List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[BadNewsBrewery]

There are numerous P-J diagrams with alarms on them. The PIDs are fairly simple on the alarm side, as they're just a switch that opens or closes when a set parameter is met. You wire one leg of your 110v into one of the terminals (If you're using a 2352, power in to Pin 13, then pins 1 and 14 jumper to your alarm). Throw a switch into the feed to Pin 13, or throw a switch in between pins 1 /14 and your buzzer. Then you'll have a switchable alarm.

-Kevin

 

[MyNameIsPaul]

There are numerous P-J diagrams with alarms on them. The PIDs are fairly simple on the alarm side, as they're just a switch that opens or closes when a set parameter is met. You wire one leg of your 110v into one of the terminals (If you're using a 2352, power in to Pin 13, then pins 1 and 14 jumper to your alarm). Throw a switch into the feed to Pin 13, or throw a switch in between pins 1 /14 and your buzzer. Then you'll have a switchable alarm.

-Kevin

Is this how you'd do it?

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

Is this how you'd do it?

There are many ways to achieve your goal, and that is certianly one of them and should work perfectly.

 

[MyNameIsPaul]

There are many ways to achieve your goal, and that is certianly one of them and should work perfectly.

Excellent! Thank you for your help, it's truly appreciated.

 

[meshbackhats]

Is this how you'd do it?

For the Flash buzzer and the on off switch-

my on off switch for the buzzer does not have the numbers 22 21 12 11, it has 1 2 3 4
just not sure what to wire it to?

Thanks

 

[AdamCanFly]

Hey PJ, I just wanted to let you know that I'm going to finish my brewery some day soon. My wife got pregnant and brewing went on the back burner. Now our daughter is 9 months old and we are about to move into a house with a huge workshop. I will finally be able to resume my hobby. You helped me with a diagram a long time ago. Thank you!

 

[Olive Drab]

Is there one out there of a 3 PID, 3 vessel, 2 pump, 30A herms?

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

Mine is 3 PID, 3 Vessel, 2 pump, 50A... wouldn't be hard to modify it to only allow one element to be on at a time for 30a. Check out my build thread, it's in there somewhere...

 

[Olive Drab]

Mine is 3 PID, 3 Vessel, 2 pump, 50A... wouldn't be hard to modify it to only allow one element to be on at a time for 30a. Check out my build thread, it's in there somewhere...

Here is the diagram. switch 1 and 2 would be pulled.
How would I reroute the wires to support a switch to have element 1, off, element 2?
Are any other changes necessary for the 30a?

 

[mrwizard0]

You check out my thread, it's 30a 2 pid. It will show you how to add the switch. Pj put a diagram on the first page

www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/need-help-designing-electric

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

Here is the diagram. switch 1 and 2 would be pulled.
How would I reroute the wires to support a switch to have element 1, off, element 2?
Are any other changes necessary for the 30a?

Get a 3 way switch. Run a hot feed to the common line side, then a line to the HLT contactor and a line to the BK contactor. You'd have either HLT, BK, or OFF but never both. The only other change - you may not need as many breakers.

 

[MyNameIsPaul]

Would 14GA Wire be ok for this build?

 

[P-J]

Would 14GA Wire be ok for this build?

Absolutely - Yes..

 

[smakudwn]

I have a question on the above Diagram...........can I just plug this into a GFI outlet? Or does there need to be a GFI breaker in the main box?

 

[P-J]

I have a question on the above Diagram...........can I just plug this into a GFI outlet? Or does there need to be a GFI breaker in the main box?

Keep in mind that the element draws 17A on 120V. You might need to use a 1600W element instead. Otherwise, Yes, you can plug it directly into a GFCI outlet.

 

[smakudwn]

Ok thank you. Would that be plenty to maintain mash temp on say at the max 10 gallon batches?

 

[P-J]

It should be A-Ok.

 

[Abhitchc]

This is amazingly helpful.

 

[fusa]

Would it be possible to get a diagram similar to this using a 120v 1500W element and 2 pumps?

I just found these diagrams and they make understanding building a control box much easier.

Also what are the parts that are connected the the ground, line and neutral with one wire going in and multiple wires going out?

