Lid not right on ferminter...

[downhill_biker]

I brewed my first two batches last night. One is bubbling through the airator the other is not. I washed my hands really well and I popped the top on the bucket and noticed two things.

First, it is ferminting for sure. Has a huge head of foam on it. Second I noticed the lid didn't have any kind of gasket in the rim. Don't they usually have a gasket? The airator also can be at different levels when I push it in but then it quickly evens out water levels indicating that it isn't air tight, right?

Any thoughts would help. I can probably go get a new lid from the local brew shop, should I?

 

[Legin]

You are most likely fine and will not get an infection even if your bucket is not airtight. Most peoples aren't. Your biggest worry is getting an infection by popping off the lid and taking samples or peeking. Every time you do this you are replacing a protective layer of co2 with ambient air that contains bacteria and wild yeast. Let this batch finish with as little interference as possible, and if you still feel unconformable about your bucket not being airtight, then you can replace the lid.

 

[benharper13]

Did you get the bucket from Art's home brew or the Beer nut? If its Arts he doesn't sale the ale pales and the lids are a little weird but they should have a good seal still.

 

[jollytim]

You'll be fine. The lid and airlock aren't mandatory items, only safety devices. Many people have made beer with an open container. If your Grandparents brewed, most likely they only used a cloth over the top of the vessel to keep out debris. As mentioned, the CO2 layer will keep out oxygen. The lid will help keep out debris (and the annoying flying critters). An airlock is only a valve... and another obstacle to keep out critters.

The Mr. Beer kegs don't have airlocks, per say, and they work well at making beer. Basically the same as a loose fitting lid on a bucket. I know it's fun to watch the bubbles, but just because they aren't there doesn't mean things aren't working, or your beer is in jeopardy.

Just leave the beer to do it's thing, it will become beer.

 

[downhill_biker]

Thanks guys. That is very reassuring. I got the pale from the beer nt and once this batch is done I might try and look into something to make it seal better.

 

[ChshreCat]

I have one fermenter that leaks around the lid and I never get a single bubble from the airlock. I still use it and have brewed dozens of batches in it without a single problem child. I only put the airlock on it because it's kind of...traditional to do it. I could probably just stick an undrilled stopper into the airlock hole and be good, but it just doesn't seem right.

 

[downhill_biker]

My instructions on the batches didn't really include a total firmintation time. I was kinda planning on going off when the bubbles stop going. Is this good idea and what should I do for the bucket with no bubbles for a visual.

 

[dfc]

I keep mine in primary for no less than 3 weeks.

 

[downhill_biker]

Kind off topic...but if you don't mind...

What Is the reason for a secondary? I only have the primary firminters. If there is some kind of benefit should I do some kind of transfer where I use my bottling bucket to hold the beer while I clean the primary and then or put it back in the primary bucket again?

 

[Skaggz]

You shouldn't need to worry about using a secondary fermenter unless you are dry hopping, adding fruit after fermentation, or are going to batch condition for several months.

 

[ChshreCat]

My instructions on the batches didn't really include a total firmintation time. I was kinda planning on going off when the bubbles stop going. Is this good idea and what should I do for the bucket with no bubbles for a visual.

Airlock bubbles aren't a good indicator of what's happening in the fermenter. To know when things are done you need to take samples and test them with your hydrometer.

 

[downhill_biker]

Airlock bubbles aren't a good indicator of what's happening in the fermenter. To know when things are done you need to take samples and test them with your hydrometer.

Is this a requirement, or would I be good if I just planned on leaving it in the firminter for 4 weeks?

 

[ArcticBrewer]

You'll be good with 4 weeks in primary, just take a hydrometer sample when you bottle and you can determine the ABV

 

[Brewer_Bob]

Kind off topic...but if you don't mind...

What Is the reason for a secondary? I only have the primary firminters. If there is some kind of benefit should I do some kind of transfer where I use my bottling bucket to hold the beer while I clean the primary and then or put it back in the primary bucket again?

Probably more than you need to know on it here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/secondary-not-john-palmer-jamil-zainasheff-weigh-176837/

Short answer: no need to secondary. Many experienced/award winning brewers here don't do it except for dry hopping or adding stuff like fruit.

 

[ChshreCat]

You SHOULD be good just leaving it for four weeks. But there's always the possibility of a yeast stalling out and appearing done, even after four weeks, and then restarting after you bottle. You should always check with your hydrometer.

 

[downhill_biker]

So how do I determine the batch is done with the hydrometer? I mean I know how to get the abv, but how do I know it's done firminting? Target abv? I know one of mine is supposed to be 5.5 abv but I added 1lb of sugar which I was told increases abv by 1.0.

 

[benharper13]

if it stays the same three days in a row then it is done

 

[ChshreCat]

You want it to be at or near your expected FG and be stable.