Jus' can't get that malty feelin'

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ejg700

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I'm at a loss. I'm relatively new to all grain brewing, and I just can't seem to make a beer with the type of flavor profile that I'm looking for. I have done extract brews for a while, and they all have turned out excellent. I've brewed about one hundred gallons of all grain beer, and they've all out been sub par. I like a malty beer with a complex flavor profile, yet non of my beers have had any appreciable malt character. Here are the things that I've tried:

The first thing I looked at was my grain bill. I've tried gists with up to 60% Munich, and two pounds of melanoidin malt per five gallon batch- nothing.
I tried adding a bunch specially malts, and all I got was mud, with no malt flavor. I've upped my mash temperature to up to 160 with no determinable difference. I know that a higher mash temperature really just results in a more dexterious beer, with more mouth feel, but I've read that some guys have success making a maltier beer with higher mash temperature. Then I looked at my yeast. I tried using yeasts with a "maltier profile," like White Labs London ale, and English Ale, and nothing. I've also tried using yeast nutrient/booster cocktail to no avail. I've tried the "no sparge,"method, and a huge grain bill, and all I got was a super high OG. Then I tried a single decoction mash, and a four hour boil. I figured that this had to do it, because my wort turned dark brown, and the darkest malt I used was two pounds of honey malt in an eighteen pound gist consisting of light Munich, Optic, Melanoidin, and Golden Promise,( My LHBS was out of most everything that day, so I had to improvise.) Nothing. I've tried thicker, and thinner mashes with no avail. Lastly, I looked at my water. I don't use my tap water, because frankly I wouldn't water my plants with that stuff. I had been using RO water, and then read that it lacks the minerals to for an efficient mash, and yeast health. I tried my local grocery store spring water, and one gram of calcium carbonate for a 3 gallon batch. That didn't do it either. I'm obviously doing something very wrong, but what? Here is my process.

First, I heat my strike water. I use a strike water temperature calculator, and it's usually hits my strike temp pretty closely. I mash for one hour. Next I transfer the wort into the boil kettle, no sparge. I boil for about ninety minuets, and add hops according to my IBU calculator. Here is the part that isn't so consistent. Sometimes I put the boil kettle in the freezer, or fridge, and let it cool down overnight to eighty. That's when I'm feeling lazy. Usually I carefully siphon the hot wort into a PETA carboy, and cool it in an ice bath. This usually takes about ninety minutes. Finally, I pitch my starter into the wort, and shake the schit out of it. In about three to four weeks, I end up with with something that usually ends up mostly down the drain. I swear, the sewer gremlins love me, as they can usually plan their parties around the same time each month. To whomever can help me figure out what the heck I'm doing wrong, I'll love you long time. The sewer gremlins... Maybe not so much:D
 
Sounds like your water, are you checking your mash ph?Also. Really 3-4 weeks(in the bottle?) then down the drain?What about yeast temps? What kind of malty beers do you like that you want?Are you using recipes? Why no sparge?. Are you doing an iodine check for conversion. Sounds like your not getting all those sugars out? Are they sweet?
I made a what would have been more malty or body, pale ale until i found out my thermometer was 10 degrees off, so i mashed in the low 40's.It turned out thin but still ok,im going with time on that one like usually when i think one is just ok within a month,9 times out of 10 its always better than ok after month to month....
 
I'm glad you mentioned the thermometer! I was going to check into that, but forgot the last time. I had a suspected it might be that, as it's reading 98, and I know it's nowhere near that. I would be why my yeast stalled when it read 62, and there was still blocks of ice in the water... Thanks! I'm still going to invest in a PH meter, as I have no idea what the mash PH has been. Also I'm thinking longer mash times, just cuz. I've done the iodine test and they usually come back non reactive. I usually get good conversion. I haven't done a sparge, as I've read that the no sparge method yields a maltier beer. But come to think of it, as long as my PH is correct, a sparge, with longer boil time would basically be the same thing without the wasted grain.

The beers haven't been awful, just not great. And if they're not great, I won't drink them, or share them. Perhaps instead of throwing them out, I should put an ad on Craigslist? I'm hoping that between getting the PH worked out, and getting a working thermometer, I won't have to? To be continued...
 
Sometimes its hard to figure things out as there are so many possibilities,but glad if you know for shure to recalibrate your thermometer, i have a dial one and i think i was harsh with it and gave it some good drops and it offset it,its got a nut that you turn underneath to adjust it. I would recommend also writing everything down when you brew,water,sanitizer what kind of water ph... just everything you do, you will start to notice things and learn from patterns. Im still learning and i always seem to go back to my notes to figure out what works or what i used that is similar or better.

