Intertap beer faucets

[Bean]

I do have a fan for circulation but haven't had time to insulate my collar, which is over 10 inches and my coiled lines are sitting on top of my kegs in the collar space.

I've been degassing my kegs and am hoping it was a simple over carb issue. I guess I was hoping the FC's were the be all end all problem solver of any kegging issues you might run into and that isn't the case.

 

[eulipion2]

I do have a fan for circulation but haven't had time to insulate my collar, which is over 10 inches and my coiled lines are sitting on top of my kegs in the collar space.

I've been degassing my kegs and am hoping it was a simple over carb issue. I guess I was hoping the FC's were the be all end all problem solver of any kegging issues you might run into and that isn't the case.

Insulate the collar. It's most likely not an overcarb issue. I have the same problem, even with lower carbed beers - bitters, milds, and the like - and that's with insulation and a fan, but I typically only have one or two beers a day, so the lines have plenty of time to accumulate gas.

 

[Bean]

insulation is the plan. All my silly friends need to stop getting married and having kids... No, I don't want to go to you one year olds birthday.. I want tinker in my brewery, dammit !

 

[okiedog]

Williams brewing has a flow control shank adapter. Although more expensive, it could be used as an alternative to flow control faucets: https://www.williamsbrewing.com/FLOW-CONTROL-SHANK-ADAPTER-P4365.aspx

 

[day_trippr]

Neat! Any chance that thing is fully stainless?

Cheers!

 

[millstone]

Looking at the Q&A it states "Solid stainless steel"

 

[treacheroustexan]

For those of you who use the growler filler to fill 12 oz bottles directly from the tap.... are you having any issues with oxidation? I submitted a beer into a competition recently and the judges claimed it was oxidized. I screw the growler filler in, and attach a bottling wand off of the end of the growler filler.

 

[kristiismean]

For those of you who use the growler filler to fill 12 oz bottles directly from the tap.... are you having any issues with oxidation?

I have not yet, but i fill growlers or swingtop bottles and put them in the fridge.

That said, I leave my growler filler tip on there all the time now, just put the hose on when filling.....

 

[eulipion2]

For those of you who use the growler filler to fill 12 oz bottles directly from the tap.... are you having any issues with oxidation? I submitted a beer into a competition recently and the judges claimed it was oxidized. I screw the growler filler in, and attach a bottling wand off of the end of the growler filler.

I use the Perlick 600 series growler filler (fits perfectly into Intertaps), and sometimes the tube doesn't fill completely with beer, presumably leaving the beer in contact with the air in the tubing. Since the Intertap takes a larger diameter tubing, I wonder if your tube isn't filling completely, leaving more air in the tube (than the Perlick). That said, even with air still in the smaller filler tube I have never had oxidation reported on a scoresheet.

I fill the bottle, and as I'm removing the tubing from the bottle I dip my oxygen-absorbing cap into sanitizer, then cap immediately. Maybe your caps aren't as tight as they should be?

The only problem I've ever had bottling from the growler filler is sometimes my IPAs loose some of their hop character, but never oxidation.

 

[treacheroustexan]

I use the Perlick 600 series growler filler (fits perfectly into Intertaps), and sometimes the tube doesn't fill completely with beer, presumably leaving the beer in contact with the air in the tubing. Since the Intertap takes a larger diameter tubing, I wonder if your tube isn't filling completely, leaving more air in the tube (than the Perlick). That said, even with air still in the smaller filler tube I have never had oxidation reported on a scoresheet.

I fill the bottle, and as I'm removing the tubing from the bottle I dip my oxygen-absorbing cap into sanitizer, then cap immediately. Maybe your caps aren't as tight as they should be?

The only problem I've ever had bottling from the growler filler is sometimes my IPAs loose some of their hop character, but never oxidation.

Thanks for the response! I'm gonna fill a few bottles here in a minute as an experiment to see if there is air in the tube.

 

[eulipion2]

Thanks for the response! I'm gonna fill a few bottles here in a minute as an experiment to see if there is air in the tube.

Out of curiosity, have you (or anyone else) noticed oxidation in the beer when consumed fresh from the tap? Maybe it was exposed somewhere earlier in the process and you just didn't notice it.

 

[treacheroustexan]

Out of curiosity, have you (or anyone else) noticed oxidation in the beer when consumed fresh from the tap? Maybe it was exposed somewhere earlier in the process and you just didn't notice it.

