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The design below has been modified for 50A service and (2X) 5500W elements. The main power contactor needs to change to have a 50A rating. The high current wiring prior to the 30A fuses/breakers needs to go from 10AWG to 6AWG. The 3PST pump switch changes to DPDT. The L6-15/L5-20 receptacle changes to an L6-30.



View attachment 386823



Brew on :mug:


That looks great. Thank you @ doug293cz. You have definitely gone above what I was looking to accomplish. I am looking forward to building this. Now the fun of purchasing all the parts and waiting for them to arrive and get started.
 
Haven't seen p-j on here for a while and I have a question to ask so maybe someone else might know: I need a DPST switch (240v-25a) for a scematic that pj drew out for me awhile back. He shows a toggle switch from grainger but was wondering if I could use this instead?.The toggle switch kinda looks jenky, kinda 70's
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MPPTB...t=&hvlocphy=9016866&hvtargid=pla-273780320131
Any other ideas are welcome!
wimpy
 
Haven't seen p-j on here for a while and I have a question to ask so maybe someone else might know: I need a DPST switch (240v-25a) for a scematic that pj drew out for me awhile back. He shows a toggle switch from grainger but was wondering if I could use this instead?.The toggle switch kinda looks jenky, kinda 70's
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MPPTB...t=&hvlocphy=9016866&hvtargid=pla-273780320131
Any other ideas are welcome!
wimpy

Yes, the 3032 model switches are fine when you need a DPST for 30A or less.

Brew on :mug:
 
FWIW: I have a zip file from 2012 that has a number of PJ's drawings on it. I assume I got it from here as this is the only forum I go to. There are 163 files in the zip but there does seem to be about 4 copies of each drawing. If anyone is interested, and I'm not overstepping anything here, I would be happy to pass it on.

Dave
 
I would love a copy of your archive!

I thought I downloaded a bunch of them when this thread started, but Drat! I can not find them!

How do you plan to distribute?
 
FWIW: I have a zip file from 2012 that has a number of PJ's drawings on it. I assume I got it from here as this is the only forum I go to. Yes are 163 files in the zip but there does seem to be about 4 copies of each drawing. If anyone is interested, and I'm not overstepping anything here, I would be happy to pass it on.

Dave

Yes please.
 
Does anyone have a copy of the diagram for the following?

I need a 30 amp, two element, two PID, 2 pump.
 
Does anyone have a copy of the diagram for the following?

I need a 30 amp, two element, two PID, 2 pump.

I have a complete pdf archive of PJ's website from a couple years ago at home. Only problem is it is an 80+ MB file so won't email too well. I can look later this evening and see if I can find what you are looking for.
 
I have a complete pdf archive of PJ's website from a couple years ago at home. Only problem is it is an 80+ MB file so won't email too well. I can look later this evening and see if I can find what you are looking for.

If there's any way you can get the file to me I'll be glad to host all of the diagrams on my website. That might help others looking in the future. Over two years ago I built my EBIAB from one of his diagrams and am really happy with it and would be glad to pay it forward.
 
This has two pumps, but you can just leave out the switch and outlet for one of them. If you don't want the external alarm, you can use the DSPR120 instead of the DSPR300 (both are EZBoil controllers.) Substitute DIN contactors for the non-din contactors specified on the drawing. You can also substitute DIN breakers for the fuses if you wish. It also implements an interlock scheme that prevents the power from being turned on if a pump or element power switch is on.

Note that rather than SW1 switches that are 2NO, you really need to use SW11 which are 1NO/1NC if you want to implement the interlock.

View attachment 385327

Brew on :mug:

doug293cz, I was wondering if you already had a diagram setup like this, but for 20A, 120V? My outlet is 15A, but I would like to setup the controller box to support 20A.

I really like the layout of your diagrams, and I am looking to do a RIMS setup soon.

I already have the TopsFlo TD5 pump, which is rated at 24V, 1.4A, and 35W. I would most likely get either a 1500W, 120V, 12.5A element, or get the 5500W 240, but run it at 120V for 1400W at 11.7A.

