Kegging newbie...appreciate any thoughts on my process

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MJDore

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Just picked up my first kegging system from Rebel Brewer last week...two 5 gal cornies, a 5 lb CO2 tank with regulator, all lines, picnic taps, etc.

I'm ready to rack my first beer into a keg but want to make sure my process for doing so is sound. I've studied the Bodensatz site quite a bit and read some directions from the Northern Brewer site. There are some subtle differences. I would appreciate any insights/experiences you guys have had as it relates to what I lay out here:

Cleaning
1. Using the Bodensatz technique here. PBW soak with the lid, posts, and small dip tube in a separate soak.
2. Throw a brew pail on top and then turn the whole keg upside down to let the top half of the keg soak as well.
3. Add a "blast" of gas to the keg with the solution in there and run the solution through the dispensing line.
4. Rinse throroughly, another blast of gas, and then rinse the lines.
5. Repeat the above with sanitizer.

FIRST QUESTION...I read something on Bodensatz about storing your keg for a few days pressurized to "purge" the keg. I'm assuming this has something to do with ridding the keg of oxygen but is this necessary if I'm ready to fill immediately after sanitizing?

6. Rack the beer into the keg.
7. Chill to serving temp for 24 hours.
8. Force carb with CO2 at 12 PSI. Let carb for one week.

SECOND QUESTION...Once I've let the beer sit on the gas for one week and I'm ready to serve, do I shut the gas off? I read something about potentially over-carbing the beer but I'm not sure what to do here.

Thanks for the help and any critiques! :rockin:
 
that is a very extensive cleaning/sanitizing, which is never a bad thing.

The idea of purging the keg is to not have oxygen in there when you rack your beer in. So 1st hook up co2 to the keg and you will hear it running in. The open the pressure relief valve and the oxygen will come out thru there. This only takes a few seconds. At this point unhook the co2 and with the pressure relief valve open you can open the top of the corny. It should be all cloudy inside as the co2 has replaced the o2. Now transfer your beer into the corny, for this i use an autosiphon with a long enough hose to reach the bottom of the corny, limit splashing. Then seal it up and hit it with the co2 again. I set mine at 12-14lbs and 38 degrees, within about a week it is nicely carbed. Leave the co2 hooked up when serving. At a certain temperature/pressure beer will only absorb a set amount of co2, so if u leave it at 12-14 lbs it can not overcarb.
 
Thanks a ton for the quick response. Looking forward to giving this a shot later today.
 
So I'm noticing now that neither of my cornies have small dip tubes on the gas in side. Is this ok or do I need them?
 
So I'm noticing now that neither of my cornies have small dip tubes on the gas in side. Is this ok or do I need them?

Yes, you need them. they hold the o-ring in place which seals the keg post. If you're sure they aren't there contact the vendor and request, though in acuiring 12 cornies I've never seen one missing.
 
After you fill the keg and hit it with CO2, pull the relief valve. Then repeat both steps a few times. This will purge most of the oxygen. If you just hit it with CO2 and do not vent, you still have the same amount of oxygen that was in the head space before you sealed the keg, although it will be under greater pressure and in lesser proportion.

Also, you want the CO2 at the correct pressure given temperature and desired carbonation level, and then leave the gas on.
 
by no dip tube on the co2 in do you mean there is nothing? or it just doesnt look like the product out side.

The tube on the gas in should only extend into the corny about an inch or so, not all the way to the bottom like the out tube. You never wanna fill your corny up to the point where it touches the gas in tube.
 
They were both there. I was expecting a longer tube but I see now what they are. Thanks for the help.
 
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