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Intertap beer faucets

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Justintoxicated, what is your psi? You have 3/16 ID lines?
12psi
yes 3/16th"
I have tried both 12 and 13 foot lines so far, I might try a 20 but then I'll be dumping nearly the first 4 oz every time I grab a beer. I was hoping to reduce line length with flow controls and maybe get some better tubing.

I'm going to go pull the tap off and take apart he flow control to check for that O-ring, thanks for the link and idea skatz!
 
So I took one of the taps apart, lots of metal shavings along the bonnet washer, and inside the flow control. I did have the #13 o-ring. I have noticed while installing and uninstalling these taps that you have to hold the tap or else it will rotate on the shank, The splines are not cut correctly and there is enough play in them to let the tap slip while tensioning.

I cleaned everything up on the one and lubed all the o-rings but I was still getting crazy foam. However this time I pulled the line up and noticed theres air/gas in the line as well, so now I'm thinking the problem is something else. I replaced the o-ring on the keg post but no dice. Perhaps the beer is frozen in the keg? It could be since I had the lid up such a long time yesterday while working on the keezer. I have had this happen once or twice before, and I believe the result is sucking up air in the line and excessive foam.

My other taps are currently a cider and blackberry sage mead, so they would not be great candidates for testing. I think I'll pull the keg and check it for ice, and postpone further testing.

Pic of some of the shavings:
2016-09-11_07-30-07 by glamisduner, on Flickr

Should I be worried about these splines being done so poorly?
2016-09-11_07-30-58 by glamisduner, on Flickr

Perlick is on the left for comparison.

Everything is screaming lack of quality to me. From the metal shavings, to the ruff threads, to the improperly cut splines.

That's crazy. If I turn the flow control to all the way to the up (or down) flow stops entirely. That's for all 4 of my intertaps.

Something's amiss. You're missing parts probably...

Gotta love China!

both of mine still have a slow trickle of beer which closed off as much as possible.
 
Sounds like you got a bad batch. Williams has great customer service - give them a call in the morning.
 
Checked the keg for ice and didn't find anything inside it that was icy. I did find my faucet leaking at the connection to the shank.

So now my faucet will not attach to the shank without leaking, I tried 3 times and it seems to leak no matter what... I had to disconnect it. I think I'm going to see if I can return everything. I have a feeling the faucet damaged the splines on my shank too when it rotated due to the crappy splines on the faucet.

I'm so tired of dealing with these I would't recommend them to anyone at this point...

Going to contact Williams brewing tomorrow, and I already contacted keg king, hopefully williams brewing can help. Maybe I'll buy a dedicated stout faucet and some perlick 630's, order some new shanks and call everything done.

Anyone have an intertap handy that can double check for me if the splines are supposed to be this shallow by design?

I really think something is up with my beer that is causing the foam, but i'm still not happy that my intertap stripped/rounded out my new shank's splines because the splines on the intertap are not deep enough. They seem like a great design with shoddy execution. If this is normal I'm going to go back to perlick, but if mine are just defective I think I'll try to have them replaced first.
 
I have 6ft lines with fc without pouring issues on properly carbed beer.

I think what happened is I over carbed my beer (Keg was getting frozen so the lower temp helped witht hat), and when I lowered the serving pressure to 12 PSI I think the CO2 started coming out of the beer solution. Usually this does not happen but I don't know what else could cause it. I ended up putting the keg back on the perlick for now so I will pour a taster when I get home tonight. Although at this point it's not a great test...

I still want to return my intertaps because the splines are so loose on the shank. How are the splines on yours? Do they look the same as my picture?
 
I have 9 12 and 15 foot lines on my setup
2 lines per regulator
And they are all currently set to 9 and pour great but they pour perfectly on my two intertaps
I will be getting four more
 
Justintoxitated... I'm 'glad' it's not just me... I have 3 flow control Intertaps and while they work okay with regular carbed beers (i.e. 1.5-2.5 vols), mine are awful with anything above that. All I get is foam... I've tried all sorts of things and I'm pretty much convinced now that it's the faucets. I'll know for sure when I replace one of them with a Perlick FC on my one tap that's carbed at 3 vols. I'll report back at the weekend.
 
