Keg fridge build design advice

[Treck]

As part of a kitchen remodel, I am seeking to build my first keg fridge and thereby reduce the bottling I have to do. I am going to have to customize something for the application that I am seeking. See idea above. The little lights are meant to represent taps. And I will have a drip tray below.

So I’m gathering that I will need to run lines through the wall to connect to the taps in the wall. I see talk on forums about keep the beer in the tower cool. What factors do I need to consider to keep the lines cool? How would you accomplish that?

What kind of access do I need to ensure I provide within my design to ensure that I can easily do appropriate cleaning and maintenance?

Again, first kegerator build and I need to get it right since it will be in my main kitchen. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Personally I think pulling a tap sideways like that would be awkward and not enjoyable. Not to mention you want flow control taps that would be a pain if not impossible to use with that setup. lines getting warm is a real issue that could equal major kegging/foam headaches. I would mount the tower on the the counter top like normal for looks, functionality and ease of use. But then theres the wife approval that could be more of an issue than all those combined

 

[Treck]

But then theres the wife approval that could be more of an issue than all those combined

You have put your finger on the issue here.

Any suggestions on how to mitigate the lines getting warm and other issues?

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

You have put your finger on the issue here.

Any suggestions on how to mitigate the lines getting warm and other issues?

I think they make water jacket beer line or something like that. I dont need it so never really looked into it. Somebody should chime in with more info.

You could also just get a free standing kegerator and stick it somewhere else in the house that looks cool. If you ever get out of kegging you can just sell it without sheet rock repair and paint....and wife issues

 

[day_trippr]

"Glycol-Cooled Trunk Line", but that might not be necessary.
An alternative is to run PVC pipe as a looped duct with a fan driving fridge air in one end and the tap lines running through the other.
And I wouldn't worry about "What happens when we sell the house"...

Cheers!

 

[mongoose33]

My 2 cents.

If I read the picture correctly, the faucets can be accessed from either side? If so, they're probably OK. I think people would adjust fast.

I agree w/ JR, you'd probably want flow control faucets here, especially given that you may not get the cooling issue figured out perfectly.

Since it's a remodel, will the wall be opened up? If so,you can line it with 2" foam board and create a chase through which you can push cold air. PVC pipe might work as well. Whatever, you need to insulate the lines and cold air inside.

If you're willing to put a "box" on the wall, you could run 3" pvc pipe up from the refrigerator with the lines in it, into the box surface-mounted to the wall, have that be insulated probably w/ 1" foam board, then allow the air to return down to the refrigerator with a return pipe or line.

The bigger concern I'd have is how you're going to get the lines out of the refrigerator and up to the taps. Most small refrigerators have the coils in the sides, so you'd have to come out the top. You'd also want to consider whether the refrigerator would work well, given that it would be covered up. There wouldn't be much place for the heat from the sides to go.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

The bigger concern I'd have is how you're going to get the lines out of the refrigerator and up to the taps. Most small refrigerators have the coils in the sides, so you'd have to come out the top. You'd also want to consider whether the refrigerator would work well, given that it would be covered up. There wouldn't be much place for the heat from the sides to go.

I have a commercial under counter fridge and all lines are on the back. Mines surrounded like his in the pic and is rear breathing and still dont have any issues. Of course its old and built like a brick sh*t house. A front breathing fridge would end that concern

 

[day_trippr]

Actually, most fridges do not have anything in the side walls. Condensers are typically under the unit or behind it and the plumbing up to the evaporators typically runs up the back.
But I'm sure there are exceptions, which is why it pays to locate a chassis diagram...

Cheers!

 

[Treck]

Thank you all. So, from reading above, other searching of this forum and others, I'm gathering that I would need to run PVC (2 inch?) through a hole in the side of the fridge, insulate it, seal it, get a fan. so that this section becomes cooled and essentially serves as an extension of the refrigerator.

Can I get the necessary hoses and such to have two taps through one 2 inch PVC or do I need to run 2? Do I hear some saying that I need to have a second line to serve as a return/balance line?

This is a small part of a much larger remodel, so I think it would be pretty easy for me to leave access to both sides of the wall and work that into the design if needed be. Or is that not necessary from the (left side in picture) once everything is hooked up and tested?

 

[Treck]

"Glycol-Cooled Trunk Line", but that might not be necessary.
An alternative is to run PVC pipe as a looped duct with a fan driving fridge air in one end and the tap lines running through the other.
And I wouldn't worry about "What happens when we sell the house"...

Cheers!

So, the glycol line would be run in place of the PVC and is insulated enough to not require a fan?

 

[Treck]

My 2 cents.

If I read the picture correctly, the faucets can be accessed from either side? If so, they're probably OK. I think people would adjust fast.

I agree w/ JR, you'd probably want flow control faucets here, especially given that you may not get the cooling issue figured out perfectly.

Since it's a remodel, will the wall be opened up? If so,you can line it with 2" foam board and create a chase through which you can push cold air. PVC pipe might work as well. Whatever, you need to insulate the lines and cold air inside.

If you're willing to put a "box" on the wall, you could run 3" pvc pipe up from the refrigerator with the lines in it, into the box surface-mounted to the wall, have that be insulated probably w/ 1" foam board, then allow the air to return down to the refrigerator with a return pipe or line.

The bigger concern I'd have is how you're going to get the lines out of the refrigerator and up to the taps. Most small refrigerators have the coils in the sides, so you'd have to come out the top. You'd also want to consider whether the refrigerator would work well, given that it would be covered up. There wouldn't be much place for the heat from the sides to go.

The wall will be opened up. Potentially from both sides.

You bring up an interesting point about putting a box and then going vertical, but I don't think I want to cut through the counter.

Thanks for the help.

 

[day_trippr]

So, the glycol line would be run in place of the PVC and is insulated enough to not require a fan?

Sure looks like it from here...

But, in turn, that solution requires a pump and "cold source" to work. Folks with keezers and not-too-long runs have successfully circulated coolant using a sump pump in a bucket...

Cheers!

 

[HotRod9mm]

While there are advantages/disadvantages to everything you might think about a removable hatch in the counter top and get THIS with a double fill so you have minimal plumbing. Plus you can easily roll the fridge out for cleaning if you have a spill. Initial cost might be more but I think it would cost less with your contractor in the long run by the time you finished getting everything from the fridge plumbed up in the wall.

 

[mongoose33]

Actually, most fridges do not have anything in the side walls. Condensers are typically under the unit or behind it and the plumbing up to the evaporators typically runs up the back.
But I'm sure there are exceptions, which is why it pays to locate a chassis diagram...

Cheers!

I think if they're large ones this is largely true. The smaller dorm-style refrigerators typically dump heat through the sides.

 

[day_trippr]

Could easily be true, not sure what the break-point is wrt capacity....

Cheers!