Maine Beer Co. Lunch IPA clone?

[user 141939]

Also not too worried about a dry beer. I always actually struggle with over attenuation so getting a dry beer is easy for me[emoji4]

 

[Schemy]

I emailed MBC about the yeast, and the reply I got back says they use wyeast 1056.

So take that for what it's worth.

 

[bferullo]

I changed the recipe somewhat before I brewed it to put most of the mid-boil bops into a flameout and then i did a hop-stand for around 20-30 minutes. It came out nicely, but not very much like Lunch.

I know some people have had good luck with flameouts w/ hopstands, but to be honest I always get a slight vegetal taste when I load up on flameout hops like that. I read else where that they bitter with magnum and then do equal amounts of centennial, simcoe, amarillo every 15 minutes.

If I was going to make this again (probably will but not right away), I'd go with the following:

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 7.50 gal
Post Boil Volume: 6.37 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.25 gal
Estimated OG: 1.065 SG
Estimated Color: 8.0 SRM
Estimated IBU: 53.6 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 58.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 73.8 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
13 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)
2 lbs Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)
8.0 oz White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM)
0.20 oz Warrior [16.00 %] - First Wort 60.0 min
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 30.0 min
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min
0.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool
0.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool
1.0 pkg London Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1028)
1.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days
1.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days
1.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days

Just throwing in my 2 cents....

I would look to tweak the hopping schedule and yeast. I would use a neutral yeast like 1056 or S05 or whatever then WL is (I think 001).

As far has hopping goes, I have found that lots of late additions makes the bang for your buck and best results. Usually I tend to FWH for almost my entire amount of desired IBU. In this case It would be warrior. Then at about 10 minutes I will do some additions to get my remainder IBUs but more so the flavors. Finally I usually add a huge chunk of hops (however you want to blend the flavors associated with those hops) as the wort is cooling. I shoot for a temp around 140 degrees. No real science here, heard it on a few pod casts and tried it and it worked for me. I don't end up with vegetal tastes and the flavor/aroma seems to last longer. Lastly I only dry hop for a few days.

I have also found, that a lot of craft breweries who list their ingredients list all teh things used over all the iterations. I don't know if all the hops listed on the web site are needed to get something close.

All in all, brew what tastes good to you whatever your process. Enjoy!!!

 

[jnacey]

I emailed MBC about the yeast, and the reply I got back says they use wyeast 1056.

So take that for what it's worth.

I wonder if they've adapted it to their brewery over successive generations. The attenuation that they report is much higher than 1056.

Going by the figures on their website, they're getting 91% attenuation, 1056 is a mid-high 70% attenuator. Either their website is incorrect, or their strain is much more voracious than the retail 1056.

 

[jnacey]

Just throwing in my 2 cents....

I would look to tweak the hopping schedule and yeast. I would use a neutral yeast like 1056 or S05 or whatever then WL is (I think 001).

As far has hopping goes, I have found that lots of late additions makes the bang for your buck and best results. Usually I tend to FWH for almost my entire amount of desired IBU. In this case It would be warrior. Then at about 10 minutes I will do some additions to get my remainder IBUs but more so the flavors. Finally I usually add a huge chunk of hops (however you want to blend the flavors associated with those hops) as the wort is cooling. I shoot for a temp around 140 degrees. No real science here, heard it on a few pod casts and tried it and it worked for me. I don't end up with vegetal tastes and the flavor/aroma seems to last longer. Lastly I only dry hop for a few days.

I have also found, that a lot of craft breweries who list their ingredients list all teh things used over all the iterations. I don't know if all the hops listed on the web site are needed to get something close.

All in all, brew what tastes good to you whatever your process. Enjoy!!!

I totally agree with you. I've since switched all my IPAs to half of the IBUs at FWH and the remainder in whirlpool.

 

[RedOktoberfest]

I wonder if they've adapted it to their brewery over successive generations. The attenuation that they report is much higher than 1056.



Going by the figures on their website, they're getting 91% attenuation, 1056 is a mid-high 70% attenuator. Either their website is incorrect, or their strain is much more voracious than the retail 1056.