I think what happened is I over carbed my beer (Keg was getting frozen so the lower temp helped witht hat), and when I lowered the serving pressure to 12 PSI I think the CO2 started coming out of the beer solution. Usually this does not happen but I don't know what else could cause it. I ended up putting the keg back on the perlick for now so I will pour a taster when I get home tonight. Although at this point it's not a great test...

I still want to return my intertaps because the splines are so loose on the shank. How are the splines on yours? Do they look the same as my picture?

I'll check next time I take them apart to clean the lines.
 
I returned everything to Williams Brewing and hope to hear back from them soon, hopefully it's just a bad batch, or maybe I should stick with the non flow controls. My beer still seems foamy out of the perlick but not as bad, but I'm convinced that part of the problem (at least as far as foam) was the beer (something must have happened while working on the keezer). I'm worried about the splines being bad if I get another set of intertap flow control or even the standard faucets. But if I start buying new perlicks, I'll end up wanting to replace all my 525s so they will match lol. Completely different faucets is ok, but 90% the same will bug me even more hah. I guess perlick 650's might work for me although I worry about the sulfur thing, and I would need to buy a dedicated stout faucet as well (which wouldn't be so bad I guess)

Looks like tapright makes a decent all stainless stout faucet.
 
I'll prolly be selling my stout faucet soon
Seeing that I don't like stouts and I have the intertaps if I develop a taste for them
 
I returned everything to Williams Brewing and hope to hear back from them soon, hopefully it's just a bad batch, or maybe I should stick with the non flow controls. My beer still seems foamy out of the perlick but not as bad, but I'm convinced that part of the problem (at least as far as foam) was the beer (something must have happened while working on the keezer). I'm worried about the splines being bad if I get another set of intertap flow control or even the standard faucets. But if I start buying new perlicks, I'll end up wanting to replace all my 525s so they will match lol. Completely different faucets is ok, but 90% the same will bug me even more hah. I guess perlick 650's might work for me although I worry about the sulfur thing, and I would need to buy a dedicated stout faucet as well (which wouldn't be so bad I guess)

Looks like tapright makes a decent all stainless stout faucet.

How many more 525s do you need? I have two and one flow of that series that I have replaced with intertap faucets. Just sitting in a drawer.
 
How many more 525s do you need? I have two and one flow of that series that I have replaced with intertap faucets. Just sitting in a drawer.

Just need one really to have all matching. How much do ya want it's stainless right? Am I crazy for getting another 525ss?

Williams said there was nothing wrong with my intertaps, and the splines are the same on all of the ones they have. They also said once screwed in the tap will not rotate on the shank, but I know for a fact it could because I tested it right before I put it in the box, heck even the splines were rounded on one of the shanks from when I installed it and it rotated. They did admit they had some play on the shanks though. So there is that. I doubt they tested for leaks, and I couldn't find anything wrong when examining the one tap either, but it sure did leak even when screwed down all the way... Their support was good though, I'm getting a full refund. I'm still torn on trying them again, but I'm not happy about the splines or metal shavings. Perlick quality just seems superior for me, but I wish they had the intertap modularity and design.

Not sure what to do now, I think I might just have to stick with perlicks because my experiences with intertaps is that they are made pretty poorly and apparently they all have loose cast splines (which for most people I guess, is not that big pf a deal, heck the 400 series perlicks has cast splines too, but and maybe the new ones but at least the new ones look machined).. I really want a good set of intertaps though, the design is better, but the implementation of that design was just isn't carried out to the level I wish it was :(

Maybe I should order a couple perlick 650ss's? I liked the idea of slowing the flow for growler fills still, I'd just have to buy a separate stout faucet, but that might be a good idea anyways...

Maybe I'm just too picky, it's just a faucet right? I guess I take beer too seriously.

