keggle & cost efficiency

[aksea102]

Hi All,
I am currently doing partial boils, extract/steeping grains only. I would really like to start doing full 5 gallon boils, so I will need to upgrade my brew kettle. Now, I can get my hands on a sanke keg fairly easily, so would converting it to a keggle be the most cost efficient purchase? Yes, Ill also have to purchase a new propane burner too-the one I currently use is small, has a restrictive rim and is a P.O.S. anyways.
And what about doing just 5 gallon boils in a keggle? I guess I wonder if a keggle is more along the lines for people doing larger, 10gal boils.
As much as I love the brewpots at the various online stores, it would take me forever to save up for one. Even the "economy" models hurt my wallet!!
Thanks for your thoughts-

 

[Hammy71]

My pot (homemade) is over 20 gallons and I do 5 gallon batches all the time. I think if your a DIYer the keggle is very cost efficient. Buying one outright with all the goodies already installed (valve, thermometer, etc...) will surely raise the cost...but if you search this site.... Almost anything that can be done by yourself is pretty much laid out in simple terms by alot of talented people on this site. With the exception of my pot (that a friend made for me...) most of my brew stuff I made from reading post on this site. You'll be amazed what you can do... Going full boils is a great step up. When I did, I lost that extract twang. With a bigger pot/keggle, you open your horizons to double batches as well as all-grain (if you choose to...).

 

[bendavanza]

10g batches are just about the limit for 15g keggles for boil, unless you are very attentive and or use anti foaming agents like fermcap.
But to answer your real question, yes kegs make great pots and cheap enough, too depending on availability what features you want them to have.
There are a ton of posts about easy cheap ways to cut off the top with an angle grinder using a jig made of wood or PVC pipe, and you can put a ball valve in for pretty cheap as well. There are a ton of posts about drilling the hole, too. If you know a good welder who works with stainless, I'd go that route but there's nothing wrong with a good weldless kit from someone like http://www.greatbargain.net/order/index.html
3/8 is fine but for the small price difference, buy it once and go with 1/2" stainless.
You are bound to keep expanding your brewery. A sight glass and thermometer are nice but not as necessary on a boil kettle.

 

[Catt22]

Keggles are fine for 5 gal batches and I use mine for 12 gal batches regularly without problems. Keggles are generally the biggest bang for the buck, but if cost is not an issue or only a secondary consideration, I would choose a kettle every time. Kettles usually have flat bottoms for better heat distribution, they are generally much lighter making them much easier to move around for cleaning etc. I have one of each, but I plan to retire the keggle eventually and replace it with a 60 qt kettle. The keggle will be retired with honors as it has served me well for a number of years. Keggles are also good projects for the DIY'ers to have fun with.

 

[Sawdustguy]

Keggles are fine for 5 gal batches and I use mine for 12 gal batches regularly without problems. Keggles are generally the biggest bang for the buck, but if cost is not an issue or only a secondary consideration, I would choose a kettle every time. Kettles usually have flat bottoms for better heat distribution, they are generally much lighter making them much easier to move around for cleaning etc. I have one of each, but I plan to retire the keggle eventually and replace it with a 60 qt kettle. The keggle will be retired with honors as it has served me well for a number of years. Keggles are also good projects for the DIY'ers to have fun with.

+1 I use keggles and hate them....I WILL move to kettles the next chance I get. The keggles were inexpensive and have served their purpose.

 

[samc]

Cheap would be an Aluminum pot. I like my keggles but if I was sure I was never going to do more than a 5 gallon batch I doubt I would use them because they are heavy and a bit more difficult to clean than a straight SS or Alum kettle.

Not sure why Guy "hates" them.

 

[beerocd]

A manual electric keggle can come in under a hundred dollars. 50 for the keg, 40 for the element, cord, and nut from bargain fittings. Couple bucks for cutoff wheels. Dual elements and you can stay on 120 if you need to. No more propane refills!!!

-OCD

 

[Bobby_M]

A few things make kegs a less ideal choice.

Heavier.
Tall and skinny, bad for heating efficiency.
Collared bottom traps combustion gases.
Concave bottom requires siphon tube.
Top skirt catches a bunch of junk, grain, boilovers, etc and it's hard to clean.

 

[Catt22]

and the bottom skirt stays red hot for a long time after flame out when used on a propane burner. I spray mine down with water to speed cooling. Keep this in mind when trying to lift a keggle by the skirt. Some have gotten some serious burns doing this long after flameout. Even with gloves on it can be hazardous.

 

[beerocd]

and the bottom skirt stays red hot for a long time after flame out when used on a propane burner. I spray mine down with water to speed cooling. Keep this in mind when trying to lift a keggle by the skirt. Some have gotten some serious burns doing this long after flameout. Even with gloves on it can be hazardous.

That's why you put it on a stainless steel, TIG welded cart, with diamond plating and industrial strength casters. Has anyone motorized thier rig yet?
You know, take a wheelchair, gut it - and park and unpark your rig with style.

-OCD

 

[Sawdustguy]

Cheap would be an Aluminum pot. I like my keggles but if I was sure I was never going to do more than a 5 gallon batch I doubt I would use them because they are heavy and a bit more difficult to clean than a straight SS or Alum kettle.

Not sure why Guy "hates" them.

