Keg faucets/taps - some dumb questions

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mtnagel

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I've been using Perlick faucets since I built my kegerator almost 10 years ago. They've been mostly trouble free, but in the last year or so, I've had some leaks. I've taken them apart and put them back together and that seemed to fix it temporarily. I'm thinking after 10 years, maybe it's time to replace them. Or maybe I should just try replacing the o-rings? Thoughts? If I replace them, seems like Intertap are the ones recommended the most now. Is that still true? I see the NukaTaps out there. Seems like those are the only ones available with flow control now but I see mixed reviews on those. Would you recommend switching to those? Also, I'm assuming the size is standard, but will any new faucets work with my existing tower? Anything else I should know about replacing my faucets? TIA
 
I'm still using a six pack of first-generation Perlick 525SS faucets I bought almost 20 years ago. I do minimal periodic refreshing of the critical O-rings, and they never leak.

It's all about understanding how to adjust the bonnet when replacing the two O-rings that sandwich the faucet lever pivot ball so the "perl" at the end of the lever squarely meets the "floating" O-ring in the spout. If one tightens the faucet bonnet too much the "perl" will miss the center of that O-ring on the high side; too loose and it'll miss on the low side. Less than ideal alignment can indeed lead to dribbles. This can all be visualized with the faucet removed from its shank and then looking through the shank end.

All that said I imagine the shuttle-based faucets would be easier to tune and if the Perls are aggravating I could understand replacing them :)

Cheers!
 
I'm still using a six pack of first-generation Perlick 525SS faucets I bought almost 20 years ago. I do minimal periodic refreshing of the critical O-rings, and they never leak.

It's all about understanding how to adjust the bonnet when replacing the two O-rings that sandwich the faucet lever pivot ball so the "perl" at the end of the lever squarely meets the "floating" O-ring in the spout. If one tightens the faucet bonnet too much the "perl" will miss the center of that O-ring on the high side; too loose and it'll miss on the low side. Less than ideal alignment can indeed lead to dribbles. This can all be visualized with the faucet removed from its shank and then looking through the shank end.

All that said I imagine the shuttle-based faucets would be easier to tune and if the Perls are aggravating I could understand replacing them :)

Cheers!
Thanks for the info! Seems like I should try replacing the o-rings first and figure out how to replace everything. When taking it apart, I've definitely cranked on that bonnet nut thinking tighter was better, but I probably made the issue worse. So do you recommend just replacing all the o-rings at once on some frequency?
 
I've only occasionally replaced O-rings reactively. The two small O-rings on the top and bottom of the faucet lever pivot ball tend to wear out before the "floating" O-ring in the spout - but that one gets hard over time - so there are occasional reasons to replace O-rings. But if I pull a faucet off the tower for deeper cleaning (than what recirculating warm BLC mix does) I'll refresh those three O-rings - I rarely find the need to replace the shank O-ring though I do have a pack of those as well.

I think it you pull one of your Perlicks and check out how the "perl" meets the spout O-ring you'll gain an understand of how to tune those bonnets :)

Also, I got the "misses" backwards. Here's the corrected line: "If one tightens the faucet bonnet too much the "perl" will miss the center of that O-ring on the low side; too loose and it'll miss on the high side".

Cheers!
 
I've only occasionally replaced O-rings reactively. The two small O-rings on the top and bottom of the faucet lever pivot ball tend to wear out before the "floating" O-ring in the spout - but that one gets hard over time - so there are occasional reasons to replace O-rings. But if I pull a faucet off the tower for deeper cleaning (than what recirculating warm BLC mix does) I'll refresh those three O-rings - I rarely find the need to replace the shank O-ring though I do have a pack of those as well.

I think it you pull one of your Perlicks and check out how the "perl" meets the spout O-ring you'll gain an understand of how to tune those bonnets :)

Also, I got the "misses" backwards. Here's the corrected line: "If one tightens the faucet bonnet too much the "perl" will miss the center of that O-ring on the low side; too loose and it'll miss on the high side".

Cheers!
I also have the Perlick 525's and love them. Where are you getting the O-rings from?

Thanks!
 
I also have the Perlick 525's and love them. Where are you getting the O-rings from?

I bought a bunch of 525 O-rings directly from Perlick back when they retailed replacement parts directly. I understand they have passed that business on to an independent company now. I would be very careful when dealing with that company lest you make a costly error like ordering this ridiculous offering...

1679694742127.png


Cheers!
 
I bought a bunch of 525 O-rings directly from Perlick back when they retailed replacement parts directly. I understand they have passed that business on to an independent company now. I would be very careful when dealing with that company lest you make a costly error like ordering this ridiculous offering...

View attachment 815899

Cheers!
I checked out the kegconnection site but then spotted the same from Amazon for a set of the four o-rings.
 
The o-rings I looked at on Amazon were from keg connection as jcav suggested, so I assumed they'd be ok. Maybe I'm wrong.

When I get back to my PC I'll look at them closer.
 
I would not be worried if you ordered the $3.95 set from Kegconnection, I've never been burned by them.

Both sets I linked came up while searching for "525SS rebuild kits" yet the ridiculously priced set claims to be for the 650ss (even though the image is clearly the same). Hence, the gotta be careful out there admonishment :)

Cheers!
 
I would not be worried if you ordered the $3.95 set from Kegconnection, I've never been burned by them.

Both sets I linked came up while searching for "525SS rebuild kits" yet the ridiculously priced set claims to be for the 650ss (even though the image is clearly the same). Hence, the gotta be careful out there admonishment :)

Cheers!
I have ordered stuff from Keg Connection too. All of my Perlicks came from Rapids Supply and I know they are as old as yours. I have replaced o-rings before but like to keep extras in stock.

