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LaramieKing

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Im building an all grain rig, I want to go electric so I can brew indoors (I have a spare bedroom to turn into a brewery so why not) im using 5500w elements in keggles, will these controllers work for me? I need to build this as cheap as possible but still want it to function properly....
Thanks in advance

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Im building an all grain rig, I want to go electric so I can brew indoors (I have a spare bedroom to turn into a brewery so why not) im using 5500w elements in keggles, will these controllers work for me? I need to build this as cheap as possible but still want it to function properly....
Thanks in advance

you want the big one advertised for 10,000w and even those have been reported to burn up fast by a couple members here but yes they do work. the more reliable way to go would be an ssvr and potentiometer setup which you can find cheap on amazon or ebay.
 
Do you have a link?

no not off the top of my head sorry, but there are tons of threads here with links this question gets asked every other day... you can use the search function here to search "cheap boil control" or simple controller....

the most accurate setup would be a cheap pid like the mypin "TD4" and a pt100, ssr and heatsink (the complete setup will run you just under $40) but you would have control to the degree plus a manual % mode for the element and the alarm feature so you can set the pid to climb to say 207degrees and go clean your carboy or do dishes and have the alarm go off when it reaches 207 degrees and stops so you dont have to worry about a boilover...

this is the pid controller I'm talking about, I use three of them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231206228037?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

heres a link to an ssvr setup though you can find them for less...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40A-SSVR-w-...022?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed3483b86

BTW I also brew in a spare bedroom... really wish I had a basement though...
 
If you have a pid you dont need the pot right?

correct as long as the pid has manual mode to keep a steady boil (the one I linked above does) once you enter manual mode you just enter a number (example 75% would be like having the knob at 75% rotation) so the element is on for .75 seconds every second (depending on how the pid settings are) otherwise it turns on slower in auto mode and the boil starts and stops each time...
 
And any 40a ssr with a heat sink will work? With these controllers? A pid and ssr are basically all I need right? I have electronics experience but I know nothing about these pid controllers and how they work...im assuming somewhat like a digital potiniameter?
 
Theres different types of thermoprobes right? What are the differences and whats best for our application?
 

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