JEnglish eBIAB Dual 2000W 120V Recirculating Build

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JEnglish

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Hello!

Last December my grandpa randomly had the idea to go to our LHBS after we started talking about how he made wine "back in the day." Needless to say...the addiction began. Even though I don't post very often, I am on HBT quite a bit. I initially bought the Deluxe Starter kit from Brewers Best and got an 8 gal stainless kettle to go with it. I have only attempted to brew extract batches and have wanted to make the jump to all grain for a while now. At first I was looking at building a 3 vessel propane system, but I decided I wanted something slightly more compact. Since I am a college student, I need something that can be used in an apartment without the risk of getting evicted. Even though I love having lots of beer, I figured 5-6 gallon batches are the perfect size for me. After a lot of browsing through the electric brewing forums, I stumbled on Russkis build. Having read his thread, I figured I would give an eBIAB build a go. Due to school/Rugby/financial reasons I have slowly been working on building my system. I had no experience building anything like this when I started...but it has been a fun learning experience.

I am uploading the pictures with image shack and cant rotate some of them. As I update this thread ill try and fix that...

I decided to go with 120V because not all apartments will have a 240V outlet. I can also swap out the elements for something smaller if needed be. Here is the wiring diagram I used (thanks P-J):
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I ordered most of my stuff from Auber Instruments (the PID is SYL 2352). I found the plastic box on Amazon. After a while of messing with the layout, this is what I came up with:
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Here is what it looks like after I cut all the holes and put the switches, PID, and Buzzer in. I had gone to a party that night and decided 3am was a good time to cut all the holes. I had forgotten about what I had done the next morning, but I think it turned out well since I was relatively hammered.
rfu3.jpg


Since the box didn't come with a back plate, I had to make my own. I bought a 1'x1' piece of metal sheeting from Home Depot and cut it to fit inside the box. The contactors I used were from Blazer and the SSR's are from Auber. I cannibalized an old DC to AC converter so I could attach the SSR's to a heat sink. Here is what the inside looks like with the hardware in it:
9ih1.jpg


My next step was figuring out how I wanted all the cords to come in/leave the box. I walked around Home Depot for a while and decided to attach some metal outlet boxes on the side. The 2 gang box has two single 20A outlets for power to the kettle and the 1 gang box has another 20A outlet for the pump. After I attached the boxes, I wished I had put a 2 gang box on the left instead of just a 1 gang box for more space (the power cords come in on the left).
vubi.jpg


Here is a pic with the lid closed. The red part is the heat sink I cannibalized from the power converter. I went to every electric supply store I could find and no one had heat sinks in town...ill find out later if it gets too hot.
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Since I wanted to be able to brew outside if its nice out, I picked up a 100' extension cord. I have two 40' sections that bring power into my system, and I made two 10' sections that will connect my control box to the kettle.
oxkr.jpg


I won't show the wiring because it is really messy inside (its my first time wiring something like this). One of these days if I rebuild the control box or just want to clean the wiring up, ill tear it all out and make it look nice. I installed the RTD probe in the front of the box and got everything labeled. Here is what the finished control box looks like:
46x7.jpg


For my kettle, I bought a Stainless 44 qt Bayou Classic Fryer. It came with the frying basket and was on sale on Amazon. I drilled the holes in the bottom for all the couplers. I have a 1/2" coupler for the ball valve/dip tube, 1" half couplers for the elements, and a 1/2" half coupler for the sight glass/RTD probe. Here is a pic of my kettle, basket, sight glass, and couplers:
h0js.jpg


This is everything I have done right now. The couplers should be welded on by Friday. If all goes according to plan, I will have the kettle finished this weekend. I still need to figure out what the stand is going to look like. I need to either build something that can store everything or buy one. I also want to buy an extra lid and attach a copper or stainless immersion chiller to it w/ quick disconnects on top. Since I am only brewing 5-6 gal batches, I don't see the need for a counter flow/plate chiller.
 
