outnumbered
Active Member
Does anybody have a all grain clone for this beer?
Mammoth Brewing Double nut brown Ale
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outnumbered
Active Member
Ok so I contacted Mammoth brewing company and this is what the head brewer sent me. Since this will be my 4th batch I have ever made I am not sure of what the % means. I have only ever used receipes that give me exact weights. If some one can explain it for me that would be great. I was planing on a 5.5gal batch. Also what does he mean by 25 ibus from millennium hops. What would be a clean ale yeast?
5.5% chocolate malt
5.5% Brown malt
11% Dark Munich malt
78% Gambrinus esb malt (can sub pale extract for extract brew---10 lbs)
25 ibus from millennium hops
For 5gal about .5 oz. Tettnang at the end of boil
14.5 Plato starting gravity or 1.059
Use a clean fermenting ale yeast at 68 F.
5.5% chocolate malt
5.5% Brown malt
11% Dark Munich malt
78% Gambrinus esb malt (can sub pale extract for extract brew---10 lbs)
25 ibus from millennium hops
For 5gal about .5 oz. Tettnang at the end of boil
14.5 Plato starting gravity or 1.059
Use a clean fermenting ale yeast at 68 F.
ghpeel
Well-Known Member
Here ya go dude:
http://hopville.com/recipe/731205/american-brown-ale-recipes/mammoth-brewing-double-nut-brown-ale-clone
% weight Name
============================
80% 6lb 8oz Light Dry Extract
11% 0lb 14oz Munich Malt - 20L
5% 0lb 6oz Chocolate Malt
5% 0lb 6oz Brown Malt
.75oz Millennium at 60 min
.75oz Tettnang at Flameout (end of boil)
Yeast: Safale US-05 Dry, sprinkled over wort (no starter)
Color: 22° SRM / 43° EBC (Brown to Dark Brown)
Final gravity: around 1.016 probably, Ferment at 68F
Recipes from professional brewers usually come in the form of percentages because you can scale them up or down to whatever size you need. Use a tool like Hopeville (my link above) which will let you enter batch size in gallons, ingredient size by weight, and then it will give you the percetages. You can reverse engineer the recipe by putting in ballpark weights, then tweaking them until the percentages line up with the recipe. If you're within a percent or two, it will come out close to the mark.
Good luck! The recipe looks solid, and tasty!
http://hopville.com/recipe/731205/american-brown-ale-recipes/mammoth-brewing-double-nut-brown-ale-clone
% weight Name
============================
80% 6lb 8oz Light Dry Extract
11% 0lb 14oz Munich Malt - 20L
5% 0lb 6oz Chocolate Malt
5% 0lb 6oz Brown Malt
.75oz Millennium at 60 min
.75oz Tettnang at Flameout (end of boil)
Yeast: Safale US-05 Dry, sprinkled over wort (no starter)
Color: 22° SRM / 43° EBC (Brown to Dark Brown)
Final gravity: around 1.016 probably, Ferment at 68F
Recipes from professional brewers usually come in the form of percentages because you can scale them up or down to whatever size you need. Use a tool like Hopeville (my link above) which will let you enter batch size in gallons, ingredient size by weight, and then it will give you the percetages. You can reverse engineer the recipe by putting in ballpark weights, then tweaking them until the percentages line up with the recipe. If you're within a percent or two, it will come out close to the mark.
Good luck! The recipe looks solid, and tasty!
RitsiGators
Well-Known Member
I just had this at their tasting room and its an amazing beer. They also gave a sheet with the precentages of all their main beers if you want the recipies for any others...
Hey guys, I'd love to brew this, but it would be my first foray into grain/malt brewing, as I've only done a bunch of Gluten Free stuff. Can someone please help this noob breakdown what I'm doing here? MY guess?
Put the 6lb 8oz Light Dry Extract, 14oz Munich Malt - 20L, 6oz Chocolate Malt, 6oz Brown Malt into a grain bag and place that in a 5 gallon pot around 150*, let it go for about 1/2 hour, remove/drain, bring to a boil, then proceed with the hops as dictated...
Is that accurate? If not, can someone please be so kind as to point me in a more educated direction... Thanks!
Put the 6lb 8oz Light Dry Extract, 14oz Munich Malt - 20L, 6oz Chocolate Malt, 6oz Brown Malt into a grain bag and place that in a 5 gallon pot around 150*, let it go for about 1/2 hour, remove/drain, bring to a boil, then proceed with the hops as dictated...