I didn't notice it from the tap on that beer. I'm gonna fill a few bottles now and try one in a week and see what happens. Have another competition in October I need to brew for and need to get this figured out! Hopefully it was just an isolated incident.

 

[mintyice]

,

 

[Justintoxicated]

I use the Perlick 600 series growler filler (fits perfectly into Intertaps), and sometimes the tube doesn't fill completely with beer, presumably leaving the beer in contact with the air in the tubing. Since the Intertap takes a larger diameter tubing, I wonder if your tube isn't filling completely, leaving more air in the tube (than the Perlick). That said, even with air still in the smaller filler tube I have never had oxidation reported on a scoresheet.

I fill the bottle, and as I'm removing the tubing from the bottle I dip my oxygen-absorbing cap into sanitizer, then cap immediately. Maybe your caps aren't as tight as they should be?

The only problem I've ever had bottling from the growler filler is sometimes my IPAs loose some of their hop character, but never oxidation.

You need to purge the bottles with CO2, it helps with foaming if the bottles are cold too. The diameter of the tubing for the growler filler isn't great on these taps either, the perlick style is better. But honestly for competition, I would use a beer gun or counter-pressure filler. Even doing everything right, sometimes you will get oxidized comments from judges after bottling, it can depend allot on how the beer is handled before judging. I purged my bottles with CO2 , froze them, filled them slow, capped on foam, re-topped with CO2 and got "oxidized" comments on my NHC entries this year. I used 3 day shipping to get them across the US so I'm pretty sure they got too hot on the way there, and I didn't have enough insulation and didn't use cold packs which left some oxidized characteristics. Because 6 months later I still have some of that keg and there is no oxidation

It could also just be bad judging

 

[eulipion2]

You need to purge the bottles with CO2, it helps with foaming if the bottles are cold too.

If I don't have foam already I usually give the bottle a little tap to release a little foam, then cap on the foam. Purges the bottle just fine, and again, I've never had oxidation reported in my beers. Just be careful, cap on foam, and you should be good. CPBF is a pain! Haven't used one in years. Maybe if I was planning a beer that I would bottle age for years I might go with a CO2 flush + bottle filler, but for competitions the growler filler has done me proud for a few years now.

Even doing everything right, sometimes you will get oxidized comments from judges after bottling, it can depend allot on how the beer is handled before judging. ... I used 3 day shipping to get them across the US so I'm pretty sure they got too hot on the way there, and I didn't have enough insulation and didn't use cold packs which left some oxidized characteristics.

Probably the heat speeding oxidation. Maybe if I'd shipped my beers that far I might have had that problem, but alas, I had no good luck at NHC this year. All the other comp entries I dropped off myself, so I could control the temperature on my drive.

It could also just be bad judging

Also very true, unfortunately.

 

[Justintoxicated]

If I don't have foam already I usually give the bottle a little tap to release a little foam, then cap on the foam. Purges the bottle just fine, and again, I've never had oxidation reported in my beers. Just be careful, cap on foam, and you should be good. CPBF is a pain! Haven't used one in years. Maybe if I was planning a beer that I would bottle age for years I might go with a CO2 flush + bottle filler, but for competitions the growler filler has done me proud for a few years now.


Probably the heat speeding oxidation. Maybe if I'd shipped my beers that far I might have had that problem, but alas, I had no good luck at NHC this year. All the other comp entries I dropped off myself, so I could control the temperature on my drive.


Also very true, unfortunately.

Yea, you know something happened when you get a 1st in the first round, and a poor score in the second. For NHC second round shipments sit for almost a month after shipping before being judged, so any oxidization will show for sure, especially if they are not kept cold. I just do my best, but was hesitant to spend $150 to get those beers there in a day with ice packs. Maybe next year I will be more prepared / wiling to spend a little more on insulated bottle shippers and faster shipping. I find competition bottling and shipping a bit stressful for my tastes.

Local comp, and in a rush I would purge with CO2 off a slip on line on my manifold then growler filler the bottle, but something I am paying more money to enter, break out real equipment. I do find the flow control taps help with those growler fills though, no matter which brand you use . Easier than pulling the gas line and purging co2 anyways

 

[Justintoxicated]

I'm considering trying intertaps again (returned the flow controls) for a jocky box because I would like to have the automatic closing feature that my perls don't offer. (perfect for a jocky box!). However I believe that if you use the springs, you have to use the intertap shanks? Are these offered in a 2.5 or 3" version? 4" will be a bit deep if I swap out the cold plate and put 2.5 gallons kegs in the cooler instead. might be workable though.

