Malt Muncher 3 PITA

[Tobor_8thMan]

Malt Muncher 3 is a real PITA. Must disassemble the mill to set properly set the gap, gap doesn’t hold and roller binds (with grain material on the sides) unless the mill is precisely set.

Anyone with a Malt Muncher 3 (aka MM3) have any advice on this mill?

Thanks

 

[RPh_Guy]

Must disassemble the mill to set properly set the gap

As mentioned on the other thread (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/3-roller-mill.670358/#post-8682657):
Make markings for multiple gap settings so you won't need to disassemble it again.

gap doesn’t hold

Hand tighten the adjustment screw at your desired setting, then tighten the nuts against the body of the mill to keep them from moving.

Here's a stock photo showing the nut on the adjustment screw (on the bottom right side of the image).

roller binds (with grain material on the sides) unless the mill is precisely set.

If the above solutions don't fix it...
The mill has built-in guards to keep the grain centered. It's unlikely that it's binding from having grain on the sides.

I extended my guards by making larger ones with cardboard because my drill was having trouble generating enough torque and was binding. I can post photos of mine if you want. It's not pretty but it works perfectly.


Off-topic but I think "MM3" refers to the Monster Mill and not Malt Muncher. They look pretty similar though. I have the Monster Mill 3 upgraded clone from KegCo.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

When I purchased the Malt Muncher 3 it was referred to and billed as MM3. However, I do know the Monster Mill 3 roller is also called the MM-3.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I've seen some with the hopper guards on the inside and some with the hopper guards on the outside. Bit of a struggle getting the hopper guards inside so I let them be outside. Perhaps, this is 1 of the problems?

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

The gap screws are tight and with screw nut against the body of the mill. However, noticed as I milled, grain moving thru the hopper differently. Sure enough after milling I check the gap and it's not what I set.

 

[RPh_Guy]

hopper guards on the outside

What do you mean "on the outside"? They should be positioned like in the above photo. As I mentioned, I made larger ones for my mill because I had the perfect storm of increased torque requirements.

The gap screws are tight and with screw nut against the body of the mill. However, noticed as I milled, grain moving thru the hopper differently. Sure enough after milling I check the gap and it's not what I set.

You should be able to tighten the adjustment screws enough so that they won't turn (and the gap won't change). If they won't stay put even with adequate hand tightening and the nuts tightened, maybe the mill is faulty. Did you use a wrench to tighten the nuts?

Don't forget the nuts need to be fully loosened before tightening the adjustment screws.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

"On the outside". The hopper tabs either go on the inside of the mill or the outside of the mill. Bit of a struggle getting the tabs into the inside of the mill.

Adjustment knobs on each side were stationary. However, during milling the mill gap changed.

Yes, I understand the nuts are loosened before tightening the adjustment screws.

Seriously considering a Monster Mill as I've just about had enough of the Malt Muncher (made in China POS).

 

[Pkrd]

My generic cheap aliexpress mill binds up too.
I put some tape on the inside of the chute so it only feeds into the middle 3/4 of the rollers.

 

[RPh_Guy]

This is what I have:
https://www.beveragefactory.com/homebrew/pre-fermentation-equipment/kegco-km11gm-3r-grain-mill.html
It's very reliable. It has stainless ball bearings, so it'll last forever, unlike other models (e.g. the Monster Mill) that have bronze bushings. There are threads here about this mill with overwhelmingly positive experience.

I'm using a Monster Mill base on a bucket, since it didn't come with a base back when I bought it.

"On the outside". The hopper tabs either go on the inside of the mill or the outside of the mill. Bit of a struggle getting the tabs into the inside of the mill.

Can you post a photo? I don't see how they could do any good whatsoever on the "outside".

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I will take a photo on Sunday and post. Oh, wait a minute, it's already Sunday! Anyway, I will take a photo and post.

I wonder if the holes in the bottom of the Malt Muncher match the holes in the Monster Mill. I wonder as if they are the same then I can use my existing base.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Photo stolen, no borrowed, from the internet. I put a red circle around what I'm calling the hopper tabs.