I swapped out the heatsink for a better one...
8sma.jpg


When I did a test run, the heatsink got hot enough to burn me. The fan is a 3" computer fan from Radioshack. It turns on when the PID turns on and the heatsink doesn't even get warm now.
p65v.jpg


Here is a pic of my element housing. Since the cords plug into the kettle, I used twist-lock plugs.
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Pic from 1st brewday
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I mounted the control box to a Husky cabinet. Everything I need on a brew-day fits nicely inside.
zsgt.jpg


7qdk.jpg


Home depot was out of 20A outlets/plugs so I used 30A outlets/plugs instead for the incoming power. They are overkill...but there was no price difference and I did not want to wait.
4plf.jpg
 
Nice. What are the dimensions of that enclosure? Do you have a link for it?
 
Your control panel is pretty straight considering you decided to cut the holes at 3am after partying. :D
 
Looking good! I've been very happy with my system so far; glad to have provided inspiration for your build.

As far as the heatsink goes, it certainly looks undersized to me. Check Ebay for a large aluminum heatsink - go as big as you can.

Good luck with your build!
 
Make sure you find 20A outlets for your supply (each on their own breaker). You'll trip breakers on 15A outlets. How much current does your pump pull?
 
I don't have a pump yet...but i do have it plugged into 2 separate 20A circuits. The back plate is aluminum.
 
As for the heat sink...how hot do SSR's get? Would I also just be able to put a small computer fan blowing air into the box?

My heatsink was getting hot enough to burn you - probably 150F or so. I added a 90mm 110v fan to it for forced cooling, and now it just barely gets warm.

imag0469ko.jpg
 
I bought a 300x120x20 mm heatsink from ebay. Do I need to do anything special for the fan when I wire it to my system? Im going to wire it so that it turns on when my PID turns on.
 
You may want to hold off the fan until you are certain you need it. If you have a large enough heat sink, you orient it so that the fins are vertical, and you don't have it in a confined space, you will likely be fine without it.
 
You may want to hold off the fan until you are certain you need it. If you have a large enough heat sink, you orient it so that the fins are vertical, and you don't have it in a confined space, you will likely be fine without it.

What he said, with a 300x120x20 heatsink you may not need the fan. Mine is about half that size. You may want to space the SSRs out a bit to allow for more even heat distribution. Do a test run to see how hot it gets.
 
All the couplers are welded on my kettle now, so I'll be installing the elements, sight glass, probe, etc... tonight. I'll have to shorten the heat sink I ordered a little bit. 300mm long is practically the length of my box.
 
I finished everything on the kettle today and noticed I had a little problem when I tried to do a test run. One of my SSR's doesn't work. Talk about a buzz kill...
 
I got the SSR and heatsink swapped out today. The new heatsink still got hot enough that I couldn't keep my hand on it for any extended periods of time. Ill pick up a 100mmish fan and post some more pics tomorrow.
 
I just posted a few pics of the new heatsink and kettle in the beginning of the thread. The only thing I need now is a pump and dip tube. I have noticed a lot of people go with a March or Chugger. What are the perks from using one of these brands?
 
Here is a pic of my kettle from the side. Since the cords plug into the kettle, I used twist-lock plugs. Yes that is Duct Tape on the element housing too. The boxes I used were missing some knockouts and I wanted something semi water resistant if I have a boil over. One of these days i'll clean up the wiring and make nicer looking element housing.
dz5a.jpg
Can't tell from the pic if the kettle has male or female plugs on it. If you're using female on the kettle, then you have live prongs on the controller side - that is really unsafe. I would suggest changing that before someone gets hurt...
 
It's got female plugs on the kettle side. I used twist-lock outlets so they can't accidentally come loose while brewing.
 
It's got female plugs on the kettle side. I used twist-lock outlets so they can't accidentally come loose while brewing.
This is a major problem - when the controller is on, the male prongs are hot. You NEVER, EVER, have live male prongs. Doesn't matter if it's twist-lock or not, this is a basic electric design principle and an accident waiting to happen. Only female plugs can be hot. I VERY HIGHLY recommend that you redesign this part - there are recessed male twist-lock receptacles you can use on the kettle.
 