I've calculated over 90% with 1056 before. I pulled out all the tricks in the book but it happened. Low sac rest, 2nd shot of O2 at 12hrs in fermenter, sugar add at high krausen.

 

[hopsandhops]

I brewed a version of Peeper and Lunch with yeast harvested from 3 MBC bottles and the attenuation they list is definitely attainable with their strain. I also measured the FGs of those 2 brews and the stats they list on their website are accurate, as far as I can tell.

I don't have my notes with me, but IIRC Lunch had a FG around 1.007 and Peeper was 1.005.

 

[Catphish]

I'm kind of thinking they use may be using wlp 008 east coast ale. I've had many beers attenuate down to 1.007-8 by using pure O2 and a little sugar.

 

[lilbova3]

I'm going to try to rebrew this within the next couple of weeks. Their attenuation is pretty ridiculous, even with a low mash temp, unless you add corn sugar. I'm just going to use a more attenuative yeast (WLP090 Super San Diego) and mash low and just accept a higher FG.

Est OG: 1.061
Est FG: 1.008
ABV: 7%
IBU: 57
SRM: 6

81.5% Pale Malt
7.40% Munich Malt
3.70% Carapils
3.70% Caramel 40L
3.70% White Wheat Malt

1.0oz Magnum @ FWH
2.0oz Amarillo @ Flameout
2.0oz Centennial @ Flameout
2.0oz Simcoe @ Flameout
2.0oz Amarillo @ Dry Hop 4 Days
2.0oz Centennial @ Dry Hop 4 Days
2.0oz Simcoe @ Dry Hop 4 Days

1000ml starter of WLP090

Mash @ 148f for 60 minutes

I'll post my results -- probably be like two months or so.

I've been having great results recently with putting half of my flameout hops in at flameout. Then I start chilling and once the wort drops below 180f, I dump the rest of the flameout hops in and stir pretty vigorously. Then, I do a huge dry hop for a short period. I use a paint strainer bag when transferring to my bottling bucket to strain out all of the hop mass.

After carbing, they're a touch on the "vegetal" side for a few days, but usually by 3 weeks in the bottle that has aged out and you get a huge, "hop flavor" bomb with restrained bitterness.

How did this turn out with that hop schedule? Taste pretty good?

 

[lilbova3]

I wonder if they get their dry, yet sweet finish from a high sulfate? Maybe 300+?

 

[lilbova3]

I'm going to try to rebrew this within the next couple of weeks. Their attenuation is pretty ridiculous, even with a low mash temp, unless you add corn sugar. I'm just going to use a more attenuative yeast (WLP090 Super San Diego) and mash low and just accept a higher FG.

Est OG: 1.061
Est FG: 1.008
ABV: 7%
IBU: 57
SRM: 6

81.5% Pale Malt
7.40% Munich Malt
3.70% Carapils
3.70% Caramel 40L
3.70% White Wheat Malt

1.0oz Magnum @ FWH
2.0oz Amarillo @ Flameout
2.0oz Centennial @ Flameout
2.0oz Simcoe @ Flameout
2.0oz Amarillo @ Dry Hop 4 Days
2.0oz Centennial @ Dry Hop 4 Days
2.0oz Simcoe @ Dry Hop 4 Days

1000ml starter of WLP090

Mash @ 148f for 60 minutes

I'll post my results -- probably be like two months or so.

I've been having great results recently with putting half of my flameout hops in at flameout. Then I start chilling and once the wort drops below 180f, I dump the rest of the flameout hops in and stir pretty vigorously. Then, I do a huge dry hop for a short period. I use a paint strainer bag when transferring to my bottling bucket to strain out all of the hop mass.

After carbing, they're a touch on the "vegetal" side for a few days, but usually by 3 weeks in the bottle that has aged out and you get a huge, "hop flavor" bomb with restrained bitterness.

Anybody have an update on how clone recipe came out, or their own rendition of it?

 

[user 141939]

Mine was way not hoppy enough and not dry enough. If i do it again i will do it pretty close to the recipe you quoted. I also might consider adding some suger.

