manifold help/question

[hayabusa]

I built my manifold last night, it is 1/2" OD and I used slip-on 3/8th T and elbows to make the connections. For obvious reasons (cleaning) I don't want to solder the unions together but with minimal movement the manifold comes apart. I was thinking of using some SS hose clamps to keep everything together... anyone else have 'loose' manifold connections? I just don't want to risk hitting it with my paddle and having it come undone under 15lbs of grain. Maybe some type of a gasket or oring on the pipe to keep it snug in the fitting?

 

[missing link]

You can slit some of the fittings and use hose clamps, or you can solder some of the fittings but leave enough unsoldered that it can still be cleaned if needed.

 

[Bokonon]

If your crimp the ends with some pliers just a bit they will fit a little more snug

 

[springer]

just take a small drift pin punch and dimple the fitting while its together just a few on each and it will snug them up.

 

[hayabusa]

all great ideas - thanks guys.

 

[harley03]

Here is a picture of the manifold I built. You can just solder the ends and still be able to take it apart and clean it. I have used this design for many batches with no problems in cleaning or efficiency.
I noticed that mine has a similar design to yours that why I posted it!

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

The heat of the mash is enough to expand the copper and keep it together. If you want some added assurance that it won't come apart, then a SS worm drive hose clamp is a cheap way to go.

 

[mZnthebend]

I'm making a new manifold this weekend and plan to use a single Stainless sheet metal screw at each joint. Not all the way through both walls, just through one wall.

I used sheet metal screws before to hold together a lacrosse goal I made out of PVC. Held great and easy to take apart.

 

[Bullbythehorns]

Might also take a large tapered punch and "swedge" the inside of the pipe so it fits tighter into the fitting.

 

[hayabusa]

so i took a little bit of everyone's advice. I soldered the two ends, use a cotter-pin (vs. screw) for the middle post and it works like a champ.