Is that accurate? If not, can someone please be so kind as to point me in a more educated direction... Thanks!
ghpeel
Well-Known Member
Almost. Don't put the Extract into the grain bag, just the other malts. Steep them at 150F for 30-40min, then drain, THEN add the extract to the drained liquid and start your boil.
To make it a bit less sticky, only add about 1/2 of the extract at the start of the boil. Add the remaining 1/2 a few minutes before your boil is done. Less chance of scorching on the bottom of the pot that way.
To make it a bit less sticky, only add about 1/2 of the extract at the start of the boil. Add the remaining 1/2 a few minutes before your boil is done. Less chance of scorching on the bottom of the pot that way.
Hoping to bottle this this upcoming week. I took your advice on the 1/2 and 1/2 of the extract and in the end my only change was substitute one of the grains for something with a similar profile. My new, noob question is pretty simple. With all of my gluten free beers, I have to add bottling sugar to force carbonate them when I go to bottle. Does this work the same way? With a 5 gallon batch at 68 degrees, anyone have an approximation on this, or should I just use my handy computer app? Either way, I figured hearing what you guys have done in the past on 5 gallon batches would be helpful...
HowardRoark
Active Member
RitsiGators said:
Do you have the recipe for the 395 IPA by chance?
RitsiGators
Well-Known Member
I have a rough recipe for the 395 IPA, I emailed their brewmaster and he actually gave a lot of details about the recipe, here is the response:
Hi Stephanos,
We use local sage we pick off of great basin sage plants. This is different than culinary sage. Not to say you can't make a nice beer using culinary sage, but it is a different flavor. So, I'm not sure what you have available to use:
Whichever you use, I would add it to the fermenter when fermentation is ending along with the juniper berries and hops. We crush the Juniper berries, put them and the sage into a hop sack, and add to the fermenter that way. For the dryhopping, we use Centennial hop pellets and just drop them in.
For a 5 gal. batch the amounts would be
.25 oz. wild sage
.125 oz. juniper berries
2 oz. dry hops
The base of the 395 is:
80% Gambrinus esb malt
8% crystal 60
8% dark munich
4 % Weyermann Caramunich 1
70 IBUs Which we get by using Millenium pellets in the boil for 75 min.
End of boil hops are Centennial pellets and for 5 gal. it would be 1oz.
Ferment using a Kolsch yeast at 68F
______________________
If you combine that with the sheet they gave, you should add hops at 70 min, 30 min (millennium) and then finish with an addition at 10 min and 0 min.
I made this recipe right around thanksgiving and really enjoyed the beer, but it was not as good as their version. I think my version could have benefited from a tiny amount of chocolate malt or cafara I to add some more depth to the beer, either that or I should have stuck to the hop bill more strictly!
Hi Stephanos,
We use local sage we pick off of great basin sage plants. This is different than culinary sage. Not to say you can't make a nice beer using culinary sage, but it is a different flavor. So, I'm not sure what you have available to use:
Whichever you use, I would add it to the fermenter when fermentation is ending along with the juniper berries and hops. We crush the Juniper berries, put them and the sage into a hop sack, and add to the fermenter that way. For the dryhopping, we use Centennial hop pellets and just drop them in.
For a 5 gal. batch the amounts would be
.25 oz. wild sage
.125 oz. juniper berries
2 oz. dry hops
The base of the 395 is:
80% Gambrinus esb malt
8% crystal 60
8% dark munich
4 % Weyermann Caramunich 1
70 IBUs Which we get by using Millenium pellets in the boil for 75 min.
End of boil hops are Centennial pellets and for 5 gal. it would be 1oz.
Ferment using a Kolsch yeast at 68F
______________________
If you combine that with the sheet they gave, you should add hops at 70 min, 30 min (millennium) and then finish with an addition at 10 min and 0 min.
I made this recipe right around thanksgiving and really enjoyed the beer, but it was not as good as their version. I think my version could have benefited from a tiny amount of chocolate malt or cafara I to add some more depth to the beer, either that or I should have stuck to the hop bill more strictly!
Sorry, could you help me with how I should properly carb these beers? I've never done a non-GF beer and I'm not sure if it is done the same way (with bottling sugar)... Thanks!
RitsiGators
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the process should be the same:
1) Wait until fermentation is complete, chose your form of bottling sugar (i use table sugar, a lot of people use corn syrup)
2) Dissolve sugar in boiling water and cool
3) Add sugar to your bottling bucket
4) Rack your beer into your bottling bucket and bottle.
http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html
Has a decent calculator if you don't have beersmith or a brewing program
