Making the jump, looking at 120 versus 240

[iijakii]

I have a dual 1500W system and can get a healthy boil at 8gal. Haven't tried higher volumes. No insulation.

 

[augiedoggy]

I have a dual 1500W system and can get a healthy boil at 8gal. Haven't tried higher volumes. No insulation.

wow good to know.... I wonder why results vary so much... I know kettle dimensions have a bit to do with it... tall narrow kettles would boil easier than shallow wide ones.. how long does it take to reach a boil?

 

[iijakii]

From mashout to boil it's maybe 15, 20mins max. It does take me close to an hour to initially heatup the 9gal (strike and sparge/HERMS) to 150s though.

 

[NoahBeach]

... plus I dont know of any ulwd (or even lwd off hand)120v elements so he would have to be careful when brewing heavy beers

My suggestion is 240v system, but just for completeness sake, there are a some options.

All stainless 120V ULWD

Also you could run a 240v 5500w ripple element at 120v to get 1375W of power, that would be ILWD (insanely low watt density, term borrowed from Bobby_M).

Things are starting to add up. Primarily a 30A 240 GFCI breaker.

Check ebay, as long as you know what breakers your panel takes there is no reason you can't order them online. I got my 240v 30amp GE THQL-GFCI breaker off ebay for $45 shipped, brand new, Home Depot sells it for $120. I would have gone with the SPA Panel if I didn't find a deal on it, SPA Panels get you a GFCI breaker for about $60.

 

[Firewalker11]

@augiedoggie

Man, I wish I had a window in that room but I don't. The whole room including the sink toilet shower in pocket door access is close to 12 by 15 feet. There are no windows but there is an outside wall, the problem is that wall is also where the vent stack is so I can't put in a window.

 

[maierhof]

Originally Posted by iijakii
I have a dual 1500W system and can get a healthy boil at 8gal. Haven't tried higher volumes. No insulation.

Originally Posted by augiedoggy
wow good to know.... I wonder why results vary so much... I know kettle dimensions have a bit to do with it... tall narrow kettles would boil easier than shallow wide ones.. how long does it take to reach a boil?

I have an dedicated external HX - which is an 8gal pot with a 5500 ULWD at 30amps
If the water is ~70 - I can get it to boil temps within 18 min.
Within the steps I take during a mash - I can change temps within 4-6 min.
LOVING this thing!!

 

[Lynchy217]

2 1500w elements are going to be much slower and struggle to boil compared to a 240v system... plus I dont know of any ulwd (or even lwd off hand)120v elements so he would have to be careful when brewing heavy beers I've read many have to wrap towels around the kettle to insulate just to achieve a weak boil.
curios how much do you boil at once and do you need to insulate your kettle?

I built mine with 2 2kW elements that are LWD (pretty much on the edge of ULWD). The Camco ones he linked here are ULWD, so there's that. With 3kW and decent insulation, he should have no problem getting a rigorous boil. I very rarely use all 4kW except when initially getting it to boil temps, and that's without any insulation whatsoever. It might take a bit longer, but to me, at least it would probably be worth the $100-200 in savings.

 

[augiedoggy]

I built mine with 2 2kW elements that are LWD (pretty much on the edge of ULWD). The Camco ones he linked here are ULWD, so there's that. With 3kW and decent insulation, he should have no problem getting a rigorous boil. I very rarely use all 4kW except when initially getting it to boil temps, and that's without any insulation whatsoever. It might take a bit longer, but to me, at least it would probably be worth the $100-200 in savings.

I know it can easily be done with 4000w... even 3500w is plenty for boiling 5 gallon brews but I was under the impression that 3000w is borderline without help like insulation...

the Camco 02492 the OP mentioned are only LWD not ULWD.... they are only 6" long...vs say the 1500w ULWD ones mentioned above and below which are 12" long...

 

[augiedoggy]

My suggestion is 240v system, but just for completeness sake, there are a some options.