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

Would it be possible to get a diagram similar to this using a 120v 1500W element and 2 pumps?

Same drawing, just add another switch and outlet next to the other one. It should be easy enough for you to draw, or just do in the field without a drawing as it would be wired exactly the same as the one shown. As for swapping out to a 1500w element, there's really no change to the drawing. Maybe go with a 15a fuse in place of the 20a fuse on the top of the drawing, but otherwise it looks the same.

I just found these diagrams and they make understanding building a control box much easier.

Absoloutely! Check out as many of them as you can and review them until you fully understand what each wire is doing and why it's there and you'll have a great understanding of how these things work.

Also what are the parts that are connected the the ground, line and neutral with one wire going in and multiple wires going out?

These are power distribution blocks, terminal strips, or any variation there in. They allow you to attach multiple wires together and add or remove them as necessary, and are much more secure than just wire-nutting everything together. The type shown is just a bunch of little metal strips with two screws each - attach your line (supply) to one end and your load (whatever you want powered) to the other end and you have power. Note that each little metal tab is separate from the one next to it, so if you want one line wire and multiple load wires, you need to jumper (a short connecting wire) all the little metal tabs together so they all have power.

Good luck with the build!
-Kevin

 

[emjay]

50a 5500 2 Element 4 outlet BCS 460

Would anyone be able to help me take something like this one (I'll be using a BCS-462), and show me how to add control for 2 (so I can see how multiple are connected) automatic valves from the following link? https://www.oscsys.com/store/product/291 - obviously, I'll be adding a 12VDC power source inside the panel.

Also, won't switching these elements to "manual" effectively just run them at 100%? I guess it wouldn't necessarily be a problem for the BK, but the HLT seems to me like it wouldn't be too useful. Would it be reasonable to throw in 2 PIDS for the manual modes of the HLT and the MLT pump, and a PWM for the BK?

 

[Hoppylikerabbits]

Stickey!!!!

 

[LandoLincoln]

Also, won't switching these elements to "manual" effectively just run them at 100%? I guess it wouldn't necessarily be a problem for the BK, but the HLT seems to me like it wouldn't be too useful. Would it be reasonable to throw in 2 PIDS for the manual modes of the HLT and the MLT pump, and a PWM for the BK?

No, not necessarily. Putting a PID into manual mode allows you to select how much heat is being delivered, by percentage. Put it at 100% and the element stays on all the time. Put it at 50% and it's on half the time.

 

[emjay]

No, not necessarily. Putting a PID into manual mode allows you to select how much heat is being delivered, by percentage. Put it at 100% and the element stays on all the time. Put it at 50% and it's on half the time.

I know. But the design uses a BCS without any PIDs, so I'm wondering what the point of manual is UNLESS somebody decides to go to the expense of adding PIDs they likely will never even use anyways. Hence why I asked if doing so would be reasonable...

 

[jeffmeh]

Manual mode is very useful for dialing in the heat to get the desired boil vigor.

 

[emjay]

Manual mode is very useful for dialing in the heat to get the desired boil vigor.

I know...

 

[P-J]

I know...

If you read the legend on the diagram:

Heating elements:
5000W 240 Volts - HLT & Boil

Additionally - A manual override system is show in case of a controller failure.
The system can be used in manual mode without the controller in place.

The manual mode is there in case of a BCS system failure and is also very useful for initial system start up for heating the strike water while you complete the balance of the BCS setup.

If you do not care to use the manual feature - eliminate the function.

Problem solved.

 

[heckels]

So, I'm looking to put together this guy attached. Really stupid question, where does the temp probe plug in? I see receptacles for the pumps but nothing for the temp probe for the mash tun.

I see the temp goes to 4 & 5 on the PID, is P-J just leaving it up to the user how they want to attach (I'd be looking at XLR)?

Thanks!

 

[mrwizard0]

So, I'm looking to put together this guy attached. Really stupid question, where does the temp probe plug in? I see receptacles for the pumps but nothing for the temp probe for the mash tun.

I see the temp goes to 4 & 5 on the PID, is P-J just leaving it up to the user how they want to attach (I'd be looking at XLR)?

Thanks!

That's correct, he just shows where the wires go.

 

[heckels]

Great, thanks!