• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Just Started Brewing need a little help.

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

varack

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2012
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Little Falls
Hi all,

I just recently started brewing not too long about about 2 weeks after I got my cheap Mr.Beer kit and want to take it a lot further.

My main thing is trying to make small maybe 1-2 gallon batches for trial until I can find a concotion I like and want to keep. Would it be better to cut a 5 gallon batch down to a 2.5 gallon batch?

My next question is how much yeast would I use. I have the book "How to Brew Beer" by Palmer. I know it depends on wort gravity.

Would this assumtion be correct?

Wort Gravity = 1.064 would I roughly need 85-114.5 billion Yeast cells per 2.5 Gallons? (Book says 170-225 billion per 5 gallons).

Also what type of extracts should I use? I like darker beers such as Newcastle and love Yuengling. I am not into lagering now as I want to get my first few successful batchs.

Can any of you give me adivce on how to use Malt Extracts and how can I use 2 different Malt extracts in the same beer.


Finally, how much Hops should I use for my beer or should i use the formula

IBU= AAU x Utilization x 75 / recipe volume

If I a using 2 hops together at 60 minutes and 15minutes (until finish) should I add the IBU's together to get the possible outcome?

To calculate the potential bitterness. I know that the math is not always right and will change but is that an OK way to try to tailor a beer to my personal taste?
 
for hop bitterness use your formula. I wouldn't try using any real high alpha hops until you get your process down. if you use mid range or low alpha hops then you have more room for error. I would use dry yeast and pitch 1 whole packet and not worry about pitching rates at this point. a packet is often enough for a 5 gallon batch. you can use whatever kinds of extract you want. google some extract recipes for specific styles you'd like to try to brew
 
Thank you for the reply. I also forgot to ask is it true that 1lb of extract is used per gallon of water for light beers and 1.5lb for more body?

So if I have a 2.5 Gallon batch I made. Would the total malt extract be used for a light body beer be 2.5lbs? So if I am using 2 different extracts how ould that work? Use in ratios so that it achives 2.5lbs in the end?

Now since I am going to do 1-2.5 gallon batches should my wort consit of the exact amount of what I want to brew and then compensate for the evaporation by using pre boiled water to make it the volume I want?
 
I also thought of 1 thing. I am a big competition shooter (marksmenship) and roload my own ammunition (this may seem off topic but bear with me please).

I have a new unused powder measure a triple beam balance. Can I use it to measure Hops if I sanitize it properly? I have access to an auto-claive too so if I sterilize the tray (its removeable) would it work? Roughly 437.5 grains is 1 Ounce. Would that work?
 
I also forgot to ask is it true that 1lb of extract is used per gallon of water for light beers and 1.5lb for more body?

I know the book states this in the extract chapter, because I think he is trying to simplify things a bit for the new brewer. My recommendation until you get a handle on ingredients, etc. is to copy tried recipes (either from this forum or from a kit) in styles that you like. Recipes are to scale, so for 5 gallons you can just cut in half to do your 2.5 gal batch.
 
Now since I am going to do 1-2.5 gallon batches should my wort consit of the exact amount of what I want to brew and then compensate for the evaporation by using pre boiled water to make it the volume I want?

This is correct. The recipe is for finished volume. So if you have a 2.5 gal recipe, and can boil the full amount, you would start with 2.5 gal plus the boil off to evaporation. If you can't boil that much you can top off at the end with bottled or pre-boiled water to reach your final volume. Even on a stovetop most folks can get 3-3.5 gallons to a boil.
 
Thank you for the information it has answered most if not all of my concerns that were confusing me. I will look up recipies and let you know how it turns out when I get it going. Is starting on a small scale such as 2.5 gallons a good idea?
 
I would say go for it. I think it's a great way to get your processes down and find out what you like.
A last word of advice, read up about fermentation temp control on this forum. This one aspect makes a huge difference in beer quality and is something I wish I had known in the beginning. The only batch I have ever had to completely dump was my second batch, all due to uncontrolled temps in the summer.

Cheers and good luck!
 
I also thought of 1 thing. I am a big competition shooter (marksmenship) and roload my own ammunition (this may seem off topic but bear with me please).

I have a new unused powder measure a triple beam balance. Can I use it to measure Hops if I sanitize it properly? I have access to an auto-claive too so if I sterilize the tray (its removeable) would it work? Roughly 437.5 grains is 1 Ounce. Would that work?

i don't see why you wouldn't be able to. In the words of the great beer authority Jamil Zainesheff "if you have a scale that's good for weighing cocaine then it's probly alright to measure hops with" . So i'd say a gun powder scale would do the trick
 
Use the scale, wipe of the gun powder, but it does not have to be sterile or really sanitized since the hops go in a boil. I have no clue what is in gunpowder, so I would clean it very well.
 
Ok many thanks. I am currently writting what I like in a beer and hopefully can tailor it to what I want. I will post the exact recipe and the results when I make it. I experiment with this type of stuff so I prefere to stay small scale with it.

If it is good I will let you know and if its a bust i will say dont ever make this horrible concotion :p
 
Try "tastybrew .com brew calculator" for recipes, just punch in the numbers. Mr. malty for yeast starters and how much to pitch. Check and read the sticky's at the top of each forum. You will find tons of info. on any subject. Welcome to HBT Cheers:)
 
So i did some formulas with a recipe. Tell me what you think. Remember this is a 1 Gallon batch.

1.25 Pounds of Wheat Extract LME (Determining if i should go Amber LME)
1/16 Ounce Galena Hops (60min)
1/16 Ounce Ahtanum Hops (15min)
Coopers Ale Yeast (yet to be determined)

Assumed Calculations:

OG- 1.046
FG - 1.013
ABV - 4.37%
IBU - 19.22
SRM - 7.74

This is just an example I was fooling around with. I figured the Galena Hops were used for bittering got a stong, clean, citrusy. With Ahtanum with a Citrus Zest Character.

One question. Hops. Say I have a 5 gallon batch (in theory) that calls for 1 ounce. If i make a 1 gallon will that become a 0.20 Ounce?
 
One question. Hops. Say I have a 5 gallon batch (in theory) that calls for 1 ounce. If i make a 1 gallon will that become a 0.20 Ounce?

Yes but you may not need to be so precise. If you like your beer more bitter, use a little more of the 60 minute hops. Less hops makes less bitter. Later additions of hops add flavor without adding much bitterness.
 
Ok, thank you for all the replies. Most of the stuff I was confused on was answered. I know about under pitching yeast which could cause stress and off flavor, what happens if you over pitch?
 
Also calculated that I need 33 billion yeast cella does that sound right? Assuming the math is right since it's not a lager.

(0.75 million for ale) x (3785 since it's 1 gallon) x 11.5 Plato = 3.264563e10

Roughly 2 grams

Would that be a safe assumption? Sorry if im a nuisance just trying to figure out what I'm going to need and how to do it
 
Back
Top