However, other stolen, borrowed, photos either show the tab tucked into the base or not used at all.

Unless the mill in the photo above has the hopper tabs inside the hopper as shown in https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/malt-muncher-3-pita.670351/#post-8682738

 

[CodeSection]

Photo stolen, no borrowed, from the internet. I put a red circle around what I'm calling the hopper tabs.
View attachment 645302

However, other stolen, borrowed, photos either show the tab tucked into the base or not used at all.
View attachment 645303

Unless the mill in the photo above has the hopper tabs inside the hopper as shown in https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/malt-muncher-3-pita.670351/#post-8682738

Obviously, the picture with the tabs on the outside shows how someone installed it incorrectly. Think about it, why would you put that tab on the outside with it being so long and hanging over the sides like that? What true function would it perform when installed on the outside?

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Obviously, the picture with the tabs on the outside shows how someone installed it incorrectly. Think about it, why would you put that tab on the outside with it being so long and hanging over the sides like that? What true function would it perform when installed on the outside?

Didn't make sense. Since no instructions where included with the mill I had to search for them online. Found instructions at a California homebrew supplier. I trusted their instructions.

 

[CodeSection]

Didn't make sense. Since no instructions where included with the mill I had to search for them online. Found instructions at a California homebrew supplier. I trusted their instructions.

Too bad you were given wrong information. At least you have it all sorted out now.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

Change those pieces as you have them mounted in post #13 and install them as shown in post #2! If you do not have a short enough screwdriver to install them as post #2 shows, you can buy a stubby screwdriver from Harbor Freight for like $3!

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Yes, the tabs on the hopper were switched to the inside.

 

[augiedoggy]

Malt Muncher 3 is a real PITA. Must disassemble the mill to set properly set the gap, gap doesn’t hold and roller binds (with grain material on the sides) unless the mill is precisely set.

Anyone with a Malt Muncher 3 (aka MM3) have any advice on this mill?

Thanks

its a clone of the MM3 and shares this same weakness with other 3 roller mills. you have to make sure the cams on each end are adjusted evenly and dont go by the factory markings on the side. they were wrong on my mill.

 

[augiedoggy]

Obviously, the picture with the tabs on the outside shows how someone installed it incorrectly. Think about it, why would you put that tab on the outside with it being so long and hanging over the sides like that? What true function would it perform when installed on the outside?

Yes the photos on the kegco website used to show the same incorrect assembly on thier version of the same mill

 

[augiedoggy]

This is what I have:
https://www.beveragefactory.com/homebrew/pre-fermentation-equipment/kegco-km11gm-3r-grain-mill.html
It's very reliable. It has stainless ball bearings, so it'll last forever, unlike other models (e.g. the Monster Mill) that have bronze bushings. There are threads here about this mill with overwhelmingly positive experience.

I'm using a Monster Mill base on a bucket, since it didn't come with a base back when I bought it.


Can you post a photo? I don't see how they could do any good whatsoever on the "outside".

The malt munchier is the exact same mill as the kegco mill, its made by the same manufacturer that makes the cereal killer too... The MM3 hopper extension bolts right up to these mills as well. the only functional differences between it and the mm3 are the real bearings and the fact that its metric vs SAE.. I feel like Ive posted this a lot already today since theres so many mill threads going on but I use one of these kegco mills in my brewpub and have put thousands of lbs of grain through it now with zero noticeable wear anywhere.. Once its adjusted correctly I left it alone and havent messed with the gap.

 

[RPh_Guy]

The malt munchier is the exact same mill as the kegco mill, its made by the same manufacturer that makes the cereal killer too... The MM3 hopper extension bolts right up to these mills as well. the only functional differences between it and the mm3 are the real bearings and the fact that its metric vs SAE.. I feel like Ive posted this a lot already today since theres so many mill threads going on but I use one of these kegco mills in my brewpub and have put thousands of lbs of grain through it now with zero noticeable wear anywhere.. Once its adjusted correctly I left it alone and havent messed with the gap.