All stainless 120V ULWD

Also you could run a 240v 5500w ripple element at 120v to get 1375W of power, that would be ILWD (insanely low watt density, term borrowed from Bobby_M).



Check ebay, as long as you know what breakers your panel takes there is no reason you can't order them online. I got my 240v 30amp GE THQL-GFCI breaker off ebay for $45 shipped, brand new, Home Depot sells it for $120. I would have gone with the SPA Panel if I didn't find a deal on it, SPA Panels get you a GFCI breaker for about $60.

ahh yes I forget about the ones bobby sells... There are not commonly found elswhere...

 

[Lynchy217]

I know it can easily be done with 4000w... even 3500w is plenty for boiling 5 gallon brews but I was under the impression that 3000w is borderline without help like insulation...

the Camco 02492 the OP mentioned are only LWD not ULWD.... they are only 6" long...vs say the 1500w ULWD ones mentioned above and below which are 12" long...

Really? Huh, the Amazon page for them indicates ULWD.. Either way, I have LWD elements in my build, and I've never had issues with scorching. I do recirculate, though.

 

[augiedoggy]

Really? Huh, the Amazon page for them indicates ULWD.. Either way, I have LWD elements in my build, and I've never had issues with scorching. I do recirculate, though.

These?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060HN8KQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Kob]

2 1500w elements are going to be much slower and struggle to boil compared to a 240v system... plus I dont know of any ulwd (or even lwd off hand)120v elements so he would have to be careful when brewing heavy beers I've read many have to wrap towels around the kettle to insulate just to achieve a weak boil.
curios how much do you boil at once and do you need to insulate your kettle?

I only do 5 gal batches currently. I am not "planing" on doing larger ones but I also never really planed to go electric at one point either.

Here is the element I'm currently looking at.

http://amzn.to/1PvYMIX

 

[Ravenshead]

That's the one I've been using for years though I think mine might be 4800 W. You can buy them a Home depot BTW.

I assume your pot has two holes for elements, did you find a way to plug your other element hole?

 

[Kob]

If they have those at the 'Depot I may pick that up tomorrow when I put this together with my buddy. I'll more than likely put another ball valve or even a bulkhead and plug.

I'll also look at getting some insulation, but I rarely brew on real cold days. I guess I can now brew in the garage with the door closed. That's gonna be awesome.

 

[augiedoggy]

I only do 5 gal batches currently. I am not "planing" on doing larger ones but I also never really planed to go electric at one point either.

Here is the element I'm currently looking at.

http://amzn.to/1PvYMIX

get the ripple version....That version may work ok but its still not as ideal as the ripple ones. the one linked above is advertised as ultra low watt density because of the surface material not because it actually is.. with water it behaves that way and fights calcium buildup..... Being as short as it is and as many watts as it is the actual math doesnt work... its low watt density... Home depot should have the wavy ripple ones too ...ace hardware sells them that the brand name on mine although they are made by the same people who make the ones camco brands as thier own.

 

[azazel1024]

@augiedoggie

Man, I wish I had a window in that room but I don't. The whole room including the sink toilet shower in pocket door access is close to 12 by 15 feet. There are no windows but there is an outside wall, the problem is that wall is also where the vent stack is so I can't put in a window.

Where I am likely to be able to setup my future electric brewery, I sadly have a window...that will likely be covered up by that point because of a planned addition in a couple of years. Once we do the planned tear down and rebuild of our garage (bigger and better! With mudroom), the laundry will be moved, so I can convert the existing basement laundry room to an electric brewery (possibility that electric brewery may go in rebuilt garage and laundry will stay where it is).

 

[Kob]

Ok This seems to be the winner.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YU2YS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[TexasWine]

I know it can easily be done with 4000w... even 3500w is plenty for boiling 5 gallon brews but I was under the impression that 3000w is borderline without help like insulation...

I did a Barley Wine a few weeks ago with two of Bobby's hot rods and 1500 watt elements. Boiled 8.75 gallons just fine.