Thanks for your advice and searches!
 
I finally solved the problem of my randomly-leaking Perlicks... by replacing them with Intertaps. Just finally tired of rebuilding and repeatedly fussing with the bonnets and o-rings on those Perlicks, having them work fine for a while and then just start leaking for no apparent reason. Now I have three faucets and a big bag of o-rings (I think it was 100 and I've used half a dozen) to do something with.
 
I replaced my nearly-new Perlicks with Nukataps and Kegland plastic quick release disconnects. Now I have short beer lines and no aggravation.

I don't have enough experience with Perlicks to be any kind of authority, but they sort of seem like the AR-15. About 75% of what people put on the Internet about AR-15's is dedicated to making them work correctly, but when AK-47 people produce content, it's about other things, because an AK-47 runs fine right out of the box. I haven't seen any material on the web about Nukatap problems.
 
Any beer tap is going to be maintained to some degree, including the new ones, no matter what a person owns. O-rings wear out over time and use. I can't comment on AR-15's but I'm sure after multiple use they'd need some TLC after use too. Does the AK-47 have a perfect pour?
 
The AK seems to pour lead pretty reliably.

I don't think rocket launch skills are the issue. It seems like one faucet requires some effort to manage, and it also clogs up easily with trub, and the other one is plug and play. The Perlicks are more expensive and they are fiddly to get sealed correctly. Kegland claims they agitate the beer close to the discharge point, which, if true, is another factor to consider. IF true. They also say the lower mass of Nukataps can reduce heating of the first part of a pour, reducing unwanted foaming.

Another nice thing about Nukataps plus Kegland disconnects is that you can install return springs in them, which can prevent disasters. Not possible with a Perlick.

If you really want a high-tech opinion, I'll give you one. Here is what ChatGPT says:

Both the Nukatap and the Perlick 650SS are high-quality beer faucets that are designed to dispense beer with minimal foaming and provide a smooth, consistent pour. However, there are some differences between the two.

The Nukatap is a more affordable option that is made of stainless steel and features a forward sealing design. This means that the sealing mechanism is located at the front of the faucet, which helps to prevent beer from drying out and causing buildup on the inside of the faucet. The Nukatap also has an adjustable flow control and is compatible with a variety of shanks and fittings.

The Perlick 650SS, on the other hand, is a more premium option that is made of high-quality stainless steel and features a unique "Perl" ball and floating O-ring design. This design helps to prevent sticking and ensures a smooth, consistent pour. The Perlick 650SS also has a flow control lever and is compatible with a variety of shanks and fittings.

Overall, both the Nukatap and the Perlick 650SS are excellent choices for a beer faucet, and the choice between the two largely depends on your budget and personal preferences.

Later on, I'm going to ask it who would win if Schrodinger's cat had a fight with Hello Kitty.
 
Well this is disappointing.

As both Schrodinger's cat and Hello Kitty are fictional characters, it's impossible to predict the outcome of a hypothetical MMA bout between them. It would depend entirely on the rules and context of the match, as well as the creative imagination of those conceptualizing it.
 
Another nice thing about Nukataps plus Kegland disconnects is that you can install return springs in them, which can prevent disasters. Not possible with a Perlick.

I have had Intertap return springs on all of my Perlick 525SS faucets since they were first available.

The problem if there is one with Perlick faucets is the use of a "pivot" mechanism vs the "sliding shuttle" does require a higher level of understanding of basic geometry to assemble (or "tune") properly. The shuttle makes things simple, no knowledge required :)

Cheers!
 
I have ordered stuff from Keg Connection too. All of my Perlicks came from Rapids Supply and I know they are as old as yours. I have replaced o-rings before but like to keep extras in stock.

Thanks for your advice and searches!
Love Rapids Supply! I live about 1/2 hour from there. I have made the trip a couple of times for big purchases, including my Perlicks!
 
Love Rapids Supply! I live about 1/2 hour from there. I have made the trip a couple of times for big purchases, including my Perlicks!
Lucky you to live close, but mail ordering from them is painless. When I was putting in my taps I bought a lot of stuff from them. I still occasionally buy from them. Lots of items for the bar and home.
 
Lucky you to live close, but mail ordering from them is painless. When I was putting in my taps I bought a lot of stuff from them. I still occasionally buy from them. Lots of items for the bar and home.
I have spent thousands between them and Chi company (The Chi-Company, a home brewing company since 1996, New and used beverage equipment for Homebrewing, Home winemaking, Soda systems and used Pepsi vending equipment) in Chico, CA. Both are great places and have excellent customer service.
 
I forgot about CHI. I have bought from them too but a long time ago. They used to sell a lot of obscure items plus kegs and parts. Years ago there wasn't many places selling keg stuff like there is now. I'll have to give them a look.
 
I forgot about CHI. I have bought from them too but a long time ago. They used to sell a lot of obscure items plus kegs and parts. Years ago there wasn't many places selling keg stuff like there is now. I'll have to give them a look.
They have GREAT prices on cold plates and parts. I got my 6-beverage plate from them with fittings several years ago. Built my jockey box with it. 🙂
 

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Is there a trick to getting the perlicks apart? I cant seem to get the handle leaver out of the faucet. (I have the white plastic little collar.)

Edit: ah forward seal was blocking me. Seemed like that round piece was just to big.
 
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Since this was bumped, my as well share my "Don't do that" moment. So I bought the replacement o-rings, but the leaking stopped, so I didn't replace them. Then I woke up to a puddle on my finished basement floor :( Thankfully it was only carbonated water, but still a pain to deal with. I replaced the o-rings this weekend (what a pain in the butt to get them in place) and so far so good.
 
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