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Just finished 1st Batch...

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TarheelRyan

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Greetings all.

First time homebrewer here. I just finished putting my first batch into the primary fermenter. I used a Brewer's Best Pacific Coast IPA recipe kit and tried to follow the directions as carefully as possible but had a few issues come up:

1) It took about 10 minutes to bring to a boil again after adding the LME. I doubt this would be a big deal, but just wanted to check.

2) After the boil, it took well over an hour to cool down to approximately 70 degrees. I still don't have a wort chiller, so I used a combo of ice water and placing the entire kettle in my freezer to bring the temp. down. I pitched the yeast at a temperature of around 70-75 degrees. Will this be an issue? Should I have waited longer?

3) I added tap water, but I fear I may have added some at too high of a temperature. Once I put the lid and airlock on, I stuck an adhesive thermometer strip to the outside of the bucket and it's reading at the highest reading (82 degrees). Should I be worried?

4) Lastly, I took an OG reading of 1.041 and the kit said it should be between 1.055-1.060. Again, should I be worried?

Thanks in advance. I figured there would be some issues on my first batch, but I fear I may have ruined it. Any advice, tips, etc. for these issues or for future batches would be greatly appreciated!

-THR
 
1) no problem
2) not really a problem, maybe
3) what was the temp when you pitched? 70 -75 or anywhere over 82? this may be a problem
4) typically extract kits will get you closer to the target OG. Are you sure you read the hydrometer correctly?
 
For #3 - The temp was probably closer to 70-75. It definitely wasn't 82 when I pitched it.

For #4 - I may have read it wrong. I've never used on before, so I could have been off.
 
#3 Add cold tap water to help cool the wort. The yeast can be pitched below the fermentation temperature. The yeast will become more active as the beer warms to the desired fermentation temperature.

Tap water with chlorine or chloramines needs to be treated with Campden before use in brewing.

Most ale yeasts ferment best at 68°F to 70°F. Do you have something set up to control the fermentation temperature?
 
1.) Can I ask what you mean, bring to a boil again? can you share the recipe as written? When I used to do kits like that, you would heat the kettle with your measured water, then stir in the LME to dissolve it. I dont remember adding LME during a boiling phase. If the sugar hits the bottom of the kettle which it surely does, it will cook it and make it an unfermentable sugar.

2.) I remember it taking a while to cool down a hot pot of wort. I would always fill the sink with water ice and salt, then Id set the kettle in the sink. Using a clean paddle, stirring the wort. But it still takes a good 45 minutes to an hour. If the recipe is one of those where you brew at double concentration and dilute with water before pitching yeast, I usually add the water (store bought gallons of mineral water, not sink) to the fermenter bucket and then pour in my 80*-90*F wort to cool it to 70*F degrees. Mix then pitch my yeast. There should be no issue pitching at 70-75*F.

3.) tap water should be fine if you boiled it ahead of time. I wouldnt trust straight water from the sink with my yeast. See comment above about buying some gallons of mineral water. Its only a few bucks.

4.) OG reading is low. Ive never been successful with kits, they always came out low for me as well and I pinned it on the freshness of the grains. Its also possible you added too much water during dilution step. Best way to combat this is not focus on reaching your target volume you are trying to make but calculate how much water to dilute by to hit your target FG. You can always take a gravity reading before dilution. Sure you end up with less beer but you'll feel good about the results. I have made personal calculation errors where I have messed up the Mash step during some of my first all grain brews, had the lauter all the way open and drained the mashtun into the kettle full throttle. Lost a lot of sugar. Target was 1.054, and I had a 1.032. Beer still turned out delicious but less flavor and less alcohol. 3.5%. I wouldnt worry too much about missing the OG on your first attempt. It may not end up like the flavor you pictured in your head but it could still turn out great.
 
Most ale yeasts ferment best at 68°F to 70°F. Do you have something set up to control the fermentation temperature?

I put a cold wet towel around the bucket and sat it next to an A/C vent. Temperature in the house is usually around 65-70 degrees.
 
1.) Can I ask what you mean, bring to a boil again? can you share the recipe as written? When I used to do kits like that, you would heat the kettle with your measured water, then stir in the LME to dissolve it. I dont remember adding LME during a boiling phase. If the sugar hits the bottom of the kettle which it surely does, it will cook it and make it an unfermentable sugar.

