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Keggle Weld/Build Questions

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^^^I can't believe I hadn't thought of that already, lol! There is a micro brewery 5 mins from my house. Gives me a reason to go up there :rockin:. Thanks!
 
If your considering going weldless have you looked at silver soldering? (is this an electric or gas build?) There's a huge thread sticky in the DIY forum with more info.
 
It will be a gas build at least to begin with, I've looked into silver soldering, but I'd really like to have them welded.
 
Got all my welds completed and couldn't be happier, I'll post the pics as soon as I get them off my phone. Thanks to everyone who posted a response to my questions, the advice I received was and is greatly appreciated. I ended up taking a little more time and found a custom fabrication company to back flush and weld them for me.
 
Photos

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14, planning on building a single teir HERMS system. MLT and BK have 4 total welds each will have a sight glass, thermometer, ball valve and return and HLT has 6, 4 for everything previously mentioned but with two additional for the coil.
 
I just had this welded the other day. How does it look to you guys??
My main worry is the little gap on the inside of the ferrule. This is my book kettle so maybe I'm worrying over nothing? Should I leave it out have someone fill the little seam?

The first 2 pics are the inside of the 2" tri clamp ferrule

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It's on a BK so really it doesn't matter but you can take a Dremel and smooth it out. I would hit it with some Bar Keepers Friend as well.
 
I can't tell but it looks to me like there is a burr on the inside of that fitting. I would use some new sandpaper and clean it up a bit, mostly for safety, I would not want to cut my finger while cleaning my kettle.
 
They need to be cleaned up with a sanding disc, then polished with a scotch brite pad (buff disc). They will rust if you don't.
For everybody that said back purging isn't necessary, sorry, but you're just wrong.
 
Would I call that quality welding? No.
Will it be OK for a boil kettle? Sure.
Obviously the person who welded the ferrules did not shield the back side of the weld.
That is why you see that dirty gray appearance on the inside of the ferrules. The stainless is actually oxidized in that area and is no longer corrosion resistant.
If it doesn't leak than you'll be OK, but those welds can be done correctly and with a much nicer outcome.
Hope you didn't pay too much to have that done.
Don't sweat it though.
 
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