Making the jump to 3-gallon from 1-gallon

[nyrmc23]

So I've been brewing for about four months now and want to make the jump to three-gallon brewing from one-gallon. I've been using a five-gallon Gatorade cooler with a brew bag for my one-gallon brews, and I have a three-gallon kettle for boiling.

Long story short, what equipment would I have to buy? Just a bigger kettle (thinking five-gallon?) and maybe a couple five-gallon fermenters?

 

[Oginme]

Think of where you think you are going to end up.

If you think you would eventually progress to 5-gallon batches, then I would invest in at least a 10 gallon brew kettle. Most of my batches are 10 liter (2.7 gal) in size and I do them comfortably in a 22 qt kettle. If you think that you will be comfortable for a long time with 3-gal batches, then that is a good size for most recipes. Very high gravity recipes may be a challenge for you at that size, but it would fit the majority of your brewing.

Your 5-gallon cooler will be fine for a 3-gal batch.

 

[nyrmc23]

Think of where you think you are going to end up.

If you think you would eventually progress to 5-gallon batches, then I would invest in at least a 10 gallon brew kettle. Most of my batches are 10 liter (2.7 gal) in size and I do them comfortably in a 22 qt kettle. If you think that you will be comfortable for a long time with 3-gal batches, then that is a good size for most recipes. Very high gravity recipes may be a challenge for you at that size, but it would fit the majority of your brewing.

Your 5-gallon cooler will be fine for a 3-gal batch.

Yeah I don't see myself going up to 5-gallon mostly because I don't want to invest in cooling equipment. Thanks for the response.

 

[AZCoolerBrewer]

A 5 gallon mash tun for 3 gallon batches is barely just big enough for all but the biggest beers. I do think 6 gallon mash tun and brew kettle is a better size for you. You can just comfortably fit anything up to 1.100 in brew gear that can handle double what your collected wort will be, assuming you do some sparge.

 

[nyrmc23]

A follow-up. Is a

A 5 gallon mash tun for 3 gallon batches is barely just big enough for all but the biggest beers. I do think 6 gallon mash tun and brew kettle is a better size for you. You can just comfortably fit anything up to 1.100 in brew gear that can handle double what your collected wort will be, assuming you do some sparge.

So you don't think my 5-gal cooler would be big enough?

 

[Kent88]

I brew 3-gallon batches primarily. I have a 3-gallon cooler mash tun that I usually max out at about 5.5lbs of dry malt. I usually add a little dry malt extract, like when I brew a BDSA that is a little more than 1.100 OG I'll add about 3lbs DME.

I typically boil in a 5 gallon kettle. I kind of wish I had an 8-gallon kettle, but I make due.

 

[TechFanMD]

Yeah I don't see myself going up to 5-gallon mostly because I don't want to invest in cooling equipment. Thanks for the response.

IF not wanting cooling equipment is the only reason - get a bigger pot that can handle 5 gallon batches if you can afford it. The wort chiller isn’t that expensive to make that leap someday. The price difference between a 5 gallon pot and a 7-8 gallon pot isn’t that much.....but buying a 5g and realizing in a year or so that you want a bigger one really adds up.

I understand when people just don’t want more than 1 or 3 gallons of beer though.

 

[nyrmc23]

IF not wanting cooking equipment is the only reason - get a bigger pot that can handle 5 gallon batches if you can afford it. The wort chiller isn’t that expensive to make that leap someday. The price difference between a 5 gallon pot and a 7-8 gallon pot isn’t that much.....but buying a 5g and realizing in a year or so that you want a bigger one really adds up.

I understand when people just don’t want more than 1 or 3 gallons of beer though.

I should have also said what you said at the end. Both part of the reason. One gallon is too little, and five is too much.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

I went from 6 to 3.5gal batches. I still have a 10gal converted home mash tun but Ill use a 6in by 14in SS strainer. It holds about 5lbs of grain then add dme in the end for a 2hr brew day. I use homer buckets also. Can't beat the price...$5 with oring lid. The mash tun gives better clarity tho. Lots of options depending on budget.

 

[mdscole]

I went from 5 to 10 to 15 gallon batches. So, there’s always some moron like me selling stuff on Craigslist for cheap. Go for 5. Everything is geared for 5. Buy used stuff. It’s cheap.

Sold a 15 gallon ported pot for 75. Sold a 10 gal mash tun cooler for 65...