 

[hopsandhops]

I brewed an attempt at this last November with harvested MBC yeast. 6 gal batch. I read somewhere that they add hop additions every 15 mins; the amounts were a guess, as were the grain %s

OG:1.059
FG: 1.007 (I measured the real lunch and it was 1.007 as well)

86% 2 row
5% Munich 10
3.5% C40
3.5% Red Wheat
2% Carapils

.25 oz Warrior FWH (60 min boil)
1/8 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 45
1/8 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 30
.75 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 15
.75 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 15
.75 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 0
.75 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial WP (my notes aren't clear here... maybe 20 mins around 180*?)

1.5 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial 6 day dry hop in fermentor
.5 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial dry hop in keg

The color was juuust off. The real thing was more amber/orange, and slightly less hazy. I never rebrewed this, but it was close. It wasn't exact, but it had a very similar character. My gf and I both preferred the homebrewed version, in fact, she guessed wrong in a blind tasting!

Here are my tasting notes from an AB with the real thing. Mine had been in the keg for about a week. The real Lunch is on the right in both pics. Those pics showed the appearance differences best. I have a couple pics that look virtually identical.



11/30: AB with real Lunch dated 11/04/2014

Real Lunch: More grapefruit; lacking aroma, most likely due to age; cleaner, smoother bitterness. Definitely slightly darker and more orangy in color. More of a cohesive, Lunchy orange, richness. Need a fresher example.

Homebrew Lunch: More simcoe/amarillo flavor; more dank/weed flavor; more of a sharp bitterness, my guess is the high sulfate/chloride levels. Will try the pliny profile next brew; also up the c40 % to make up the difference in the slightly lighter color. Probably up the late hops and add a 5 or 2 min addition; also change Warrior to 60 min instead of FWH. This has a sweeter component than the real thing, which is a surprise with how dry this brew is. Jen guessed wrong; very surprised with this comparison.

Next time: Try upping all grain %s to 5% each

 

[wixziu]

I still have a few bottles of Lunch leftover from my vacation to Maine last month and I really wanted to make an attempt at cloning while I still have some relatively fresh comparison. I used "hopsandhops" recipe and the other suggestions in this thread for a 6.5 gallon batch and just moved the fermenter into the basement. OG came out to 1.062.

83% Pal Malt 2 row
5% Munich 10L
5% Caramel 40L
5% Red Wheat
2% Carapils

.25 oz Nugget FWH (60 min boil) - Substituted b/c I had it available
1/8 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 45
1/8 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 30
.75 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 15
.75 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 15
.75 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial @ 0
.75 oz each Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial WP (20 min @ 180...I don't have a good means to do a whirlpool so I essentially used a hopstand)

I created a 2L yeast starter of Wyeast 1056. Mashed at 148 for one hour, shooting for a drier beer to bring the hop profile forward. I tried to compare the wort to the real thing, and i think this should turn out a pretty good approximation. I'll let you know how I make out!

 

[hopsandhops]

Keep us posted! I used harvested MBC yeast on my batch and a clone of Peeper I attempted and it has massive attenuation

 

[pretzelb]

Anyone know if the brewer changed the recipe? We were at the brewery back in August and got a sample platter. We were surprised that we didn't fight over the Lunch sample. In the past it was the favorite but this trip it wasn't all that special.

 

[wixziu]

To give you an update on my earlier post, I have not quite hit the mark on this one. The recipe still turned out great, but not as close to a clone as I would have hoped.

Lunch sample was bottled early Sept. and both samples were consumed cold (~40), next time I will warm them up first! Homebrew was on primary for 3 weeks, with the last 6 days dry-hopped. In the keg for about a week and half.

Lunch is on the left, Homebrew on the right.

Appearance
- The homebrew is a darker orange, next time I would cut down on crystal malts a tad. I think probably hopsandhops original recipe w/ 3.5% C40 is probably the way I will go next time.

Smell
- Lunch was definitely more aromatic (grapefruit). That being said, it was the same aroma as the homebrew. A better dry hopping process might help. Possibly dry hop in the keg next time? I think I would have gotten better results aroma-wise by bottling.

