Malt question

[Adam's Apples]

I generally buy John Bull LME from my LHBS as it's generally available and I have been happy with results so far. I have used amber, dark and light extract so far and the most obvious difference seemed to be the colour, although there also seemed to be some difference in the body and taste they lended to the beer. At the moment I'm still trying to educate my palete as to the differences between diferent malts, hops etc.

Anyway, I recently saw some Marris Otter LME, again by John Bull I think, but it didn't mention whether it was dark, light etc. I was reading a leaflet from the LHBS, which seemed to advertise the Marris Otter as a finer malt. Is this the case? Is it just supposed to be a little bit better? It was a lot more expensive. Can it be used in any style beer and does it have different colours or is it just one colour?

Any info provided will be appreciated. If it is better I guess I may start using it, but then again will the difference warrant the extra cost?

Cheers

 

[AnOldUR]

I used John Bull Marris Otter in the partial mash Imperial IPA I kegged yesterday. The gravity sample leads me to believe it will be excellent. If you are interested I’ll revisit this thread in a few weeks and let you know the results. Anyone else have any experience with John Bull MO?

Edit:
Although I did get some conversion from the Munich and ratio of water to grain this may be technically considered an extract w/ speciality grains not partial mash.

 

[Adam's Apples]

I used John Bull Marris Otter in the partial mash Imperial IPA I kegged yesterday. The gravity sample leads me to believe it will be excellent. If you are interested I’ll revisit this thread in a few weeks and let you know the results. Anyone else have any experience with John Bull MO?

Nice one, I would appreciate it. Did it look to be light or dark?

Cheers

 

[DIY Brewing Company]

Maris Otter malt is definitely a light malt. It should be highly fermentable and I would say the color is probably a 2 SRM or so. It is definitely something you can try but I would say just do a mini mash with some maris otter grain if that is what you are looking for.

 

[Brett0424]

It's just telling you what base malt it's made from (Maris Otter). It should be light, just the maris otter malt unless otherwise indicated. I use Maris Otter for all my english style beers...porters, old ales, etc..

 

[AnOldUR]

Adam's Apple wrote:

Nice one, I would appreciate it. Did it look to be light or dark?

It didn't darken up too much. I used three cans of the MO. One went into the wort from the steeped grains before the boil. The other two were added after the boil.

When racking to the secondary I bottled one with what was left at the bottom of the carboy and threw in a carb tab. Tried it tonight. A little cloudy from coming off the trub, but taste was very nice, even without the dry hopping that the beer in the keg got.

My only worry is that I just read in another thread that more then 15 day of dry hopping can be bad. This spent 21 days in the secondary. I'm hoping to wait another few weeks at least before chilling and carbing. That's a long time to wait to see how it comes out.

 

[AnOldUR]

Well, so much for patience. This batch had been conditioning in the basement under pressure at 55-60 degrees. Stuck it in the frig on Monday morning and put a party tap on it last night (Thursday.) I know time will make it better, but if I don’t behave, I’ll never find out. It is that good right now. The recipe was based on EdWorts Stone IPA (thanks Ed.) I did it as an extract with grains steeped for 45 minutes and changed the hops a bit.

10.5 lb Maris Otter LME
1 lb Caramel 20º L
1 lb Munich 10º L
1 oz Warrior Hop Pellets
1 oz Amarillo Hop Pellets
3 oz Centennial Hop Pellets
Wyeast 1056 American Ale Liquid Yeast

Here's a picture to get an idea of the color.