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

I went from 5 to 10 to 15 gallon batches. So, there’s always some moron like me selling stuff on Craigslist for cheap. Go for 5. Everything is geared for 5. Buy used stuff. It’s cheap.

Sold a 15 gallon ported pot for 75. Sold a 10 gal mash tun cooler for 65...

When you start 1bbl brewing, PM me! [emoji16]

 

[RPh_Guy]

I use homer buckets also. Can't beat the price...$5 with oring lid.

Where do you get the lid? Home Depot?
I'm not sure if the plastic is food safe?

 

[Oginme]

A follow-up. Is a


So you don't think my 5-gal cooler would be big enough?

I think it is just fine. I can easily do 10 liter batches (with water enough for a 90 minute boil) in mine when I am forced to brew outside. It is a little tight for higher gravity recipes, but I can squeeze a 5-gal batch through it when I want.

 

[RM-MN]

Yeah I don't see myself going up to 5-gallon mostly because I don't want to invest in cooling equipment. Thanks for the response.

My cooling equipment is a plastic tub that I picked up at a thrift store for $2. It takes more time to get to pitching temperature than an immersion cooler but I can use it for other purposes. The biggest factor in cooling is to get the wort below isomerization temperature so the late addition hops do not become bittering hops. That means you need to cool the wort below 170F as quickly as possible. After that is accomplished the slower cooling isn't much of a problem. When there are no late addition hops I will sometimes go for "no-chill" cooling where I simply let the wort cool in air. That can take many hours, often overnight, but works well.

 

[Mitch S]

Not trying to get too off topic, but while shopping around yesterday I found that Ss Brewtech has a brewing system buyer's guide PDF that starts at 3 gallons and goes all the way to 15 gallons. While it is their equipment listed, one could use this as a guide for what sizes needed for everything and any accessories needed as well. Just make sure that you confirm whether its for extract or all grain, as they give recommendations for both.

Here's the link to the page where I found it: https://ssbrewtech.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/207334146-Brewing-System-Buyers-Guide

 

[VirginiaHops1]

If you wanted to do 2.5-3 gallon BIAB batches all you would really need is a 5 gallon kettle, and some bags. Perhaps you could find a used kettle for cheap if you don't have one that big. Cost to move to 3 gallon batches should be fairly minimal.

If you don't have bigger fermenters you'd need that too. I do primarily 2.5 gallon batches and picked up a couple 3 gallon Better Bottles to ferment in. Main reason is the smaller footprint, so I can fit several in my ferm chamber. You can ferment 2.5-3 gal batches in bigger fermenters if you already have those. I've done some small batches in my 6 gallon Better Bottle with no issues. Just takes up more real estate. Also, cleaning the smaller BBs is a bit easier.

 

[AZCoolerBrewer]

A follow-up. Is a


So you don't think my 5-gal cooler would be big enough?

Like the other poster noted, you can get away with a smaller mash tun for really big beers if you use DME. You can probably do up to 1.085 beers with that size without having to supplement. But if you want to do all grain I I think you would be happier with the 6 gallon mash tun and if it were me, I would mash in a bag. I do single vessel, so my kettle needs to be bigger. I realize that I advised you to have a big kettle but if you’re using a separate mash tun, your kettle needs only to be big enough to handle the boil, so depending on your boil off rate a 4 or 5 gallon pot would be fine and I would lean towards 5 for you in case you want to boil longer for whatever reason.

 

[deadwolfbones]

I've been doing 3-gallon no-sparge BIAB batches for the past year in a 6 gallon kettle. It worked okay for most beers, but I definitely had to use DME to goose the bigger beers I've made (like a 13% wheatwine), or sparge, which I don't want to do. Overall, I was happy with that size, but 7.5 or 8 gallon would probably be safer.

I recently got a custom-made brew bag for my Robobrew V3 and I'm using that now. It has 9gal capacity and should be big enough for the biggest beers I could want to make.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Where do you get the lid? Home Depot?
I'm not sure if the plastic is food safe?

Haha...This subject comes up every now and then. They are food grade. Just look at the bottom recycle number. And no, it doesn't add orange flavoring. Lids are at depot also. I have a step bit for the grommet/air lock and spigot which makes transfers 1000x easier.


