English beers, but I've started using the Pale Ale as a base in American beers, since it adds a little extra toasty malt character that regular 2-row lacks.

I've been considering doing the same thing. Partially because I have decided to focus a lot on English styles (they've been my faves so far) but also because it seems easier from an inventory standpoint to just use MO instead of buying sacks of both. Hopefully MO won't be a detriment in my quest to get better at brewing IPAs. I figure it'll probably be a wash at the end of the day if not better with MO.

 

[Qhrumphf]

I've been considering doing the same thing. Partially because I have decided to focus a lot on English styles (they've been my faves so far) but also because it seems easier from an inventory standpoint to just use MO instead of buying sacks of both. Hopefully MO won't be a detriment in my quest to get better at brewing IPAs. I figure it'll probably be a wash at the end of the day if not better with MO.

I'd always used MO in my English beers. I wasn't aware that Pale Ale malt was any different than 2-row or even really existed until a few months ago. Heard it was supposed to be like the English malts, but it's substantially cheaper. Northern Brewer has 2-row for 1.25/lb pound, where MO runs something 1.75/lb, and the Pale Ale is 1.50/lb (they're slightly more expensive at my LHBS, but the ratios are roughly the same). So it's a noteworthy cost decrease. That's why I tried the experiment I did, and decided that the flavor differences outweigh the savings for English beers, but with the extra character it adds it's worth the extra price to use it in American beers.

 

[C-Rider]

Here on O`ahu US 2 Row is $1.75 a lb. Every other grain is $2.50 a lb. Shipping to Hawai`i is a *****.

 

[Golddiggie]

No bulk purchase options for you? I would expect it to be cheaper by the sack.

 

[C-Rider]

No bulk purchase options for you? I would expect it to be cheaper by the sack.

Never really tried. Can't imagine shipping for 50 lbs of anything.

 

[Beer-lord]

I'm thinking of a MO SMaSH.....11 lbs of MO with 3 oz centennial (60, 20, 5) and and oz or 2 dry hopped. I've never done an all MO before. Been having it laying around for about a month so I figured I should use it but want to know what it's like before I use it with anything else.

 

[unionrdr]

The pm cascade pale ale kit I brewed from midwest uses;
4lb of American 2 row
.5lb of crystal 10L
.5lb of carapils
I'm thinking to make a pm version of my extract APA's I'll use;
2lb of American 2 row-Rahr doesn't need the D rest
2lbs of mariss otter
.5lb of crystal 40L to get a bit more color & UK flavor
4lbs of Munton's plain light DME in place of the 3.3lb od Breisse gold LME.
And NZ hops,at least 2 ounces.