Maybe "hate" was too harsh word. Lets try severely dislike and pretty much for the same reasons. They are bulky, heavy, they trap heat underneath the bottom crown, non flat bottom, the Kettles with copper sandwiched bottoms conduct heat better. I could go on and on. At first it was a question of cost, so I went with keggles. Now, it is a question of convienence and making the brew day go smoother. I am just waiting for a convienent time to make the swap from keggles to kettles. When I make the swap I will pass them on to my brother who has two kids in college. He can barely afford brewing so maybe I will give him a free kick start. Everyone will be happy.

 

[Catt22]

Has anyone motorized thier rig yet? You know, take a wheelchair, gut it - and park and unpark your rig with style.-OCD

A real man would motorize the rig with a gas engine. You could race them!
Steam power would be even cooler, but the warm up time required might be excessive.

 

[mplutodh1]

I'll admit - a little surprised - so many sculptures and setups on here appear to be using keggles - yet there are several recommendations here to not use keggles.

So, even after a search of the boards - I'm not seeing many folks having luck putting together budget DIY kettles with SS pots from places.

Anyone have suggestions? For those of us in the market right now - who were considering keggles - tips would be great.

 

[wilserbrewer]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/60-qt-aluminum-stock-pot-commercial-heavy-gauge-45-46-a-144579/

 

[Sawdustguy]

I'll admit - a little surprised - so many sculptures and setups on here appear to be using keggles - yet there are several recommendations here to not use keggles.

So, even after a search of the boards - I'm not seeing many folks having luck putting together budget DIY kettles with SS pots from places.

Anyone have suggestions? For those of us in the market right now - who were considering keggles - tips would be great.

If I were you I would go to kegglebrewing.com and give Terry a call. I am not a fan of weldless couplings. Terry can supply you with keggles that have nice tig welded couplings at a fair price.

 

[mplutodh1]

If I were you I would go to kegglebrewing.com and give Terry a call. I am not a fan of weldless couplings. Terry can supply you with keggles that have nice tig welded couplings at a fair price.

Yeah I was actually looking for a welder locally here to do all the welding we need done - (sculpture and keggles) - so looking for someone familiar with welding stainless. If I can find someone for a decent cost - I'll go that route. Just seemed like many of you were not in favor of the keggles so curious what other options there were at a decent price. I've read the pros and cons of aluminum and just not sure I like the durability of them over time.

 

[leboeuf]

I'll speak up for keggles. I have one and like it. The concave bottom makes a nice well to hold sludge when you're siphoning, they're the better side of bullet proof, they have nice handles, and most of all you can get one for really cheap.

Personally I choose not to drill or weld on my keggles. This keeps them uniform and easy to clean. If you build your burner stand high enough, a simple siphon through the top of the keggle will perform any transfer a valve could.

One more thing for thought: Why install expensive and delicate items like sight glasses and huge bling dial thermometers when a 10$ lab thermometer and dipstick do the same thing just as well? I can take a fire hose to my keggle and not break anything... It's easy to get star struck on this forum looking at people's crazy setups, but realistically a lot of the "necessary" keggle add-on's are anything but.

 

[OMJ]

I'll speak up for keggles. I have one and like it. The concave bottom makes a nice well to hold sludge when you're siphoning, they're the better side of bullet proof, they have nice handles, and most of all you can get one for really cheap.

Personally I choose not to drill or weld on my keggles. This keeps them uniform and easy to clean. If you build your burner stand high enough, a simple siphon through the top of the keggle will perform any transfer a valve could.

One more thing for thought: Why install expensive and delicate items like sight glasses and huge bling dial thermometers when a 10$ lab thermometer and dipstick do the same thing just as well? I can take a fire hose to my keggle and not break anything... It's easy to get star struck on this forum looking at people's crazy setups, but realistically a lot of the "necessary" keggle add-on's are anything but.

Having a ball valve on your keggle makes life a lot easier. You dont have to do anything to start the siphon just open the valve. If you go weldless they are very easy to remove if you want to clean.

 

[Bobby_M]

Why install expensive and delicate items like sight glasses and huge bling dial thermometers when a 10$ lab thermometer and dipstick do the same thing just as well?

Because..

If you build your burner stand high enough, ...

If you've got an HLT up on level 2 or 3, it would take a step ladder to dipstick and test the temp.

If you had the opportunity to brew with a keg and a well made 15 gallon stock pot and could later choose either them for no economic consequence, I'm pretty sure you'd pick the stock pot. That would prove that cost is really the factor.

 

[leboeuf]

Sorry, I should have specified that I was only talking about the actual kettle.
I would definitely go with a nice 15 gallon SS pot if cost was not an issue. I think I'd still be up in the air concerning the valve though... I really don't feel the need in my brew day for one.

My mlt however is a contraption of valves, pumps, thermometers, etc. and I take great care to clean it

 

[phatuna]

I love my keggle. I picked up one on craigslist for free (this might take you some time as free one's don't come up for free very often - but I do see them for $20 - $40 all the time).

Then use BobbyM's method for cutting the top off or take it to your local high school metal shop. I do like the ball valve on my keggle, but like the above poster said, it's not critical as you can just syphon.

 

[Arkador]

I do 5gal extract batches in a keggle, no prblems!