When you say MM3 are you meaning Monster Mill or Malt Muncher?
Pretty sure it's supposed to refer to only the Monster Mill.

 

[augiedoggy]

When you say MM3 are you meaning Monster Mill or Malt Muncher?
Pretty sure it's supposed to refer to only the Monster Mill.

Honestly im referring to the monster mill but its technically correct to refer to either as an MM3 since they have the same abbreviation

 

[RPh_Guy]

Photos of the Malt Muncher look exactly like the KegCo/ Monster Mill. Are they just all the same, except bronze bushings vs stainless ball bearings (and price)?

 

[augiedoggy]

Photos of the Malt Muncher look exactly like the KegCo/ Monster Mill. Are they just all the same, except bronze bushings vs stainless ball bearings (and price)?

the malt munchier and kegco mill for $134 shipped from the beverage factory with the base are the same mill from same manufacturer. just different branding. the cereal killer is rebranded as the 2 roll kegco mill and malt munchier as well as other brands like the hullwrecker and it is made by the same company in china that makes the malt munchier/kegco 3 roller. it also uses sealed ball bearings

The monster mill is a different mill made in the USA that uses sacrificial bronze bushing that need to be changed over time as they wear out. The monster mill is the original and the mills above are clones. kind of like the older barley crusher which I believe the monster mill may have copied its design from but im not sure who was around first.
The version of the 3 roller monster mill with real bearings that would be comparable to the malt munchier/kegco would be the pro version with the bearing upgrade which would be many times the cost. This is why it appears to be a no brainer to buy the malt munchier or kegco unless your dead set at buying american even if its an inferior design.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I spent a LOT of time adjusting this mill. What a total PITA! Screws and position of holes for the screws are made for small Keebler Elf type hands. Gapped at 0.045 as my eHERMS is good with 0.045 to 0.050 gap.

Unless I'm misunderstanding the side to gap then this mill is milling too fine.

My understanding of the roller movement was noted in this post
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/3-roller-mill.670358/#post-8682208

Milled some 2 row pale malt and the grain is milled almost to the stage of flour. Not good for mashing.

Quickly coming to the conclusion the mill is simply another piece of Chinese junk.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Gapped at 0.45

To be clear, you mean 0.045 inches?

Milled some 2 row pale malt and the grain is milled almost to the stage of flour.

That is surprising. 0.045" would give me a fairly coarse crush, and I had my feeler gauge wedged in there pretty tightly when I made my markings.
For what it's worth, I also condition my grain, which has made an enormous improvement in flow. YMMV.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Yes, sorry 0.045 gap

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

By "condition my grain" you mean make wet? Unsure if this is a good idea with the Malt Muncher rollers.

 

[RPh_Guy]

It's not wet, the grain absorbs the water.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Unless the rollers, etc are stainless anything wet/moist is asking for eventual rust.

 

[brewbama]

Hold back a pound or possibly a half pound unconditioned to run through after the bulk of the conditioned malt to clean the rollers. I’ve been conditioning for quite a while on a JSP Malt Mill this way with great success.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Advice/recommendations on conditioning the malt?

 

[RPh_Guy]

After weighing the grain I dump it in a shallow tub and spray with water while stirring with my hands. Leave it sit for at least 10 minutes before milling. It doesn't have any moisture in my experience.

Amount of water should be about 2% of the grain weight.
Pounds times 0.32 equals ounces of water.

Cheers

 

[mongoose33]

I have a Monster Mill 3. I was struggling a bit to get it to hold a gap, and then to get the rollers to spin, then in some sort of desperation I loosened a couple bolts holding it to the cart. Voila! Turned out that I didn't quite have things perfectly aligned, and tightening them TIGHT caused a slight misalignment of the mill.

So, check on that if all the above isn't working for you, or isn't a permanent fix.