Any doubts? Head over to the "Fellowship of the Home Brew" threads. Lastest is 6. We trade hb with eachother and critique.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Yeah I don't see myself going up to 5-gallon mostly because I don't want to invest in cooling equipment. Thanks for the response.

Couple things. If you have a chest freezer, just collect ice for a few days. I use about 4-10lbs bags worth. Takes about 3 days to collect.

Or, try no-boil options. I've done 2 no boil Hefeweisens now. DME pale/wheat, boil some hops on the side for 5min and add through strainer, RO water, WLP300 yeast and let sit for 3 weeks. Sanitize everything but easy peasy. Did an IPA the same way.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Sources say not all HDPE is food grade.

Thanks though, I'll look for the lids.

 

[TechFanMD]

Haha...This subject comes up every now and then. They are food grade. Just look at the bottom recycle number. And no, it doesn't add orange flavoring. Lids are at depot also. I have a step bit for the grommet/air lock and spigot which makes transfers 1000x easier.


Any doubts? Head over to the "Fellowship of the Home Brew" threads. Lastest is 6. We trade hb with eachother and critique.

Just because it is HDPE doesn’t mean it is food grade if the dyes or other manufacturing processes make it not food grade (made on same molds as non food grade plastics, mold release, etc).

Home Depot specifically says that it is NOT food grade. See image or link.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Home-Depot-5-Gal-Homer-Bucket-05GLHD2/100087613

 

[Jimbodaman]

Simplest situation would be an 8 gallon boil kettle/mash tun. I'd just do brew in a bag, you could easily do a full volume mash up to 1.100 SG. 5 gallon carboy, and not have to make a yeast starter. 3 gallons is where it's at.

 

[hafmpty]

I brew 2.5gal BIAB batches with 3.75gal in the kettle at the end of the boil. I transfer 3.25gal of fairly clear wort into the fermenters. I do all my Brewing in a 7.5gal Blichmann G2 Boilermaker pot. In this pot I start my boil with 4.75gal. I can generally fit all of my grain and water in. Every now and then I have to do a small sparge, but only in large grain bills. I don’t mind this. I don’t buy into the mentality that say buy a pot big enough for the biggest beer you think you’ll brew. I like a pot sized for my normal batches and then I’ll work around it for the odd beer every now and then. Just my 2-cents. Cheers!

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Just because it is HDPE doesn’t mean it is food grade if the dyes or other manufacturing processes make it not food grade (made on same molds as non food grade plastics, mold release, etc).

Home Depot specifically says that it is NOT food grade. See image or link.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Home-Depot-5-Gal-Homer-Bucket-05GLHD2/100087613

Really now....

 

[TechFanMD]

It's the same sh!t man.....

Whatever. You’ll believe what you want to believe. HDPE can be food grade - but it doesn’t mean it is always food grade. Dyes, manufacturing process, handling can all play a role. No matter what you choose to believe based on your own agenda and past practice - not all HDPE2 plastics are food grade. Literally. It is fact and science.

A food grade bucket is likely base of HDPE2, but not all HDPE2 buckets are food grade. You want to believe otherwise? I would not drink your beer. I feel sorry for those who do, with a trust that you are using food grade plastics.

The manufacturer/seller telling you it isn’t food grade isn’t enough? If it were - why wouldn’t they say it’s food grade and have even more purposes to sell it for?

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

 

[TechFanMD]

View attachment 599831

True. But not all HDPE #2 is food grade. Since you’re using Five Gallon Ideas as a source - I will too. See photo.

 

[Aristoi]

These website describe the differences better than I can. The #2 simply describes the generic plastic material type, there are many many grades from many different material suppliers that are for different applications, have different quality, material properties, and most important to the person buying it to manufacture for its intended purpose is cost! Trash can and industrial containers are the cheapest plastic they can buy and often color it not only for marketing but to hide imperfections within the plastic resin or manufacturing process. Please spend the couple extra dollars for a food grade bucket. I think Walmart even sells food grade buckets for right around the same price as Home Depot homer buckets.

https://www.chemicalsafetyfacts.org/types-plastic-food-packaging-safety-close-look/
http://gwcontainers.com/food-grade-plastic-what-is-it/
http://www.plasticsintl.com/blog/what-makes-a-plastic-food-grade/
https://modernsurvivalblog.com/preps/safe-plastics-for-food-and-drink/

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Might explain my tummy getting larger and general weight gain after brewing with homer buckets....