Right now im trying to figure out if i can get away with using ro water for a belgian/wheat with with some pilsner 60% wheat and the rest i dont know yet, im not shure if wheat is like how pilsner is with being ok with soft water.I kinda made a mistake of using spring with a lager when i could have used ro water instead i think for a mash. Its good so far but not carbed yet ,but just wonder the difference with water in a lager.
 
I've looked into the 5.2, but read of people having mixed results from it. I suppose it can't hurt to try though. Definitely good advice on the digital thermo. Mine was off by twelve degrees. I have been thinking about starting a brewing log. I used to be able to remember every precise detail, but now that I'm getting older, I can't even seem to remember where I put my wallet in keys on a daily basis.
 
Funny you guys mention the themometer. My last two brews went 1.08 and 1.04 and It came to me that maybe the thermometer took a poop. Bought a new one and sure enough. 6 degrees off. 153 mash > 147. That explains it.

I got caught in the 5.2. Actually I sent my wife in to get it. I didnt know it was like a year supply. But I have used it and thing are going well so I am afraid to not use it. I really need to get strips and see what is really going on.
 
What temp are you mashing at? Temp affects "malt flavor". Lower temp gives a more fermentable wort but lessens the malty flavor a bit. higher tem gives a less fermentable maltier wort.
 
First, don't throw your beer out - you've brewed over 100 gallons, if you have it bottled, keep it a minimum of 6 months. Now that my pipeline is finally where I want it to be, most beers are enjoyed at about 4 months at the earliest. It can make a big difference.

Second, check the calibration of your thermometer. Fill a big bowl with ice, add water to cover and stir it. After 5 min, it should read 32F. Also check it in boiling water, you're looking for 212.

Third, taste your wort when you sparge. Is it sweet?

Fourth, and this is important (since I'm a chemist I'm big on this): Don't adjust your water willy-nilly. I'm all for adjusting your salts, but don't do it unless you have done the homework for it. Just putting in a gram here of this, a teaspoon there of that is meaningless, just taking stabs in the dark. If you use bottled water, you should be able to find the water profile of what you're starting with, and you can download and use one of the several spreadsheets you can find on this site to hit some targets.
 
Fourth, and this is important (since I'm a chemist I'm big on this): Don't adjust your water willy-nilly. I'm all for adjusting your salts, but don't do it unless you have done the homework for it. Just putting in a gram here of this, a teaspoon there of that is meaningless, just taking stabs in the dark. If you use bottled water, you should be able to find the water profile of what you're starting with, and you can download and use one of the several spreadsheets you can find on this site to hit some targets.

Does it make sense to mash with distilled water (pH LTE 7) if your tap water is routinely over 8.2 ? (I have kept freshwater aquariums for years, and have tested the water in this apartment)

I understand that distilled water is free of minerals which are beneficial to brewing, but maybe if you start with distilled water and add Burton salts, etc.

I've brewed with bottled water, and have (recently) used Campden tabs to treat my tap water (high choloramines - thanks municipal water report).

I still think the brews made with the bottled water came out better. My tap water is okay to drink when I run it through a carbon filter, but I certainly wouldn't keep delicate freshwater fish in it and so yeah.... I question whether or not starting with distilled water in the mashing process adds some measure of control or if it's just another waste of money.
 
It sounds like it would be a water related issue to me. If you're using RO water, there are basically no minerals to speak of. That alone will give your beer a one dimensional flavour profile. As for spring water, unless you can get your hands on the analysis from the supplier, you're never really going to know if it's source provides a soft or hard mineral content. More importantly, the chloride/sulfate ratio.

Your best bet is to get a water analysis from the city's water department. If you're looking at the numbers of your local water you can dilute or add certain minerals to it to create the profile that will accommodate to maltier beers. Assuming you run it through a carbon filter of course.

Everything from chloride/sulfate ratio, calcium, magnesium, etc will impact the beer in different ways.


This will help immensely;
http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/


...have fun!
 
You would only need to start with distilled water or dilute with distilled water if you are looking to make a beer that requires very soft water, i.e. if you are looking to have a very low calcium concentration for example. The pH of your water is not so much the important parameter, the resultant pH of your mash is by far more important. pH in and of itself in this capacity is halfway meaningless. You need to know your hardness and residual alkalinity before that has any sway over your decisions.

And like what others have said, if you wish to use the 5.2 product at least its a start. That product is essentially a buffer which will keep your mash at pH 5.2. I've never used that product so I don't know its buffering capacity, I understand it is a phosphate buffer.

However, it is my opinion that you would be better off if you decided on a baseline water - that is to say pick a bottled water, a distilled water, an RO water, a blend thereof, whatever, and discover its ion content. For example if I was unable to use my tap water I would use Deer Park and look up its water quality report from whichever spring it comes, I'm sure it is available somewhere. Then make ion additions to that appropriate for the style of beer you want to make and your pH will fall into line as a result. No real need for the 5.2 product.
 
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