I'll change the plugs to male on the kettle. This was the excuse I needed to make better element housing too. On another note, I have been having problems with my PID. I used auto tune and everything seems fine until I switch to manual mode for the boil. Every time I auto tune, it changes my cycle time (T) to 20+ and is causing a pulsing boil. When I change T to 1 or 2, the PV shoots up to the 800's. Is there something I can do to fix this? Since I'm using SSR's I should be able to use a small cycle time.
 
I happen to have a spare twist-lock male inlet (NEMA L5-20P) and 20-amp (NEMA 5-20P) to twist-lock female (NEMA L5-20R) extension cord. I was going to use it for a 2000W 120V RIMS toolbox, but changed my mind after I'd bought everything. It's only half of what you'd need, but those parts ain't cheap so PM me if you want it.
 
I'll change the plugs to male on the kettle. This was the excuse I needed to make better element housing too. On another note, I have been having problems with my PID. I used auto tune and everything seems fine until I switch to manual mode for the boil. Every time I auto tune, it changes my cycle time (T) to 20+ and is causing a pulsing boil. When I change T to 1 or 2, the PV shoots up to the 800's. Is there something I can do to fix this? Since I'm using SSR's I should be able to use a small cycle time.

That's weird - what temperature do you start your auto-tune? When I tune mine (had to do it a few times), I would set the temp to 160F, and start the auto-tune once it got around 140F.

Have you talked to Auber?
 
I started auto tune at 140 and I had SV at 152. I have auto tuned It a few times and get the same result every time. Ill call auber later today if I can't figure it out.
 
@Jeffmeh - I am going to use the Powercon connectors. They are cheap and just what I need.

I also got the PID working after I called Auber the other day. I will redo the element housing sometime this week. I am a little busy with school.
 
@Jeffmeh - I am going to use the Powercon connectors. They are cheap and just what I need.

I also got the PID working after I called Auber the other day. I will redo the element housing sometime this week. I am a little busy with school.

Sounds good. I know I linked to the 32a ones, forgetting that you were running 120v, 20a. The 20a ones should do fine.

Do you have a picture of the inside of the panel? I want to see how you squeezed everything in vertically. Thanks.
 
9ih1.jpg


The PID fits in between the contactors. The push buttons have about 1 1/2" clearance on top of the contactors and SSR's.
 
Once you get your pump, how do you plan to implement recirculation? I'm planning a similar build and am looking at ways to recirculate with BIAB. Also, it seems a short step from there to cooling with a plate chiller. Is that in your plans as well?
 
Once you get your pump, how do you plan to implement recirculation? I'm planning a similar build and am looking at ways to recirculate with BIAB. Also, it seems a short step from there to cooling with a plate chiller. Is that in your plans as well?


I am looking at putting a weldless bulkhead on the kettle lid and attaching a QD to it for recirculating the mash. Brewhardware.com is probably where I am going to get the pump, QD's, and weldless fitting from.

Since I will be using QD's on my pump/tubing, it will be easy to incorporate a plate chiller. I haven't decided if I want one yet, but I will see how long it takes me to chill my wort with the immersion chiller I have.

Link to the weldless bulkheads:
http://www.brewhardware.com/valves-69/59-weldless-bulkhead

If you don't plan on recirculating above 170 degrees, this can be handy:
http://www.brewhardware.com/accessories-62/114-mashtube

Here is the link to the pump kit I will probably buy:
http://www.brewhardware.com/pumps/160-addapump
 
JEnglish, thanks for posting all the pics, particularly showing the box internals. It appears that my long-planned, hopefully to be realized in a few years, design can all fit in that panel, with some care taken to place the components to avoid vertical collisions.

Now, let's just finish these years of paying for two kids in college.... :)
 
I changed the element housing. The pic is at the beginning of the thread.
 
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