Intertap beer faucets

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Why such a long line​? It's nice to fill from the tap isn't it?

IMG_20160811_181626485.jpg
 
pvpeacock said:
Do you use stoppers on the tubes to keep the bottle/growler partially pressurized when filling or do you just use it as is? If the latter,isn't foaming a problem? Thanks
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I don't use a stopper, just as is. No foam for me. I always freeze my bottles before filling them as well. That helps keep the foam down.
 
richard_lindsay said:
Have I just missed the boat on the flow control Intertaps from Ali Express? ��

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-quality-Stainless-Steel-INTERTAP-FC-TAP-ONLY-FLOW-CONTROL-Black-tap-handle-as-gift-home/1850830_1000001060668.html
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I'd go with the better deal from US supplier. http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/3-pack-intertap-forward-sealing-stainless-flow-control-faucet/

We have a nitro coffee shop nearby using these, and fwiw they said they are happy with them.
 
So these faucets have been around for some time and so far I haven't really seen anyone compare the stout spout with an actual stout faucet.

I recently purchased 8 of the FC Intertap G2's to replace my Perlick 525's and grabbed a couple of the stout spouts from ali-express.

Yesterday they finally arrived and I have to say, I'm not really pleased with the way that they compare to my stout faucet. For one, with the FC all the way open, it blasts out of there way faster than the stout faucet and even though it does have a cascading effect, it's not nearly as nice as the stout faucet creates and once settled, has less foam on top.
Adjusting the FC down helps the output force, but also hurts the cascading effect even more.

Comparing the restrictor plates on both faucets it was pretty apparent that the Intertaps have larger holes in theirs, so I would have to assume that it is the reason for the increased flow.

So, for now, I'm still using my stout faucet as the pour is much nicer.
I'd love to hear anyone else's experience with this though!

A little more info... I serve cold brewed coffee using 100% nitrogen around 30-35psi.
For beers through the stout faucet, I use beergas (25% co2 75% nitrogen) at around the same pressure.
 
krazydave said:
So these faucets have been around for some time and so far I haven't really seen anyone compare the stout spout with an actual stout faucet.
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I mentioned a while back that I was going to do just that! Unfortunately I have neither a convenient source for beer gas, nor a beer I'd actually want to put on nitro, so it hasn't really been high on my priority list. Hopefully this summer I'll finish my nitro setup and do a side-by-side. :mug:
 
I finally got a chance to take a pic of the restrictor plates from both faucets. As it turns out, they are the same size, just with different sized holes in them.

As a test, I tried swapping the one with smaller holes into the Intertap spout to see if it helped.
Though it did slow the flow down slightly, it still did not give nearly as good of a pour as the stout faucet does. And again, if I adjusted the flow control, it would slow it down, but then I would get even less of the stout effect in the pour.

So, sadly, it doesn't look like I'll be using the stout spouts that I bought anytime soon.

Again, full disclosure here that I am still testing this with coldbrew coffee that is not carbonated with any co2. It's using 100% nitrogen at 35psi with 10' of 3/16 ID line.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1498829692.045979.jpg
 
What, exactly, are you trying to do with the cold-brewed coffee? You're not going to get that cascade effect with no carbonation, and nitrogen won't dissolve into solution in any appreciable quantity. You would be better served just pushing at normal pressures with nitrogen if you're not looking for a carbonated beverage.
 
The_Bishop said:
What, exactly, are you trying to do with the cold-brewed coffee? You're not going to get that cascade effect with no carbonation, and nitrogen won't dissolve into solution in any appreciable quantity. You would be better served just pushing at normal pressures with nitrogen if you're not looking for a carbonated beverage.
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You do get that cascading effect with pure nitrogen and no co2 carbonation and I'd be happy to prove it to you. Though it doesn't go into solution as much as co2 does, it does go into solution enough to create quite a nice cascading effect just like a beer with a low volume of co2 would have.

The belief that nitrogen does not go into solution is something that you read all over HBT. I used to be one to preach it myself, also. However, after making coffee for a while now and seeing the effect first hand, it's clearly not the case. I in fact either have to use a carbonation stone, or shake the crap out of the keg to get it into solution. But it's very apparently a different pour if you do neither of those.

Nitrogen just doesn't have as much explosive release as co2, nor the carbonic bite that beer needs for balance. So in effect, a pure nitrogen beer would taste damn flat.
Coffee on the other hand does not taste good at all with any co2 present.

Like I said though, I have yet to put a beer on tap to test the Intertap stout spouts, so I'm sure with some finagling of pressures and flow control, I could get a decent cascading pour. But still comparing to the actual stout faucet, I'm not sure that the stout spouts will be able to match the ease.

They are definitely a cheaper option than buying stout faucets though, I can say that.
If you can source them at least. lol
 
Don't think I can embed a video from my phone, but here's a video that I just took of the cascading effect in the coffee.