2.) I remember it taking a while to cool down a hot pot of wort. I would always fill the sink with water ice and salt, then Id set the kettle in the sink. Using a clean paddle, stirring the wort. But it still takes a good 45 minutes to an hour. If the recipe is one of those where you brew at double concentration and dilute with water before pitching yeast, I usually add the water (store bought gallons of mineral water, not sink) to the fermenter bucket and then pour in my 80*-90*F wort to cool it to 70*F degrees. Mix then pitch my yeast. There should be no issue pitching at 70-75*F.

3.) tap water should be fine if you boiled it ahead of time. I wouldnt trust straight water from the sink with my yeast. See comment above about buying some gallons of mineral water. Its only a few bucks.

4.) OG reading is low. Ive never been successful with kits, they always came out low for me as well and I pinned it on the freshness of the grains. Its also possible you added too much water during dilution step. Best way to combat this is not focus on reaching your target volume you are trying to make but calculate how much water to dilute by to hit your target FG. You can always take a gravity reading before dilution. Sure you end up with less beer but you'll feel good about the results. I have made personal calculation errors where I have messed up the Mash step during some of my first all grain brews, had the lauter all the way open and drained the mashtun into the kettle full throttle. Lost a lot of sugar. Target was 1.054, and I had a 1.032. Beer still turned out delicious but less flavor and less alcohol. 3.5%. I wouldnt worry too much about missing the OG on your first attempt. It may not end up like the flavor you pictured in your head but it could still turn out great.

Thanks for the advice. After steeping the grains, the recipe said to bring it to a gentle rolling boil, remove, add the LME and sugar, and then bring back to a boil. Or at least, that's how I read it.

As for the water, I didn't boil it. I'll be sure to get mineral water next time.

I've kind of resigned myself to the fact that it won't be very good for the first batch. Oh well.

Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the advice. After steeping the grains, the recipe said to bring it to a gentle rolling boil, remove, add the LME and sugar, and then bring back to a boil. Or at least, that's how I read it.

As for the water, I didn't boil it. I'll be sure to get mineral water next time.

I've kind of resigned myself to the fact that it won't be very good for the first batch. Oh well.

Thanks again!

It should be fine, don't worry! Ideally, you'd add the yeast when the wort is at 65 degrees or so, and keep it at that temperature (at least under 72 degrees anyway) during fermentation. Higher temperatures often cause fruity flavors and while the beer may be drinkable, it is better to maintain a temperature in the 60s for best flavor.

You never want to use "mineral water"- minerals in the water could make an unpleasantly flavored beer (minerally tasting). You can use distilled or reverse osmosis water, if you want to buy water. Even "spring water" should be avoided if it has minerals in it.
 
I put a cold wet towel around the bucket and sat it next to an A/C vent. Temperature in the house is usually around 65-70 degrees.

Using a swamp cooler is fairly simple if you have the room for it. This is a picture of my old set up. I've left the thermometer strip uncovered to keep it dry and not cooled by the fan.

698resized.JPG
 
It should be fine, don't worry! Ideally, you'd add the yeast when the wort is at 65 degrees or so, and keep it at that temperature (at least under 72 degrees anyway) during fermentation.

You never want to use "mineral water"- minerals in the water could make an unpleasantly flavored beer (minerally tasting). You can use distilled or reverse osmosis water, if you want to buy water. Even "spring water" should be avoided if it has minerals in it.

distilled, yes sorry. I used to buy distilled water. they are usually right next to each other in grocery stores. I think of tap water as a mineral water itself. It definately picks up a lot of stuff if its well water or city water.
 
Thanks for the advice. After steeping the grains, the recipe said to bring it to a gentle rolling boil, remove, add the LME and sugar, and then bring back to a boil. Or at least, that's how I read it.

As for the water, I didn't boil it. I'll be sure to get mineral water next time.

I've kind of resigned myself to the fact that it won't be very good for the first batch. Oh well.

Thanks again!

ah yep, its been awhile since ive done kits, steeping grain, then bring to a boil, then add the lme. Definately stir the lme in as quickly as possible to prevent it from burning. Ive made that mistake so I know it can happen.

Personally now between extract kits and all grain batch brewing, I find the latter is the easier method.
 
Thanks everyone! Since I wrapped the towel and sat it next to the vent, the temperature has come down a little, but still nowhere near the 60's. I'll see if I can set up something like that swamp cooler soon.
 
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