Making IBUs less harsh? IPA

[Dilligaf]

To whomever this may concern

This weekend I will be brewing Northern Brewers Two Hearted Ale Clone (Extract) kit. I want this beer to have plenty of hop flavor and aroma, but I don’t want to wait for the beer to age more than three or four weeks to reach its peak.

I read an article on Jami’s website. http://http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.htmthe other day. He was talking about late hop additions and how they relate to lessened harshness of the hops bitterness.

How many of you have experience in this and how did it turn out?

My favorite IPAs have an IBU of 45 to 65. I want to aim for the higher end of the scale and see how long it takes to get a well balanced drinkable beer. I would like to test what I heard on the jamil show and see if I can obtain a beer with plenty of hop flavor and aroma after about three weeks.

I know …I know Palmer chart does know agree with what I am saying ( tried to post didn't work), but I have to hope there is a way to get the flavor I want without the required aging. I have read Yuri_Rage’s article on aging beer and plan to make correction accordingly. This mostly includes pitching a big starter and maintaining fermentation temps. Since I don’t have the means to keg I will be forced to age my beer in the bottles while I wait to carb. (Great thread!!!!)

Here is the modified Northern Brewer recipe. Let me know what you think? I know this is nothing new or revolutionary, but as a FNG I have to start somewhere…..Thanks.

NB Two Hearted Ale (Clone)
American IPA


Type: Extract
Date: 10/19/2008
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Brewer: DILLIGAF
Boil Size: 6.50 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: 10 gal pot
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: -
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.15 lb Golden LME (3.0 SRM) Extract 90.15 %
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.85 %
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (60 min) Hops 17.4 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
1.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (20 min) Hops 31.7 IBU
2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (5 min) Hops 13.9 IBU
1 Pkgs Irish Ale (Wyeast Labs #1084) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.063 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 0.000 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.016 SG Measured Final Gravity: 0.000 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 6.13 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 0.00 %
Bitterness: 63.0 IBU Calories: 0 cal/pint
Est Color: 8.9 SRM Color: Color


Mash Profile

Mash Name: None Total Grain Weight: 10.00 lb
Sparge Water: - Grain Temperature: -
Sparge Temperature: - TunTemperature: -
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: -

Steep grains as desired (30-60 minutes)



Mash Notes: -
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Corn Sugar Volumes of CO2: 2.8
Pressure/Weight: 5.4 oz Carbonation Used: -
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 75.0 F Age for: 28.0 days
Storage Temperature: 75.0 F

 

[BarleyWater]

DO IT!!! You will love the outcome, it's the only way I do my IPAs anymore. It takes a little bit more hops, but it's well worth it IMO. I have actually made that particular recipe, with different hops, and it came out great.

 

[Chris_Dog]

IIRC Bitterness comes from the hops in the boil. Late hop additions including dry hopping add to the aroma and add little to the bitterness.

<EDIT> I just re-read your post and it looks like my post is agreeing with you. (Its early)

 

[slimer]

I would also consider doing a first wort hop for your bittering addition. It seems to me that doing that usually gives a nice round bitterness to the beer.

I know you're doing an extract, but I think you can put the hops in when you are bringing the water up to the boil.

 

[TexLaw]

I would also consider doing a first wort hop for your bittering addition. It seems to me that doing that usually gives a nice round bitterness to the beer.

That is exactly what I was going to suggest. I get a smoother bitterness, as well as a bit more hop flavor and aroma. Add your hops when you steep your grains. Just don't put them in the steeping bag with your grains, cuz you want to leave the hops in there.



TL

 

[BarleyWater]

IIRC Bitterness comes from the hops in the boil. Late hop additions including dry hopping add to the aroma and add little to the bitterness.

<EDIT> I just re-read your post and it looks like my post is agreeing with you. (Its early)

About half of the bittering potential is extracted from the hops within the first 15 minutes they are in the boil, bittering is a non-linear function. As hops are boiled longer, they contribute less and less bitterness to the beer, to a point where further boiling doesn't yield any more bitterness. Depending on the formula used, this will be around 60-90 minutes. Some say, and I tend to agree, that the bitterness added by the "flavor" and "aroma" additions is a much smoother bitterness.

I typically get just over 50% of my IBU's from late hops (20 minutes or less), and the rest from first wort and mash hopping. No traditional 60min bittering additions for me, and my IPAs are fantastic if I may say so myself.

 

[Dilligaf]

Thank every one for your help and opinions. You reaffirmed what I read and boosted my confidence in the technique.:rockin:

Now a can hardly wait to try this out. I have a big starter going and should be ready to brew Sunday. Boo-Yea!!!!

Edit: Just wanted to say thanks to Slimer and TexLaw for the first wort addition tip. It was not in the article but I have plenty of faith in all of you here and will defiantly try it out.

 

[BarleyWater]

Edit: Just wanted to say thanks to Slimer and TexLaw for the first wort addition tip. It was not in the article but I have plenty of faith in all of you here and will defiantly try it out.

What about me?

I typically get just over 50% of my IBU's from late hops (20 minutes or less), and the rest from first wort and mash hopping. No traditional 60min bittering additions for me, and my IPAs are fantastic if I may say so myself.

Try it out, it will turn out GREAT.

 

[k1v1116]

the only thing I can think to add is water chemistry, water high in sulfates increases the sharpness of hop bitterness. you cant really remove sulfates from water but if your tap water has a lot you could at least cut it with distilled water.

 

[Dilligaf]

the only thing I can think to add is water chemistry, water high in sulfates increases the sharpness of hop bitterness. you cant really remove sulfates from water but if your tap water has a lot you could at least cut it with distilled water.

Thanks for your reply, I do have hard water but I'm not sure if that means that it is high in sulfates? I cut it with 3 gal of distilled water, but I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes. I will need to bush up on water chemistry before I make the leap to AG

What about me?

Sorry my intention was not to leave you out. I was posting with a sort amount of time. Thank you for pointing out that I'm a ******

Really though thanks for your help. This site makes brewing that much more enjoyable.

 

[slimer]

Update: Just tried my Sweet IPA over the weekend and it includes ~4 oz. of Honey Malt. Maybe consider putting ~2 oz. of it in your steeping grains.

Check out my recipe underneath my avatar.