Kegerator Setup Frustration

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Docod44

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I got all of my components to make a two tap kegerator in a 4.4 cu ft mini fridge (Danby Designer DAR044A4BDD-6 4.4 Cu.Ft. Mini Fridge) and my initial fit test has me stumped and frustrated. I just want to have two 3 gallon kegs on tap at a time but nothing seems to fit, and I'm baffled because it seems like I've seen plenty of two tap kegerators with 5 gallon cornies that work just fine. I may have been ambitious getting a dual body taprite for my 5# CO2 tank, but I think I've found a configuration that may work if I remove the door shelves. I'm open to any and all suggestions, the only fix I can't do is to keep the CO2 tank outside of the fridge due to the kegerator location already being too tight.
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Another setup that will probably work, but the two kegs side by side just barely work with the shelf slots. It's the rubber handles that are making this fit too tight, but these have an 8.5" diameter which is smaller than some other 3 gallon kegs out there. I know that a collar would fix my problem but I can't do it in our small apartment, my wife is really unhappy with me for buying this as it is.
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Can you put one keg on the hump with the CO2 cylinder? Put the cylinder on the left with the gauges facing to the right, and with a keg to the right, then see if the second keg can nestle in on the floor.

fwiw, it is quite common to remove the door liner with all the molded protrusions and replace it with a sheet of FRP...

btw, that regulator is more commonly referred to as a "dual body", as even a single body typically sports "dual gauges"...

Cheers!
 
Door liner would open up some space. I have a Danby kegorator with a similar cooling setup but a flat door and it can fit to 5 gal cornies, and the 5lb CO2. Difference is the inside the the door is flat.
As luck would have it I’ve been screwing around with it tonight to see if I could upgrade to a 3” tower. I have everything disassembled but threw the kegs and gas in there for demo purposes.

One thing you can’t see is the 120mm PC fan I have behind the kegs but below the hump. It will help ALOT with foamy pours. If you decide to install a tower you will want to get a tower cooler as well. I had a 12degree split prior to installing the fan. Honestly haven't measured since install but its noticeably cooler via feel and kegs aren't all foam pours for the first 2-3pints.
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Door liner would open up some space. I have a Danby kegorator with a similar cooling setup but a flat door and it can fit to 5 gal cornies, and the 5lb CO2. Difference is the inside the the door is flat.
As luck would have it I’ve been screwing around with it tonight to see if I could upgrade to a 3” tower. I have everything disassembled but threw the kegs and gas in there for demo purposes.

One thing you can’t see is the 120mm PC fan I have behind the kegs but below the hump. It will help ALOT with foamy pours. If you decide to install a tower you will want to get a tower cooler as well. I had a 12degree split prior to installing the fan. Honestly haven't measured since install but its noticeably cooler via feel and kegs aren't all foam pours for the first 2-3pints.View attachment 698976
Chopping the door is definitely my next step and I bought some stick-on whiteboard material to cover the insulation. I think this will provide my best solution, thank you.
 
Can you put one keg on the hump with the CO2 cylinder? Put the cylinder on the left with the gauges facing to the right, and with a keg to the right, then see if the second keg can nestle in on the floor.

fwiw, it is quite common to remove the door liner with all the molded protrusions and replace it with a sheet of FRP...

btw, that regulator is more commonly referred to as a "dual body", as even a single body typically sports "dual gauges"...

Cheers!
Perfect, this is the only fit that has worked without needing to remove the door protrusions (something I still plan on doing though)
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. Thank you!
 
Chop that door and you might even get three in there.
I finally fit them without modding the door, but I'll do it anyway since I plan on drilling my shank holes through the door.
 
I trimmed the plasic on the door and also needed to trim the sides where the shelf slots are. When I get home this evening I will send you a link to a video I did about how I fit my kegs in there.......Take care, Bluefin.
 
First sign of a beer intolerant spouse - this does not bode well...
I did clear it with her beforehand but she got annoyed that I was frustrated. It's all good now that I was able to get the fit right. She also doesn't drink beer (or any alcohol really) so I promised her that one of those kegs will be Seltzer/Ginger beer and they lessened the impact I think.
 
I trimmed the plasic on the door and also needed to trim the sides where the shelf slots are. When I get home this evening I will send you a link to a video I did about how I fit my kegs in there.......Take care, Bluefin.
That'd be awesome, thank you. I can use my Dad's dremel tool to trim the door, I might just a file or a rasp on the shelf slots.
 
I’d only trim the sides if you feel its necessary for a few reasons.

1. explaining to the wife why your throwing out those wire shelves

2. if you take a hiatus from brewing, those shelves will come in handy for storing drinks in there. With those shorty kegs, you might still be able to use the top shelf if your able to store everything on the floor.
 
Here are two videos I made about making my Danby Kegerator. Watching these may help you out. I plan on making another one for my son in the next few weeks. Here is video part one:

Here is video part two:

Hope this helps you out,
Take care, Bluefin.
 
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Here are two videos I made about making my Danby Kegerator. Watching these ma help you out. I. plan on making another one for my son in the next few weeks. Here is video part one:

Here is video part two:

Hope this helps you out,
Take care, Bluefin.

Extremely helpful, thanks a million. Looks like I have everything worked out on my end now!
 
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