Keezer collars - which wood to use?

[ferm.adventures]

What is that insulation stuff? I should probably get some and build one of those fan attached to PVC to help with circulation and condensation.

Reflectix. They have at Home Depot. Light, cheap and easy to work with. I just taped it it with the foil tape. It's good too to insulate electric boil kettles, mash tuns, etc.

Yeah, I saw those pvc builds for air movement. I think that is my biggest issue right now. That small fan I have to move air around is not cutting it.

 

[vance]

This is like the easiest option:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zHWy_Vlw3J4

You can always just go with picnic taps and forgo building the collar at all. A good place to start anyhow.

If I hadn't already ordered shanks and faucets I might honestly.

 

[jwelch1103]

I used 2x fir for the inner pieces and 1x poplar on the outer. Sealed and primed with Kilz then painted the poplar dark brown. My keezer is in my basement so I wasn't looking for a finished furniture look.

 

[Jawbox0]

Just to add another option, I used white Poly/PVC board. Moisture won't be a problem, and I find it looks really good on a white freezer. I used 1x4 boards on the outside, insulated the inside, and sealed it to the freezer with and outdoor construction adhesive.

 

[itsnotrequired]

i used 2x pine for the 'main' part of the collar, with finished 1x oak on the outside and 1.5" xps foam on the inside:

 

[PerryS]

Can't seem to find a good idea of what to use for my collar. What's the best choice for type of wood and its thickness?

I used 2x6 construction-grade redwood. It may seem counter-intuitive, but finished construction-grade redwood has all sorts of interesting artifacts around the knots and voids.

Fill, sand, repeat. Seal, sand, repeat. I used water-based Varathane, about four coats.

 

[dstockwell]

More expensive than wood, but this looks good.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=589788

 

[BYOBKC]

Doug Fir

 

[kh54s10]

I would not use plywood in fabricating a collar as it complicates all the joinery, leaves raw edges to attach to cabinet and gaskets, and is much more susceptible to mold than solid wood.

Two-by for the core structure provides rigidity and solid attachment for hinges and clean surfaces for gaskets and attaching to the cabinet, 1-by for outside "skin", and lined with rigid foam...

Cheers!

I would sand the raw edges of the plywood smooth and seal it up really well before assembly. It would then only be as susceptible to mold as any other material with the same seal coat.

I am positive I could do the joinery acceptably, I don't really care how nice the inside is....

The idea of the plywood on the inside is it will take a lot more abuse than just having foam on the inside.

 

[Swillerup]

I used a thin 1/8"? PVC board for the inside to give the collers and the manifold something to hold onto. Two layers ridgid insulation and a simple painted pine board for the outside. Fish tanked each layer of insulation. The insulation is the same width as the top lip of the freezer so the inside and outside wood can kind of clamp onto the freezer like a c-clamp.

 

[day_trippr]

[...]The idea of the plywood on the inside is it will take a lot more abuse than just having foam on the inside.

Would you double the back where the hinges attach?

Cheers!

 

[PerryS]

After using my keezer for a few years, I can't recommend foam insulation on the inside. As the keg goes in (40+ pounds), it may scrape the sides. I dunno - maybe y'all are stronger than I am. Wood can take a lot more abuse. The thermal loss of 2x wood versus another inch of styrofoam isn't much.

As an added bonus, I created some auxiliary refrigerator space for my (wonderful) wife by installing some opened eye screws to hold the freezer baskets. Made the project a much easier sell.

 

[Kcmfg]

I used 2x6 wood on top of freezer with truck bed insulation taped on bottom and then wrapped it with stained 1x8 pine on front and side walls. Then used about 3 layers of reflectix insulation bubble foil on the inside on the wood collar.

 

[BryceL]

First time posting photos on here, so please excuse me if they don't attach correctly.

I just finished my keezer build a couple months ago. I went with 1.5" cherry, 1.5" foam backing, and then wrapped the inside with aluminum sheet metal. I'm really glad I went with the sheet metal. Not only does it look super clean, but it protects the foam from getting beat up lifting kegs in and out.

I spent about $100 on the cherry wood and had enough left over to build a skirt for the bottom which helps to conceal the casters.

 

[corkybstewart]

I used 1 X 4 pine on the inside, red oak for the outside. The oak is attached with screws from the inside. I would avoid plywood, the moisture inside the keg can cause it to swell and come apart.

 

[musicbymark]

I use PVC lumber from Home Depot, more expensive than would for sure, but perfectly flat and you can either use the fake rain outside or turn it inside for a smooth surface which is my preference. I wish I would have painted it black in retrospect, as it is a little bit more prone to staining then wood with a slippery finish would be. The PVC offers great insulation qualities I think comma evidence by it always feeling room temperature when you touch the outside. It was very easy to drill into and I got extremely tight mitered corners.

 

[John Paul Stoddard]

As for Wood...I am a Wood Lover...So I select the wood I want to see...Walnut, Mahogany, Northern Red Oak, Alder, Maple,or maybe Cherry...not a cheap wood stained to look like something else...Even Pine is beautiful with a clear finish on it.....But I owuldn't stain it cherry or oak...

Every Wood worker has their way of doing joints...Myself I would consider dovetails If the ends would be exposed.