Kegging Start-Up Questions

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tagz

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I took the first step on my road to kegging today. I bought a CO2 tank with a regulator and tap from Craig's List. I've posted pictures of the system below. I'd appreciate any advice on my next steps in getting this into proper condition. It was used for commercial kegs, so I'm going to need to adjust some of the parts, but not sure what at this point. And, it hasn't been used in several years so here are my intial questions:

Can you tell from the codes or size if this is a 5# tank?

What parts do I need to connect this to a corny keg?

What can I do about the gauge that's turned backwards?

Should I take it all apart and retape all the connections?

What do I leave attached when I take it in to get tested and filled?

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Thanks or your help. I'm picking up some corny kegs that have been sitting in my dad's barn soon. Should be up and running in a couple weeks!:mug:
 
Can you tell from the codes or size if this is a 5# tank?

Looks like a 5# tank to me.

What parts do I need to connect this to a corny keg?

To connect your tap line to the corny keg, you need something like this:
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_271_129_371&products_id=1276
Note that this has a hose-barb on it, so you can slide your line over the barb and put a hose clamp on it.

Or, you can use one like this:
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_271_129_371&products_id=1274

which has a screw-on connector. You would need to buy a swivel barb to screw onto it. Something like this, but with the proper sized barb for the line you want to use:
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_271_129_371&products_id=1272

On the gas, side, it's the same story.
barbed quick connector: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_271_275_373&products_id=1275
screw-on connector: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_271_275_373&products_id=1273
you would need another of the swivel barbs to use the screw-on connector.


What can I do about the gauge that's turned backwards?
You can turn it so it's facing forward, leave it like it is, or just remove it. That gauge is pretty much useless for CO2.

Should I take it all apart and retape all the connections?
Probably a good idea. If I were you, I would replace the hoses (at least replace the one that will carry beer) since this hasn't been used in a while.

What do I leave attached when I take it in to get tested and filled?

You don't leave anything attached except the valve screwed into the top of the tank. Take the regulator off.

I think that last pic shows the date that this was last tested, and it's overdue to be tested again. You will have to have it tested before anyone will fill it.

Or, if you don't have an emotional attachment to the tank, some places will take an empty tank from you and give you back a certified and full tank in exchange. They often handle the testing of the tank themselves, and may or may not charge you for that. (The place where I exchange tanks does not charge for testing.)
 
2.5 kegs are about 14.5" high while 5lbs are 18.5" generally. There are many exceptions, but measure the height and you should know.

m.
 
Awesome. Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I move forward, but this should get me started.
 
Here are some pictures of the kegs that my dad had sitting up in his barn. Any info you guys can glean from these shots? It looks like they have four connections on top. Most cornies I have seen pictures of have two, no? Any ideas?

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Keg001.jpg


Keg003.jpg
 
two of those are the standard ball-lock posts.

the smaller of the two others is probably some sort of pressure release, but I'll be damned if I know for certain WTF those other two things are.
 
I found a cheap fridge on CL. $40 for a 6 year old GE compact fridge. The dimensions are 34 X 18 X 18 3/4. Anyone have any experience with converting GE fridges? It's a good price, but will it be functional?

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Any tutorials I've seen on the internet about converting fridges to kegerators say to avoid the kind with the ice/freezer compartment mounted to the top like that.. You'll likely run into trouble with the coolant lines being where you'd want to put the tower.. just my opinion, I'm sure we'll get some other resposnes re: this.
 
That fridge may not be wide enough to fit two kegs. We would also need to know the depth in front of the hump. The plastic on the door would probably need to be removed as well, a search on the forums will give you plenty of examples.

As far as bending the freezer down, not a problem. Take it slow, and make sure that the fridge is warmed up before you do it.

I wouldn't think cooling lines would be in the top of this fridge/freezer, although there may be evaporation lines. You could use the vodka/corn starch trick to find them
 
Well, I decided to pass on that fridge. So I'm still hunting for a good deal. In the mean time, I'm getting the keg in shape and I was wondering if anyone could help me out with identifying some parts.

Here are some pictures of the style of keg I'm working with.

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Now I have four parts. There are 2 ball lock posts with poppets. What I assume is a pressure release - the top row of parts. But, I'm not sure what the long rod is. At first I thought it was a dip tube, but (1) it's not attached to the ball lock post and (2) it's solid! You can see in the third pic that there's no hole in the end.

So, I'm assuming I need to replace one of those short tubes with a dip tube. Perhaps the long rod is to clear out the dip tube? It does fit though the short tubes.

I haven't been able to find any models online that look like mine, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I would get some keg lube and seal it up. Shoot some gas into it to see if it holds. Not sure if you done this yet but it would be a good test before you get too far along.

If it seals up then get a longer dip tube and maybe cut it to fit the tank if its too long.

m.
 
Good idea. I still have to get my CO2 tank filled. So, I'll fill the tank and test the seal. I've replaced most of the rings. Some of the old ones were cracking.

Anyone know what the solid rod is for?
 
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