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I saw one of P-J’s diagrams that had the emergency power off switch controlling a contactor with the NC contact instead of tripping the GFCI. Does anyone know where to find that diagram?
 
Really bummed to bear that THE MAN with so much knowledge and generosity to this site is suffering some health issues! I like to think we're all a family here sometimes!

I've been trying to plan a RIMS Toolbox to work on 120v and I have no clue which diagram to go off of, anyone care to offer some helpful advice if our Buddy P-J is still under the weather? I'd like one with lights to let me know when the element is firing as well as an E-Stop, but I'm not sure if any of the above diagrams match that?
 
Really bummed to bear that THE MAN with so much knowledge and generosity to this site is suffering some health issues! I like to think we're all a family here sometimes!

I've been trying to plan a RIMS Toolbox to work on 120v and I have no clue which diagram to go off of, anyone care to offer some helpful advice if our Buddy P-J is still under the weather? I'd like one with lights to let me know when the element is firing as well as an E-Stop, but I'm not sure if any of the above diagrams match that?

Paul,

Thank you for your kind words.
Here is a diagram that I just finished for you as I did not have one that really fit your description. I hope it matches your needs.

And as always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this helps you in your adventure.

P-J
 
I saw one of P-J’s diagrams that had the emergency power off switch controlling a contactor with the NC contact instead of tripping the GFCI. Does anyone know where to find that diagram?
So sorry. I cannot invision a wiring plan that I made that really fits your description.

Was it perhaps a diagram with a mains power off swirch and contactor to drop all power?

P-J
 
P-J,
I can't remember where I saw the diagram but the style was your's. It was for someone who had bought an EPO switch which only had a NC contact (it seems like it would have been cheaper to buy another switch than to buy a contactor, but he may have already had one). I was going to go that route (using a contactor as the first thing in the box beside the EPO switch) since I'm running a 120V RIMs system just like MyNameIsPaul is planning and the GFCI plug is in the house and I'm brewing in the garage and would hesitate to use the EPO because I would have to go in the house to reset it.
Why do you prefer to trip the GFCI? At first I thought it was because it was cheaper. If the problem that makes you hit the EPO is really something that can shock you, then the GFCI would trip anyway, right?
Anyway, I’m glad that you are feeling better, at least good enough to draw diagrams again. Getting old is not for sissies.
 
Wow! Auber Insturments is awsome.
I finished building my control panel Wed afternoon and when I plugged it in the contactors made this awful racket like I had wired it up as a buzzer. I checked the wiring and everything looked correct. I then wired 120 directly to the coil and it still made the racket so I was really bummed. But get this. Thursday morning I called Auber instruments and told them the problem and let them listen to the racket and Friday's mail had new contactors in it with a prepaid return mailing label. I can only imagine the problem getting this straightened out if I had bought the contactor off of eBay from China. They are quality people to work with.
 
Paul,

Thank you for your kind words.
Here is a diagram that I just finished for you as I did not have one that really fit your description. I hope it matches your needs.

And as always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this helps you in your adventure.

P-J

P-J-

I want to use this scematic with the following exceptions;

-30amp circuit feeding a 3000w element
-Element will be in hlt
-Pump does NOT have to be on to fire the element
-No light for power to the element

If I understand correctly, or not, what I will need to do is;

- Simply omit the light shown next to the element. The heat switch will use the led for on status
- To remove the element dependancy on the pump, the wire leading out of post #8 on the PID will instead lead directly to the relay.

I appreciate your time and feedback.

Regards,
Kevin
 
Kevin-

The diagram would work the same as well just remember everything running 30a needs 10g wiring(contactor, element). And also the plugs and outlets used need to be 30a rated.
 
Newbie question about which diagram to choose. I'm looking for something with 1 PID, 1 120v element, 2 pumps with timer and alarm. Of course an e stop. Any suggestions?

Thank you for the time
 
Have you considered taking the content you've provided here, doing some kind of write up to go with it, and publishing it as an e-book? Once you do that, you could upload it to archive.org and it would be preserved forever. No one would have to worry about who is hosting what.
 