To further answer your question, the nitrogen head that settles out on the coldbrew gives the sensation of adding creamer to your coffee. It is something that is desirable over just having a flat pour of the same coffee.

https://youtu.be/m30n07d1S-E
 
Well, I didn't say *none* of it would go into solution. What I mean is that I don't believe enough of it would go into solution to make any sort of difference.

At 10C and one atmosphere of pressure, the solubility of CO2 in water is around 2.5 grams per kilogram of water. Nitrogen is slightly less than .025 grams per kilogram. That's 1/100th of the volume of CO2. I can't see that miniscule amount making an appreciable difference.
 
Well, I believe the proof is in the pour in this case.
The next batch I make, I'll try to remember to take a video prior to using the carbonating lid on the keg. It basically is a flat pour with zero cascade effect at that point.

I don't really believe that the creamy head on coffee necessarily changes the flavor any either, it's more of a mouthfeel effect that we're trying to achieve here. And the head will generally settle to about 1/2" and last for the entire time you're drinking it.
 
krazydave

I tested nitrogen pressures from 30psi and up last year and have found that using a stout faucet it is necessary to use a high pressure and a carbonating stone to get the cascade effect I desire.

I debated getting another intertap and a spout for a portable kegerator but went for another stout faucet. Probably better for high pressure.

We are now pressurizing for 3 days at 65psi then serving at same, up from 55psi last year. Made 20 gallons this week.

TerryM
 
coffeecontact said:
krazydave

I tested nitrogen pressures from 30psi and up last year and have found that using a stout faucet it is necessary to use a high pressure and a carbonating stone to get the cascade effect I desire.

I debated getting another intertap and a spout for a portable kegerator but went for another stout faucet. Probably better for high pressure.

We are now pressurizing for 3 days at 65psi then serving at same, up from 55psi last year. Made 20 gallons this week.

TerryM
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Yes, I would definitely say that you were better off getting the stout faucet. Even at 30-35psi, the coffee comes out of the Intertap with the stout tip on extremely fast. I can't even imagine what 55psi would do.

Thanks for your experience! I will have to experiment some with higher pressures and longer carb times. Typically I slowly ramp up pressure using a stone about 3-5psi every few minutes until I'm at 35-40 and serve at that same pressure.
Doing that usually gets me a good cascading effect and a 1/2" head that lasts quite a while.
 
Hey all - I picked up a few of the 8473's (FC style,) does anyone happen to have tear down instructions or how-to for cleaning? I of course unboxed and took one apart and now am now at a loss on how to get the shuttle and FC components out of the tap body
 
Bean said:
Hey all - I picked up a few of the 8473's (FC style,) does anyone happen to have tear down instructions or how-to for cleaning? I of course unboxed and took one apart and now am now at a loss on how to get the shuttle and FC components out of the tap body
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Not an actual how to tear down instruction sheet, but it should provide the information to get you on your way.

http://www.intertap.beer/Downloads/Intertap 8473.pdf
 
I have the ss with flow control which helps greatly with foam control. Highly recommend these taps!!!
 
Im having nothing but trouble with the flow control faucets... nothing but foam no matter what I do... im in the process of degassing my kegs and trying to re-balance my system. I was hoping to keep my kegs at carbing pressure and use the flow control to manage my severing pressure, not sure if thats possible
 
Bean said:
Im having nothing but trouble with the flow control faucets... nothing but foam no matter what I do... im in the process of degassing my kegs and trying to re-balance my system. I was hoping to keep my kegs at carbing pressure and use the flow control to manage my severing pressure, not sure if thats possible
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  • What was your keg carbonation process?
  • What is your storage pressure?
  • What is your beer line inside diameter?
  • What is the length of your beer lines?

Brew on :mug:
 
I'm a fan of set it and forget it. My keggerator sits at 38F with 10 pounds on the kegs, I have 3/16" x 10' beer lines.

I degassed the kegs and set everything to 5 pounds. I am getting better pours so long as I pour into a pitcher, I notice I will get a few seconds of beer then a burp of foam, more beer, then some foam. Im not playing with the FC at all during the pour either so not sure whats going on there..

Im considering doing a proper cleaning on the lines with the FC's on to clean out any shipping oils that might be in the faucets to see if that was it..
 
Bean said:
I'm a fan of set it and forget it. My keggerator sits at 38F with 10 pounds on the kegs, I have 3/16" x 10' beer lines.

I degassed the kegs and set everything to 5 pounds. I am getting better pours so long as I pour into a pitcher, I notice I will get a few seconds of beer then a burp of foam, more beer, then some foam. Im not playing with the FC at all during the pour either so not sure whats going on there..

Im considering doing a proper cleaning on the lines with the FC's on to clean out any shipping oils that might be in the faucets to see if that was it..
Click to expand...