Taste
- Lunch was a thinner body than the homebrew, with more upfront bittering. The bittering hits the tongue immediately. I was surprised by this because I thought I had mashed too low. More "bite" as well, possibly from carbonation levels.
- The homebrew had a "smoother" bittering, meaning it transitioned to bitter a little bit slower. I got more malt up front, with a bitter finish.
- Relatively clean aftertaste in both samples. Bittering didn't linger long.

Mouthfeel
- Lunch was definitely thinner, but this works with the bittering that they have achieved.
- I carbonated homebrew at 2.48 volumes of CO2 for reference.

I think Wyeast 1056 was a good choice for the yeast, my FG was 1.008 using this strain. Or S-05 if you prefer dry. This is a very clean beer, so it would make sense that they used a clean yeast. The staff at MBC did tell me that they used a commercially available strain (I'm not sure if that means available to homebrewers or not).

Hopefully, I can attempt this again in the near future!

 

[berley31]

Hey guys,

I recently posted on my blog about my attempt; recipe came from an apparent picture someone sent me months ago from the MBC brew log!

I included a side by side with a fresh bottle, too; came out very close.

http://meekbrewingco.blogspot.com/2016/11/brewing-maine-beer-co-lunch-clone-no-8.html

 

[wixziu]

Great! Thanks for posting, I'll give this recipe a try next. Just have to finish off the full keg....

Do you think there is a benefit to using Centennial for the bittering hops vs. anything else? I do notice that you dropped the 40L and Munich a bit from what I used (5%) so I will try that next time.

I also see you added the acid malt, do you think this is necessary? I had good conversion with mine, actually overshooting the ABV a tad (1.062 > 1.008). I did not test the pH, however, as I don't have a meter and I can never read those damn strips.

 

[berley31]

Great! Thanks for posting, I'll give this recipe a try next. Just have to finish off the full keg....

Do you think there is a benefit to using Centennial for the bittering hops vs. anything else? I do notice that you dropped the 40L and Munich a bit from what I used (5%) so I will try that next time.

I also see you added the acid malt, do you think this is necessary? I had good conversion with mine, actually overshooting the ABV a tad (1.062 > 1.008). I did not test the pH, however, as I don't have a meter and I can never read those damn strips.

I can't see the bittering addition making a difference; I'm sure it's fine to use whatever you'd like to the same IBUs.

The acid malt is necessary for my water profile, but may not be for yours. Do you know your water profile?

 

[wixziu]

I am actually waiting for the results of a water test I sent in. I am fairly certain my water is on the hard side, with a lot of mineral content. Despite mashing on the low side at about 148-149 degress, my clone attempt still seemed like a heavier body than the original. Also, I've had similar results in all the beers that I've made...always seem malt forward despite changes to process. Do you think this could impact aromatics?

 

[berley31]

I am actually waiting for the results of a water test I sent in. I am fairly certain my water is on the hard side, with a lot of mineral content. Despite mashing on the low side at about 148-149 degress, my clone attempt still seemed like a heavier body than the original. Also, I've had similar results in all the beers that I've made...always seem malt forward despite changes to process. Do you think this could impact aromatics?

I'm no expert, but personally I believe water can affect basically every aspect of beer, to at least some degree!

Your recipe certainly doesn't look like it would give a beer with a full body, especially mashing at 148 F or so. Have you ever directly taken a mash pH? Once you get your water profile, you should be able to calculate it fairly accurately based on your mash and water specs.

 

[wixziu]

Well I just got the water report back and from my limited knowledge of water chemistry it seems like I have two issues: sulfates and bicarbonates.

The sulfates are on the low end, so I'm wondering if this could explain the perceived bitterness issues I've noticed? Maybe aromatics as well?

The bicarbonates are on the high end, which explains the malt character I've tasted in my beers. It sounds like I could modify the mash pH using salts as a corrective measure. Or dilute the water with RO water. I will try my hand at some corrections with Bru'n Water and see where it gets me!