Lagering a pilsner help?

[simonpt]

I'm going to be taking my pilsner out of the fermenting bin after doing a diacetyl rest into demijohns for lagering ...
Would you prime the demijohns with sugar or wait until bottling ..
Also would demijohns be ok for lagering and im guessing i still fit an airlock on it?
I'm just thinking that surely the yeast won't last long at these temps so priming bottles after a two week lagering period would be pointless?
Advice pls

 

[simonpt]

I'm going to be taking my pilsner out of the fermenting bin after doing a diacetyl rest into demijohns for lagering ...
Would you prime the demijohns with sugar or wait until bottling ..
Also would demijohns be ok for lagering and im guessing i still fit an airlock on it?
I'm just thinking that surely the yeast won't last long at these temps so priming bottles after a two week lagering period would be pointless?
Advice pls

Just thought I'd post some pics too

 

[cactusgarrett]

Would you prime the demijohns with sugar or wait until bottling ..

Are you sealing the demijohns and intending to carb in them? I'm not familiar with them so i don't know if they could hold pressure. Even if they did, I don't know why you would before bottling.

Also would demijohns be ok for lagering and im guessing i still fit an airlock on it?

ANYthing is okay for lagering. Technically you wouldn't need an airlock, since fermentation is done. I lager in sealed kegs, for example.

I'm just thinking that surely the yeast won't last long at these temps so priming bottles after a two week lagering period would be pointless?

It is standard practice to carb after lagering. There will be PLENTY of yeast still in solution to facilitate adequate carb'ing provided the appropriate amount of priming sugar is added.

I don't know if you have a complete grasp on the lagering process, based on your questions. Should look like this:

1. Ferment - usually around 50-60°F, depending on yeast strain.
2. Diacetyl rest - optional. If done, bump up the temp 5°F or so, for 3-7 days. Whatever gets the yeast across the finish line.
3. Slowly (3-5°F per day) drop temp and lager - done in the neighborhood of 33°F for desired time. Often at least 1 month; dependent on OG of the beer.
4. Package: keg or prime/bottle.

 

[simonpt]

Are you sealing the demijohns and intending to carb in them? I'm not familiar with them so i don't know if they could hold pressure. Even if they did, I don't know why you would before bottling.


ANYthing is okay for lagering. Technically you wouldn't need an airlock, since fermentation is done. I lager in sealed kegs, for example.



It is standard practice to carb after lagering. There will be PLENTY of yeast still in solution to facilitate adequate carb'ing provided the appropriate amount of priming sugar is added.

I don't know if you have a complete grasp on the lagering process, based on your questions. Should look like this:

1. Ferment - usually around 50-60°F, depending on yeast strain.
2. Diacetyl rest - optional. If done, bump up the temp 5°F or so, for 3-7 days. Whatever gets the yeast across the finish line.
3. Slowly (3-5°F per day) drop temp and lager - done in the neighborhood of 33°F for desired time. Often at least 1 month; dependent on OG of the beer.
4. Package: keg or prime/bottle.

Cheers yh I'm new at home brewing didn't realise lagers took this amount of work lol I'll probably just place it into demijohns for lagering use an airlock just incase

 

[cactusgarrett]

Yeah, it's not really a whole lot of extra work, just some extra thought and a few steps. Hell, you're already at the d-rest stage, so you just need to drop the temp, lager, then bottle. Nothing extra, really. The steps i mentioned above are really "best case scenario" ones that people have honed over time. All put together give your lager the best chance of being the best it could be. Not following them won't ruin your beer.

Careful if you put on the airlock (3 piece) before dropping the temp. The pressure differential as a result will suck in air and the airlock liquid.

 

[WestMichBrewer]

Yeah, it's not really a whole lot of extra work, just some extra thought and a few steps. Hell, you're already at the d-rest stage, so you just need to drop the temp, lager, then bottle. Nothing extra, really. The steps i mentioned above are really "best case scenario" ones that people have honed over time. All put together give your lager the best chance of being the best it could be. Not following them won't ruin your beer.

Careful if you put on the airlock (3 piece) before dropping the temp. The pressure differential as a result will suck in air and the airlock liquid.

Curious: Why not bottle/carb first before lagering?
Won't there be more active yeast for carbing?

 

[Home_alone1]

Curious: Why not bottle/carb first before lagering?
Won't there be more active yeast for carbing?

I would also like to know , I have a lagger about to go into laggering , if I bottle that would be great to open up room for the next beer

 

[simonpt]

Curious: Why not bottle/carb first before lagering?
Won't there be more active yeast for carbing?

Well technically if you did that your not lagering your just bottle conditioning .
I think part of the lagering process is to clear the beer and develop crispness prior to bottling
Apparently it is advisable to add a little yeast to your lagered beer to aid carbonation during conditioning...
But I think seeing as the whole process is based on low and slow processes id imagine carbonation will happen albeit at a slow rate but I'm just assuming at that lol

 

[simonpt]

I would also like to know , I have a lagger about to go into laggering , if I bottle that would be great to open up room for the next beer

Maybe get another fermentation bucket so you have one spare...
I think im going to split my batch..
4 gallons to be siphoned off for lagering in secondary fermentation
Then the last Gallon I'm going to bottle direct from primary fermentation bin and see the difference for myself

 

[cactusgarrett]

No need to re-yeast unless you've made a huge beer or you've aged for long-term (9 months +).

 

[simonpt]

No need to re-yeast unless you've made a huge beer or you've aged for long-term (9 months +).

Will the yeast still be active at temps between 0-5 °c then ? Just very slow?

 

[imasickboy]

I recommend bottle conditioning at room temp until carbed, then lagering the carbed bottles.

 

[cactusgarrett]

Will the yeast still be active at temps between 0-5 °c then ? Just very slow?

As sick boy said, yeah, you don't let the bottles carb at lagering temps. You need to bring it to room temp for 4-7 days for proper conditioning.

 

[cactusgarrett]

I think im going to split my batch..
4 gallons to be siphoned off for lagering in secondary fermentation
Then the last Gallon I'm going to bottle direct from primary fermentation bin and see the difference for myself

There shouldn't be any difference. In fact, the only difference i would suspect would be potential oxidation of the portion siphoned to a secondary vessel for lagering.

Kick around on here - search for secondary fermenters, etc. General consensus in today's day and age is that secondaries aren't needed, and more likely detrimental.