Lost in the Sauce

[Hobbyshop]

I've been brewing for the last 5 years using the well water at my home in CT. I finally ordered a water test from Ward Labs (I know, I know, shoulda been done long ago) and despite a lot of reading on the topic I'm still not sure what I'm dealing with. Here's the profile (ppm):

Sodium 11
Potassium 5
Calcium 53
Magnesium 28
Total Hardness 249
Sulfate 7
Chloride 83
Carbonate <1.0
Bicarbonate 148
Total Alkalinity 122

From what I've read the sulfate level seems crazy low, especially for the hoppy beers I like to brew. Brewer's Friend calculator is saying it should be more like 150, so should I load up on the gypsum? Otherwise the levels don't seem too out of whack but I'm just not sure.

I'd appreciate any input on what adjustments might be recommended for a balanced profile leaning toward hop forward.

 

[Yooper]

The bicarbonate is high, so you'll need some acid to reduce that first of all. You will find with lighter colored grainbills, you will need some in the mash, and you definitely need to reduce it to near 0 for sparging water.

You can use phosphoric or lactic acid, but I'd probably choose phosphoric acid in your case because lactic acid can cause some taste impacts in larger amounts.

When you use Brewer's Friend, go into the advanced water calculator, because you'll want to ensure your mash pH is 5.3- 5.4 or so for a pale ale or IPA. Once you tackle that, you can add gypsum to increase your sulfate level. I'd start at no more than 150 ppm of sulfate at first, and see how you like the results.

The chloride and magnesium are already on the high side, so you don't want to add more of those.

 

[Hobbyshop]

The bicarbonate is high, so you'll need some acid to reduce that first of all. You will find with lighter colored grainbills, you will need some in the mash, and you definitely need to reduce it to near 0 for sparging water.

You can use phosphoric or lactic acid, but I'd probably choose phosphoric acid in your case because lactic acid can cause some taste impacts in larger amounts.

When you use Brewer's Friend, go into the advanced water calculator, because you'll want to ensure your mash pH is 5.3- 5.4 or so for a pale ale or IPA. Once you tackle that, you can add gypsum to increase your sulfate level. I'd start at no more than 150 ppm of sulfate at first, and see how you like the results.

The chloride and magnesium are already on the high side, so you don't want to add more of those.

 

[JimRausch]

To me, the magnesium seems quite high- does your water taste like you're sucking on a nickel? I'd dilute it with D2O or RO water to decrease that down to below 10, then add back CaS04(gypsum) to build the sulfate and calcium back up to where you want it. The dilution will also decrease the alkalinity so you won't need as much acid.

 

[Hobbyshop]

Thanks, Yooper, very helpful. Guess I've been flying blind all these years and have been more or less randomly adding salts based on what I thought was "right" for the style - e.g., gysum when I make a west coast IPA, calcium chloride for an east coast.

I've noticed a harshness in the bitterness of my hoppier beers, even with mostly late addition/post boil hops. Could that be attributable to the high bicarb?

 

[Hobbyshop]

To me, the magnesium seems quite high- does your water taste like you're sucking on a nickel? I'd dilute it with D2O or RO water to decrease that down to below 10, then add back CaS04(gypsum) to build the sulfate and calcium back up to where you want it. The dilution will also decrease the alkalinity so you won't need as much acid.

 

[Hobbyshop]

Haven't really noticed a mineral taste, Jim, but again maybe it's part of the astringency I'm getting in my hoppier beers?

 

[Yooper]

Thanks, Yooper, very helpful. Guess I've been flying blind all these years and have been more or less randomly adding salts based on what I thought was "right" for the style - e.g., gysum when I make a west coast IPA, calcium chloride for an east coast.

I've noticed a harshness in the bitterness of my hoppier beers, even with mostly late addition/post boil hops. Could that be attributable to the high bicarb?

Yes. The high alkalinity is most likely the cause of the harshness. If you use acid (or dilute with RO water) to get a mash pH of 5.3-5.5 AND make sure you neutralize the alkalinity of the sparge water, that harshness will disappear. A firm bitterness is what you want- not harsh or biting.

Haven't really noticed a mineral taste, Jim, but again maybe it's part of the astringency I'm getting in my hoppier beers?

High magnesium will generally cause a "sour" taste. You're not at what I would consider the maximum to have in the water before it reaches that taste threshold (generallly 30 ppm or under is ok).

I wrote these articles a while back (part III is coming out this week) and this portion of part II covers alkalinity. You may find it helpful.