 

[imasickboy]

You can use the spring with any shank and any non-flow control faucet.

 

[cuda6pak]

For those with the Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra lines that switched faucets to Intertaps, did you have an increase in foaming due to the faster flow of the Intertaps? I have 15ft lines on mine and think I may try 25ft lines. If I pour a pint it is about half foam, subsequent pours back to back are fine. I have 4 fans in the keezer so I don’t think temp stratification is the issue. My old keezer with the same lines, same JG push fittings, same disconnects, same temperature, but with Perlicks poured amazing.

I'd hate to switch out all the lines with longer ones and have the same problem. Did you consider going with new EJ Ultra Barrier Silver type tubing instead? Did you try anything else?

I really like the Intertaps but don't know what's worse, changing out and paying for 6 faucets, or changing all line, MFL connectors, tailshanks, and all new clamps whether worm or Oetiker+tool. I also want nothing to do with spoiled beer that sits in the line and leeches flavor which is why I went with the Bev Seal Ultra in the first place.



They are 3/16 ID but like the below poster said they are much less resistance than standard tubing.

I'd imagine the FC on your Intertaps helps a bit. Mine are non-FC.

Picked up 6 G2 FC Intertaps from MoreBeer. We'll see how they pour this weekend and if they help with my foaming issue.

To follow up, I installed all the FC Intertaps on and it helped with the foaming, but did not eliminate it like I thought it would. After quite a bit of research I actually went with 6ft 1/8" ID lines and swapped back on my old non-FC Intertaps and each line is pouring extremely smooth and fully carb'd. Beers ranging from 12-18psi @ 38*.

For those interested in this setup as I haven't seen anyone else that I'm aware of run 1/8" ID -

Beer line (1/8" ID)
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25198&catid=929

Tailpiece
http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=376_17_46_417&products_id=2879

MFL Swivel for both ends (SwvlNutSet - 04C03264IH) - Slides right over the line
http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=375_19_220_286&products_id=501

Nylon flare washer (Clear = 1/4"-5/16" - 04E04291ih)
http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=375_19_220_285&products_id=1412

And then regular tailpiece hex nut and washer. I also clamped each end down with Oetiker clamps.

And now for what I hope to be my final follow up after about 3-4 kegs.

What seemed to be happening sporadically with the Intertap+1/8" ID set up was a venturi effect with back to back pours. For whatever reason, the design of the Intertaps give a much more aggressive flow and thus sort of a violent open/close on the fluid. This promotes foaming and back to back pours would exaggerate it quite a bit. I also noticed as the keg got low this would get even worse, which is somewhat typical, but was getting to the point it was worse than the Intertap + JG/Accuflex setup. I cleared out the lines several times to make sure there wasn't any particles obstructing and there was not.

So, I purchased 6 new Perlick 630SS non-FC taps and all new 18ft Accuflex Bev Seal Ultra lines along with my old JG fittings. This mimicked my original setup on my first keezer that poured so good.

I've been through 1 full keg and several pours from various other kegs at different fill levels and I have to say it is pouring absolutely beautifully. After a week in the keezer without a pull, the first pour will have a perfect 3/4" head. Back to back pours are so smooth that I have to lower the glass to get some head on the pour. The opening/closing of the faucet is WAY less violent and the pours come out right from the start absolutely smooth. This is all with highly carbed 3.0+vol beers and no other changes from either previous Intertap setup.

I have to say I bought into the Intertap hype and tried to get them to work. They FEEL much more rigid and more sturdy than the Perlicks, which due to the design push up against the o-ring and feel more squishy. But, for me, Perlick is the way to go without doubt. I realize everyone's setup is different but I chased my tail around for a year on the Intertaps and never had any luck.

 

[day_trippr]

That's gonna piss off at least one HBT member...

Cheers!

 

[augiedoggy]

Not me... I just purchased 9 more perlick style stainless taps with the intertap compatible spouts... best of both worlds for less... my 2 flow control intertaps do work well though.

