Late airlock activity

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
May 20, 2024
Messages
19
Reaction score
4
Location
Bradford
hi all,
My first ever home brew. (Simply larger)
After day 10 I took a reading and it was 1002 which personally sounds bang on from what learnt.
I left it another day and was going t take another hydro reading only to discover the airlock is bubbling again after about every 2 mins.
When I took the lid off I noticed some scum/grain round the edges above the larger could this be the yeast? Maybe when taking my reading have I unsettled it and it’s become lively again?
Please advise and thanks guy and girls.
 
The reading could have caused some off-gassing, which is a fancy term for knocking some of the remaining co2 out of suspension. What type of beer is it, what was the recipe, and what was the yeast? That will help determine if it's already lower than it should be. Scum/grain around the edge is perfectly normal. It's what crawled up the side of the fermenter during fermentation, and dried there after the fermentation died down. We all have the fun of soaking or scrubbing that off.
 
The reading could have caused some off-gassing, which is a fancy term for knocking some of the remaining co2 out of suspension. What type of beer is it, what was the recipe, and what was the yeast? That will help determine if it's already lower than it should be. Scum/grain around the edge is perfectly normal. It's what crawled up the side of the fermenter during fermentation, and dried there after the fermentation died down. We all have the fun of soaking or scrubbing that off.
 
The reading could have caused some off-gassing, which is a fancy term for knocking some of the remaining co2 out of suspension. What type of beer is it, what was the recipe, and what was the yeast? That will help determine if it's already lower than it should be. Scum/grain around the edge is perfectly normal. It's what crawled up the side of the fermenter during fermentation, and dried there after the fermentation died down. We all have the fun of soaking or scrubbing that off.
It was simply larger, it came with the kit I bought as I’m a larger lout lol. Erm sorry I didn’t pay attention to the finer details recipe, yeast etc. all I can say it my first reading was 1040 and yesterday was 1002. I’m unsure what to do leave it longer or bottle it up, what would you say? .
 
When there's a gas head space at the top of the fermenter, that gas will behave according to gas laws -- raise the temp by just a little in the air, it expands, therefore bubbles; also, to a lesser extent, if the local weather barometric pressure changes, the headspace gas will respond; also, if the temp of the fermenter raises just a smidge, the beer temp goes up and will hold (a smidge) less dissolved CO2, therefore bubbles.

AFter 10 days (at what temp was the ferment?) and a reading of 1.002, you are likely ready to bottle.
 
When there's a gas head space at the top of the fermenter, that gas will behave according to gas laws -- raise the temp by just a little in the air, it expands, therefore bubbles; also, to a lesser extent, if the local weather barometric pressure changes, the headspace gas will respond; also, if the temp of the fermenter raises just a smidge, the beer temp goes up and will hold (a smidge) less dissolved CO2, therefore bubbles.

AFter 10 days (at what temp was the ferment?) and a reading of 1.002, you are likely ready to bottle.
I bought a heat pad which is set at 22 24 degrees which has been on all the time, I put a room temp stat on top of the fermenter which has said 23.5 degree all the way through brewing. I’m eager to bottle it up but then thinking should I leave it for the airlock to calm down?
 
1002 is pretty low as @lumpher said, the concern there being infection as some bacteria will take a wort to below 1.000 even.
However, what was the recipe and yeast?
 
These kits and instructions are very short on detail. Plugged my best guesses into Brewer's Friend and got OG = 1.038 and FG = 1.004. The recipe requires the addition of a kg of extra fermentables. Did you use corn sugar, table sugar, LME or beer enhancer?

Anyway, wait a couple of days and check the gravity again. If it hasn't changed it's done.
 
These kits and instructions are very short on detail. Plugged my best guesses into Brewer's Friend and got OG = 1.038 and FG = 1.004. The recipe requires the addition of a kg of extra fermentables. Did you use corn sugar, table sugar, LME or beer enhancer?

Anyway, wait a couple of days and check the gravity again. If it hasn't changed it's done.
1kg of Brewing sugar what came with the kit
 
I think that if you ferment at 20-25C it's probably not really a lager and if it's already at 1.002 there's no reason to give it a stir. Leave it alone. Ignore the airlock. Check the gravity again in a couple of days.
Ok Mac I’ll go with that
I think that if you ferment at 20-25C it's probably not really a lager and if it's already at 1.002 there's no reason to give it a stir. Leave it alone. Ignore the airlock. Check the gravity again in a couple of days.
what temp should you ferment a larger then mate
 
Lagers brewed with proper lager yeasts are usually fermented at lower temperatures; maybe 12-18C or thereabouts. Since the kit instructions tell you to ferment at 20-25C, I'm assuming that they provided an ale yeast and you're really making a cream ale. Not that there's anything wrong with that, especially since I would guess that most people who use these kits don't have a good way to maintain temperatures in the lager range. Was the yeast sachet labeled with a manufacturer and strain name?
 
Lager ferm temp depends on the yeast and the process. Traditional lager temps are 50-54F. However, some yeasts do well in the low 60's (e.g. 34/70). Pressure fermentation can be done at a higher temp, also. If you're using lager yeast and just a regular brewing bucket, 52F (11-12C) is a good temp.
 
Lagers brewed with proper lager yeasts are usually fermented at lower temperatures; maybe 12-18C or thereabouts. Since the kit instructions tell you to ferment at 20-25C, I'm assuming that they provided an ale yeast and you're really making a cream ale. Not that there's anything wrong with that, especially since I would guess that most people who use these kits don't have a good way to maintain temperatures in the lager range. Was the yeast sachet labeled with a manufacturer and strain name?
It says on the instructions brew at 20-25 for best results, 18-20 slow fermentation and 15 and under no fermentation. It just said 10grams yeast on the packet.
 
Yes, I read the instructions. That's why I said that I don't think they provide a lager yeast.

That's what I thought; no help.
What about youngs larger pilsner is this a good brew? Ive bought this also, Again just says malt and barley extract, Invert sugar, Hop extract, Dried Brewing yeast (Beer yeast) prob end up with the same result I’m guessing . Again it says brew between 18-24 Celsius.
 
What about youngs larger pilsner is this a good brew?
No idea really, since I've never brewed or tasted it. Looks like the Youngs' kits may be pre-hopped LME rather than having a separate hop extract in the kit for you to add. Search the forums to find some folks actual experiences with these kits. This thread for example.
 
Did you take a 2nd Gravity reading or did you just notice airlock activity. Airlock activity can be caused by temperature changes, off gassing or a weather system coming into the area changing the air pressure in your town or city. Go by consecutive gravity readings that don't change. RDWHAHB.
 
Back
Top