Have you considered taking the content you've provided here, doing some kind of write up to go with it, and publishing it as an e-book? Once you do that, you could upload it to archive.org and it would be preserved forever. No one would have to worry about who is hosting what.

The diagrams are mostly (if not all) done by P-J, so in all fairness to him, any discussion on putting his diagrams into a book or posting them to a permanent archive should have his blessing. Just adding my $0.02
 
I may be missing it here but P-J have you done any diagrams for the Brewtroller systems?

I am building a 2 element 5500w, three vessel, 3 pump, eHERMS system controlled by a OpenTroller DX1.
 
mostly (if not all) done by P-J, so in all fairness to him, any discussion on putting his diagrams into a book or posting them to a permanent archive should have his blessing. Just adding my $0.02
Um, yeah. Who do you think would be writing or at least co-authoring it?
:confused:
 
I hope these diagrams don't disappear. They have shown me just enough to do some damage:cross: I'm in the process of building my panel and without these diagrams I'd be completely lost (who am I kidding, I don't have a clue). Hopefully i can find someone locally to rescue me from this maze of wires. P-J, thank you for your tremendous and thoughtful gift to this community.
 
Forum police! Watch out!

Internet tough guy! Watch out! :rolleyes:

Seriously guy - I'm not trying to police anything, just saying that it's generally considered bad form to take someone's work and publish / reproduce it without their permission - especially someone as helpful as P-J has been.

Um, yeah. Who do you think would be writing or at least co-authoring it?
:confused:

Well, based on your original post, I would have no idea that anyone other than you would write or co-author anything. If you've made contact with P-J and the other diagram producing members of the forum, or if that's your plan, then you certainly made no indication to that point. In which case, we're both saying the same thing, so good for you. :mug:
 
Have you considered taking the content you've provided here, doing some kind of write up to go with it, and publishing it as an e-book? Once you do that, you could upload it to archive.org and it would be preserved forever. No one would have to worry about who is hosting what.

The diagrams are mostly (if not all) done by P-J, so in all fairness to him, any discussion on putting his diagrams into a book or posting them to a permanent archive should have his blessing. Just adding my $0.02

Well, based on your original post, I would have no idea that anyone other than you would write or co-author anything. If you've made contact with P-J and the other diagram producing members of the forum, or if that's your plan, then you certainly made no indication to that point. In which case, we're both saying the same thing, so good for you. :mug:

Actually when I read the post quoted above It sounded to me like he was asking P-J if he had considered collecting and publishing the work. Since P-J has been responding to multiple posts in this thread I read it as part of the conversation with P-J.

While I could have misunderstood his question I came nowhere close to the same conclusion you did. Almost seems like you assumed the worst of the guy.
 
I been looking over the treasure trove of PJ's diagrams here but am not seeing one to apply to my situation. I'm using a bcs-462 and I have 3 5500 watt elements in the BK, 3 more in the HLT and one in a RIMS tube for MT. There would also be two pumps in the mix. I've heard that at 125 amps I could run both BK and MT at same time ,which would be nice for back to back batches. Power is 240v single phase. Has anyone adapted one of the diagrams for this situation?

Thanks
 
thank you, P-J. i'm putting together my build right now and your diagrams have been invaluable. no single diagram captures exactly what i'm doing but everything is so clearly laid out that i can piece together what i need from different diagrams.

your efforts are very, very much appreciated. you have made the electric brewing adventure much less daunting.
 
Paul,

Thank you for your kind words.
Here is a diagram that I just finished for you as I did not have one that really fit your description. I hope it matches your needs.

And as always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this helps you in your adventure.

P-J

Does anyone else miss P-J like I do?! Talk about a wealth of information slipping through our fingers =( !

I was wondering how to take this diagram and add an alarm switch to the PID so I can hit a temperature, alarm goes off, and I can turn the alarm off with a switch. Any takers?
 
MyNameIsPaul said:
Perhaps, but I didn't see one with the alarm.

The very first thread in this post has a bunch of pjs diagrams. In the second one, there is an alarm attached to a pid for reference
 
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