 

[imasickboy]

That's good feedback @cuda6pak

Having never tried 1/8" lines myself, I wonder how much that contributed, (if at all), to your back-to-back pour issues.

There's a lot of variables among the setups of all of us trying these faucets, most importantly, differently carbonated beers. If we were all pouring bud light, or at the very least, pouring beers that were carbed over time to the same point of saturation, the opinions would be easier to rely upon. As it is, it's a "try them, see if they work for the way you do things" situation. Kudos to you for throwing so much effort into it, though.

 

[MaryB]

My intertaps work great, zero issues even after sitting a week. Back to back pours are great...

 

[Justintoxicated]

And now for what I hope to be my final follow up after about 3-4 kegs.

What seemed to be happening sporadically with the Intertap+1/8" ID set up was a venturi effect with back to back pours. For whatever reason, the design of the Intertaps give a much more aggressive flow and thus sort of a violent open/close on the fluid. This promotes foaming and back to back pours would exaggerate it quite a bit. I also noticed as the keg got low this would get even worse, which is somewhat typical, but was getting to the point it was worse than the Intertap + JG/Accuflex setup. I cleared out the lines several times to make sure there wasn't any particles obstructing and there was not.

So, I purchased 6 new Perlick 630SS non-FC taps and all new 18ft Accuflex Bev Seal Ultra lines along with my old JG fittings. This mimicked my original setup on my first keezer that poured so good.

I've been through 1 full keg and several pours from various other kegs at different fill levels and I have to say it is pouring absolutely beautifully. After a week in the keezer without a pull, the first pour will have a perfect 3/4" head. Back to back pours are so smooth that I have to lower the glass to get some head on the pour. The opening/closing of the faucet is WAY less violent and the pours come out right from the start absolutely smooth. This is all with highly carbed 3.0+vol beers and no other changes from either previous Intertap setup.

I have to say I bought into the Intertap hype and tried to get them to work. They FEEL much more rigid and more sturdy than the Perlicks, which due to the design push up against the o-ring and feel more squishy. But, for me, Perlick is the way to go without doubt. I realize everyone's setup is different but I chased my tail around for a year on the Intertaps and never had any luck.

This was my experience with the flow control intertaps vs flow control perlicks and standard perlicks too, I thought I was the only one experiencing it. The self closing option tempted me to pick up the non flow control versions. I hope it wasn't a mistake and they will work well on the jocky box. Actually I was going to order 650ss from ritebrew, but they went OOS, so I thought I'd try the regular intertaps this time around. Fingers Crossed!

My perlick 525SS seem to flow the smoothest out of the taps I have, but I like the flow control perlicks too if you don't mind pouring a bit slower. (I don't have any 630s).

For tubing I just use the cheap amazon vinyl (100ft for $20). I have tasted no plastic (which I have even tasted out of new regular beer line from the LHBS). As for the beer that sits in the lines, well it's usually flat anyways, so I just dump it. I'd love to try that fancy line you have though, just not willing to shell out for it.

 

[cuda6pak]

FWIW on my 6th tap I kept the same 1/8" ID lines in and only swapped the non-FC Intertap with the Perlick 630ss (soda water keg @ 28psi, 38deg). Just from switching the tap I could immediately notice MUCH more carbonation in the soda water. Small pour, large pour, back-to-back, waiting 1 week, etc pour doesn't matter. It holds much more carbonation in solution from the line to my glass.

A quick summary of my journey for anyone interested -

GE 5.0cu ft keezer, 1 regulator @ 12psi, ~40deg, fan on lid for recirculation, used for 3 years.

1) Perlick 525ss (3), Accuflex Bev Seal Ultra lines (~15ft) with John Guest fittings.

Extremely smooth pours, small/full/back-to-back no issues. Occasionally needing to lower glass to get proper head on back to back pours​

GE 7.0cu ft freezer, 6 regulators @ 12-18psi, 38deg, two fans on lid, used for 1 year.

1) Intertap G1 non-FC (6), Accuflex Bev Seal Ultra lines (~18ft) with John Guest fittings.

Full pint pours quite foamy, about half the glass. A lot of carbonation out of solution in the lines themselves. Fast pour. Direct back-to-back pours were OK, but after left in the lines for a few minutes would pour the same. Very aggressive initial flow and stop of the liquid.​

2) Intertap G2 FC, same lines as above.