At those settings, etc. you shouldn't be having problem pours, even with ordinary taps. Cleaning sounds like a good idea. Do you have a fan in the keezer/keggerator to eliminate temp variations? Beer lines that are warmer than the beer can cause issues. Another problem folks run into is bad "O" rings on the liquid dip tube. This can let CO2 into the beer lines from the headspace.

Brew on :mug:
 
Ill give the o-rings a check, this is a fresh keggerator, I do have circulation fan but I don't have any insulation on my collar yet.. Looks like ill use this as an excuse to push me to finish it completely. Thanks for the tips!
 
Bean said:
I'm a fan of set it and forget it. My keggerator sits at 38F with 10 pounds on the kegs, I have 3/16" x 10' beer lines.

I degassed the kegs and set everything to 5 pounds. I am getting better pours so long as I pour into a pitcher, I notice I will get a few seconds of beer then a burp of foam, more beer, then some foam. Im not playing with the FC at all during the pour either so not sure whats going on there..

Im considering doing a proper cleaning on the lines with the FC's on to clean out any shipping oils that might be in the faucets to see if that was it..
Click to expand...

Unfortunately the flow control can't really help with the foam burps.

My guess is that the CO2 is coming out of solution during the time between pours from one day to the next. I have similar issues. Once you purge the line it's not a problem, but let the taps sit overnight and it happens again. Are your lines coiled? I'm guessing that the escaped gas rises to the highest point of each coil, so you get a burp of foam for each loop in your line.

You can try lowering your kegerator temperature, and adding a fan to circulate air (if you don't have one already) to even out the temps from the bottom of your keg to the top and possibly keep a little more gas in solution, but it really isn't too big of a deal after the first pour each day.

FWIW, my keezer is set at 38°F and between 8-12 psi depending on style, so we're pretty much in the same boat.
 
I do have a fan for circulation but haven't had time to insulate my collar, which is over 10 inches and my coiled lines are sitting on top of my kegs in the collar space.

I've been degassing my kegs and am hoping it was a simple over carb issue. I guess I was hoping the FC's were the be all end all problem solver of any kegging issues you might run into and that isn't the case.
 
Bean said:
I do have a fan for circulation but haven't had time to insulate my collar, which is over 10 inches and my coiled lines are sitting on top of my kegs in the collar space.

I've been degassing my kegs and am hoping it was a simple over carb issue. I guess I was hoping the FC's were the be all end all problem solver of any kegging issues you might run into and that isn't the case.
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Insulate the collar. It's most likely not an overcarb issue. I have the same problem, even with lower carbed beers - bitters, milds, and the like - and that's with insulation and a fan, but I typically only have one or two beers a day, so the lines have plenty of time to accumulate gas.
 
For those of you who use the growler filler to fill 12 oz bottles directly from the tap.... are you having any issues with oxidation? I submitted a beer into a competition recently and the judges claimed it was oxidized. I screw the growler filler in, and attach a bottling wand off of the end of the growler filler.
 
treacheroustexan said:
For those of you who use the growler filler to fill 12 oz bottles directly from the tap.... are you having any issues with oxidation?
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I have not yet, but i fill growlers or swingtop bottles and put them in the fridge.

That said, I leave my growler filler tip on there all the time now, just put the hose on when filling.....
 
treacheroustexan said:
For those of you who use the growler filler to fill 12 oz bottles directly from the tap.... are you having any issues with oxidation? I submitted a beer into a competition recently and the judges claimed it was oxidized. I screw the growler filler in, and attach a bottling wand off of the end of the growler filler.
Click to expand...

I use the Perlick 600 series growler filler (fits perfectly into Intertaps), and sometimes the tube doesn't fill completely with beer, presumably leaving the beer in contact with the air in the tubing. Since the Intertap takes a larger diameter tubing, I wonder if your tube isn't filling completely, leaving more air in the tube (than the Perlick). That said, even with air still in the smaller filler tube I have never had oxidation reported on a scoresheet.

I fill the bottle, and as I'm removing the tubing from the bottle I dip my oxygen-absorbing cap into sanitizer, then cap immediately. Maybe your caps aren't as tight as they should be?

The only problem I've ever had bottling from the growler filler is sometimes my IPAs loose some of their hop character, but never oxidation.
 
eulipion2 said:
I use the Perlick 600 series growler filler (fits perfectly into Intertaps), and sometimes the tube doesn't fill completely with beer, presumably leaving the beer in contact with the air in the tubing. Since the Intertap takes a larger diameter tubing, I wonder if your tube isn't filling completely, leaving more air in the tube (than the Perlick). That said, even with air still in the smaller filler tube I have never had oxidation reported on a scoresheet.

I fill the bottle, and as I'm removing the tubing from the bottle I dip my oxygen-absorbing cap into sanitizer, then cap immediately. Maybe your caps aren't as tight as they should be?

The only problem I've ever had bottling from the growler filler is sometimes my IPAs loose some of their hop character, but never oxidation.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response! I'm gonna fill a few bottles here in a minute as an experiment to see if there is air in the tube.
 

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