Looking to convert

[doug293cz]

I believe I may have found a mistake on the drawing. I think the wires from the Auber DSPR3x0 to the 40A SSR for the HLT element are reversed. terminal 3 on the SSR should go to terminal 7 on the DSPR3x0 and terminal 4 on the SSR should go to terminal 6 on the DSPR3x0.

I have a question about the lamp on the element on/off switches. If the small red jumper on the right side was moved to the left side and the white wire on the left side was moved to the right side, would that cause the lamp to turn on indicating that switch would now be operational when the element selector switch was positioned to allow that particular element to be turned on? The light at the outlet for the element would then indicate when the element was actually powered on. I hope I'm explaining that clearly.

You are correct about the SSR control wiring for the HLT. Don't know how I got that one wrong, and the other two correct. Thanks for pointing this out. I will go back and correct.

If you move the jumpers on the element enable switches, then the lamps will indicate when there is power to the switch, regardless of the position of the switch. As they are currently wired, they indicate when the particular switch is turned on AND the switch is receiving power from the "any 2 of 3 switch" - they let you know when power is actually enabled to the particular element. The lamps in parallel with the elements indicate when the elements are actually receiving power via the SSRs.

Brew on

 

[bpaulik]

Thank you again Doug for all the work you put into this drawing.

I have made the first purchase of components needed to build the panel. I know I have a long way to go to get everything I need but a little at a time as I have the extra money to put towards it.

 

[bpaulik]

Well progress is being made, slow but, progress. DIN rail blocks still need to be confirmed since I know some changes need to be made as well as I'm going to have to add a few more but, still waiting for them to be delivered. Added a few things to the original plan as well. I added a Timer PID, AMP Meter and indicator lights to let me know which elements (2 of the 3) are enabled with the position of the switch. That way it is very clear which ones can be powered on.

Let me know your thoughts.

 

[bpaulik]

I know the drawing states 6 AWG but can i get away with an 8 AWG on the ground? The reason I ask is I can get an RV 50 amp cord a lot cheaper then the 6/4 SOOW cord.

 

[doug293cz]

I know the drawing states 6 AWG but can i get away with an 8 AWG on the ground? The reason I ask is I can get an RV 50 amp cord a lot cheaper then the 6/4 SOOW cord.

I would say yes, as the ground doesn't normally carry any current, and at worst should only carry current for a short fault condition. I don't know what code says about this.

Brew on

 

[RufusBrewer]

Strictly speaking, it may not be to code . . . . .

Can you establish a new ground/earth reference by driving a new grounding rod at a point local the brewing location?

 

[doug293cz]

Strictly speaking, it may not be to code . . . . .

Can you establish a new ground/earth reference by driving a new grounding rod at a point local the brewing location?

But then again, it might be. I seem to remember something about thinner ground lines being allowed, but I just don't know for sure. We really need a code wonk to weigh in.

Brew on

 

[bpaulik]

Strictly speaking, it may not be to code . . . . .

Can you establish a new ground/earth reference by driving a new grounding rod at a point local the brewing location?

I guess if I needed to go to that extent of installing a new grounding rod I would just spend the extra money on the 6/4 SOOW cord.

I think I will go with the 6/4 SOOW cord since going the other router is not a huge cost savings especially when you look at how much money goes into building a new control panel anyway. Also, that way I know I will be covered.

 

[bpaulik]

So, I have the control panel wired up and have put power to it and it seems to be working as it should. Going to have to figure out how to use the new EZBoil controlers compaired to my old PID controllers. Hopefully do a test run with just water in the next week or two.

 

[bpaulik]

I have been playing with the new controllers to attempt to learn them since they are a lot more detailed than my old PID controllers. I have been testing with just water and it seems that the mash temp is overshooting more than I think it should. If I have the mash temp set for 152, I have seen that it is getting up to 154/155.

My current setup is a 1.5 inch RIMS tube which is 16 inches long. The temp sensor is 2.36 inches long with a 12 inch 3500 watt heating element (so really only about 10.75 inches inside the RIMS tube).

Not sure if the distance between the element and the temp sensor, 3500 watt element or a setting in the DSPR320 would be causing the larger temp swings. Or if this would be considered normal.

 

[doug293cz]

Yes, the distance between the temp sensor and the end of the element is probably a big part of the overshoot issue. Distance translates into time delay between the actual temperature and when the temp is detected. Neither PIDs nor EZBoils can control overshoot when there are significant time delays. One way to address the problem is to significantly reduce the power which will reduce overshoot, but that will slow down heat up. Not a good solution. The best solution is to have the active tip of the temp sensor be about 1/4" away from the end of the heating element of a RIMS tube, and at the output end. This minimizes time delay between temp changes and their detection, which lets the controller do its job much better.

Brew on

 

[bpaulik]

Thanks, I will have to take a look and see what I can do to shorten the distance between the element and tip of the temp sensor.

 

[bpaulik]

So I purchased a 6" temp probe and that has defiantly took care of the issue. Thanks

 

[bpaulik]

Maiden brew day this evening with the all electric conversion. Fingers crossed that everything goes smoothly. Brewing a 15 gallon batch of Amber Ale.

 

[doug293cz]

Maiden brew day this evening with the all electric conversion. Fingers crossed that everything goes smoothly. Brewing a 15 gallon batch of Amber Ale.

Good luck. Really want to hear how this goes.

Brew on

 

[bpaulik]

Well, things went pretty smooth other than self-inflicted issues due to too much talking. Very happy with how everything went.

 

[bpaulik]

Getting ready to brew another batch on the newly converted system. This will be an American Stout this time. This is batch number three. So far things have gone really well with the other batches.

Also going to add a steam condenser. I have it built but still not ready to use it since I have to figure out a way to use the hop basket that normally hangs on the side of the kettle but, with leaving the lid on, I have nowhere to hang it.