Basically the same as above, maybe slightly better when turned completely down, but still not great.​

3) Intertap G1 non-FC, 1/8" ID EJ Flexelene Silver microbial FXAG tubing, associated 1/8" ID SS tailpiece.

Initial pours were good. All beers took about a week to "acclimate" to the lines, as initial pours had zero lacing. As the keg got down closer to empty noticed more foaming. Direct back-to-back pours were OK, but seemingly after a few minutes to up to an hour later of a pour would be very foamy. If beer sat in the line for more than a few hours/days, it would pour OK on the first one. This was very inconsistent from tap to tap, cleared lines and checked for debris with no issues.​

4) Perlick 630ss (6), Accuflex Bev Seal Ultra lines (18ft), same JG fittings as above.

Perfect pours, small pour, large, back-to-back, 1hour wait, days/weeks/etc zero issues on pour. Much more carbonation held in solution from line to glass. No initial foam out of faucet regardless of keg fill. Direct back-to-back pours will need to lower glass in order to build head it pours so good.​

 

[cuda6pak]

This was my experience with the flow control intertaps vs flow control perlicks and standard perlicks too, I thought I was the only one experiencing it. The self closing option tempted me to pick up the non flow control versions. I hope it wasn't a mistake and they will work well on the jocky box. Actually I was going to order 650ss from ritebrew, but they went OOS, so I thought I'd try the regular intertaps this time around. Fingers Crossed!

My perlick 525SS seem to flow the smoothest out of the taps I have, but I like the flow control perlicks too if you don't mind pouring a bit slower. (I don't have any 630s).

For tubing I just use the cheap amazon vinyl (100ft for $20). I have tasted no plastic (which I have even tasted out of new regular beer line from the LHBS). As for the beer that sits in the lines, well it's usually flat anyways, so I just dump it. I'd love to try that fancy line you have though, just not willing to shell out for it.

I think I'd be willing to spend a few bucks more not to have to worry about plastic taste or dumping any beer from the line due to being flat.

 

[Justintoxicated]

I think I'd be willing to spend a few bucks more not to have to worry about plastic taste or dumping any beer from the line due to being flat.

Beer will go flat in any line afaik. It goes way beyond a couple bucks more.

$159 for 100 feet of Ultra Barrier from more beer, vs $11.68 for 100 feet of vinyl from amazon (I get no bad taste from)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Plus you change lines at least once or twice a year right, or at least when serving sours or brett beers or coffee or water?

Your setup is certainly way cooler! I just find it hard to justify the cost for me. I will report back when I test my new intertaps. (I'll test both a 525 and an intertap) but it might be a while.

 

[cuda6pak]

Beer will go flat in any line afaik. It goes way beyond a couple bucks more.

$159 for 100 feet of Ultra Barrier from more beer, vs $11.68 for 100 feet of vinyl from amazon (I get no bad taste from)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Plus you change lines at least once or twice a year right, or at least when serving sours or brett beers or coffee or water?

Your setup is certainly way cooler! I just find it hard to justify the cost for me. I will report back when I test my new intertaps. (I'll test both a 525 and an intertap) but it might be a while.

Beer absolutely should not go flat in the line.

100ft of the line is $59 shipped from Birdman
http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-barrier-tubing-3-16-id-100ft-free-shipping/

The beauty of the line is not needing to replace all the time and flushability of harsh flavors from one beer to the next. I replace the line once every 1-1.5yrs.

 

[IslandLizard]

Beer absolutely should not go flat in the line.

100ft of the line is $59 shipped from Birdman
http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-barrier-tubing-3-16-id-100ft-free-shipping/

The beauty of the line is not needing to replace all the time and flushability of harsh flavors from one beer to the next. I replace the line once every 1-1.5yrs.

At $159 MoreBeer is surely reaming it.

But you can do even better than $59 shipped from Birdman: Ritebrew!
Plus you can order as many feet as you want. Good deals on the John Guest adapters too, which you really need, to be able to work with this line. Their shipping is very reasonable too, and fast.

 

[augiedoggy]

Funny I should see this today I just picked up 33ft of 3/16 bevlex or what ever it is from my LHBS for 69cents a foot yesterday...
11ft of it for each of my taps 2 ft above the kegs and it does pour with less foam than with 5ft like the beersmith calculator told me to go with...