I planned on a similar design as the one I quoted, just not 30A or 2 pumps. If you have one that already has 2 pumps, I have no issue using that as it is easy enough to figure out what to leave out.

I just want to make sure I have everything straight for what to purchase, and what should be setup with a fuse. I am pretty sure I know, and I would really appreciate your help \ feedback.

I searched and could not find anything that you posted that was similar except for the 30A layout.

Thanks for any help you can provide, and for the help that you provide this community!!!
 
I am very interested in both of the collections being mentioned recently and would like to help make sure they are never lost or hard to find in the future.

Maybe @zazbnf and @pdavidc could upload their collections to a filehost like this to start with:

http://www.zippyshare.com/

That would be easier to share with the current group of people who are interested (including myself) and give a chance for some of us to get them to a more permanent storage space (most of the free file hosts delete after 30 days of no downloads)

Just a thought.
 
I have website space I can host as well. Having more than one place to host would reduce the chances of losing all of them.
 
If there's any way you can get the file to me I'll be glad to host all of the diagrams on my website. That might help others looking in the future. Over two years ago I built my EBIAB from one of his diagrams and am really happy with it and would be glad to pay it forward.

I sent you a pm with a link for the file.
 
FWIW: I have a zip file from 2012 that has a number of PJ's drawings on it. I assume I got it from here as this is the only forum I go to. There are 163 files in the zip but there does seem to be about 4 copies of each drawing. If anyone is interested, and I'm not overstepping anything here, I would be happy to pass it on.

Dave

Dave,
I'd be interested in seeing those diagrams. I'm working on a hybrid gas/rims tube system. I PMd you my email if you don't mind sending me the zip file

Vic
 
http://www.filedropper.com/pjmuthimages

A lot of extra stuff in there but a lot of diagrams as well. Way back when PJ first mentioned this might go down I just set Acrobat to download the entire site.

glad you grabbed it. Wanted to go back over some of his diagrams and was sad to see he hasn't been active in several years and the links are down. Thanks!

And PJ, thank you for taking all the time. God Bless and Rest in Peace :mug:
 
+1

empty glass.jpg
 
You could leave out the Element Firing LED indicator lamp, but then you could miss out on an SSR failure (they tend to fail in the on state.) You could also leave out the fuses if you use 10AWG wire to deliver power to the PID. By the way, this is one of my designs.

Here's the one pump version of the drawing, which also uses a newer, better controller.

View attachment 385246

Note that adding a 120V pump requires a four wire power feed vs. the three wire feed used by the 240V only (no pump) design.

Brew on :mug:

I just started looking for a simple system to control a DIY BIAB 240V system with one pump, and I think this diagram is right for that application.

I have three questions:
1) I plan on plugging this into a 3-wire dryer outlet through a spa panel to give a 4 wire system with GFCI - would that work for input to this?
2) Can the spa panel be portable - i.e. not affixed to my house?
3) I need to get about 20 feet away from the outlet to get outside.
Assuming I use the proper gauge wire, what is the better plan - keep the spa panel closer to the outlet and then run an extension cord or keep the spa panel closer to the control box and run an extension cord from the outlet to the spa panel?
 
I just started looking for a simple system to control a DIY BIAB 240V system with one pump, and I think this diagram is right for that application.

I have three questions:
1) I plan on plugging this into a 3-wire dryer outlet through a spa panel to give a 4 wire system with GFCI - would that work for input to this?
Yes
2) Can the spa panel be portable - i.e. not affixed to my house?
Yes, it should be "portable." The 3 wire to 4 wire circuit is not code compliant, so it would be a code violation to have it as part of the fixed structure wiring.
3) I need to get about 20 feet away from the outlet to get outside.
Assuming I use the proper gauge wire, what is the better plan - keep the spa panel closer to the outlet and then run an extension cord or keep the spa panel closer to the control box and run an extension cord from the outlet to the spa panel?
I think it would be more convenient to have the spa panel inside, near the outlet.

Brew on :mug:
 
Just sent that guy the one I had that he didn't.


Feel free to send me them if i am missing some. I compiled them a while ago with all the ones i could find :).

Happy brewing everyone.

**edit** just added that one into the drive as well! Thanks for sending it.
 

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