I'll prolly be selling my stout faucet soon
Seeing that I don't like stouts and I have the intertaps if I develop a taste for them

Which faucet is it that you want to sell?
 
I replaced my FC Intertaps with my old non-FC Perlicks last night and didn't really see much difference with the foaming on my big Tripel... There's air or CO2 getting in the line somewhere and I really need to figure out where but at least I know it's not the taps. That being said, I will likely put up my FC intertaps for sale as I like the Perlicks better and haven't found a use yet for the nozzle attachments (growler filler is too big and I don't have a nitro tank anymore to make use of the stout nozzle).
 
I replaced my FC Intertaps with my old non-FC Perlicks last night and didn't really see much difference with the foaming on my big Tripel... There's air or CO2 getting in the line somewhere and I really need to figure out where but at least I know it's not the taps. That being said, I will likely put up my FC intertaps for sale as I like the Perlicks better and haven't found a use yet for the nozzle attachments (growler filler is too big and I don't have a nitro tank anymore to make use of the stout nozzle).

Yea the one thing I thought was great about the intertap flow control and stout nozzel combo. Going back to pearls, I'll have to change both the line to something like 22ft and the faucet. where as with the intertap, in theory, all I would need to do is screw on the stout nozzel.

Makes me think maybe I should just order one again and deal with the splines being loose, but for the rest go with perlicks? I dunno...I seem to be the only person having problems with getting a smooth flow and noticing the loose splines...
 
My taps (all of them) will rotate a bit on the shank if I don't have the nut on the inside of the tower cranked down really quite hard... is that maybe your issue? I know it's a stupid question, but sometimes the obvious never gets asked?
 
I agree with jmark
I monster tightened them from the start

I agree too, but after the splines get rounded it won't matter, the splines are just not cut very well, but tightening the sh** out of them helps. I just don't think you should have to hold the tap while tightening to prevent slip and I shouldn't have to over-tighten either.

I mean I would really have to crank them down hard to the point where having no splines wouldn't even matter. Maybe if I put an extension on my collar wrench it would be easier, but then once the threads bottom the whole shank assembly thing just rotates anyways if you turn hard enough, unless you also monster tighten the nut. I know from messing with my intertaps lol.

Thing is my 525ss's don't have this problem, I just slip them on the shank and snug up the collar and done!
 
Not sure we're talking about the same things... I'm talking about the nut INSIDE the tower, not the bit on the outside that you screw the faucet into. If I don't have that really tight, the whole shank assembly including the tap rotates.
 
Not sure we're talking about the same things... I'm talking about the nut INSIDE the tower, not the bit on the outside that you screw the faucet into. If I don't have that really tight, the whole shank assembly including the tap rotates.

Your right, I was talking about my faucets rotating on the sank itself due to the loose splines rounding out when it slipped while I was tightening it. after comparing it to my perlick I could see the splines were not machined, and were too short. Now one of my intertaps would only slip a bit before fully tightened but the other one turned and after installing it and uninstalling it a few times the threads on my shank were screwed up due to the slippage. I was also no longer able to get a good seal on that faucet for some reason and it leaked where the rear rubber washer is supposed to seal. Could be something happened due to the other issues I guess.


I posted a picture of the spline difference on the previous page. Now technically I guess the splines are not all that important, and the keg to faucet adapters don't even have splines on them, but still it's the quality overall and the splines were just one example. I still feel like the intertaps are just chromed instead of polished stainless. Like they chrome the stainless because it cheaper than machining and polishing. But the threads, splines, interior etc did not have the finish of a perlic. The ruff cast potion of the intertap in by the bend looked like unfinished stainless though.

Anyways, just ordered a couple some 650SS to try out. They have their own issues I guess, and the whole flow control (so I don't have to change my lines, and tap for a stout on beer gas) is out the window now. Thank goodness for 12cent a foot line on amazon and dedicated stout taps. :)
 
My shanks are different
Special for my tower
They screw into the tower itself and there's a rubber oring on the end of them to seal where it meets the back of the sleeve in the tower
So I always have to hold the faucet while tightening or loosening it from shank so the shank doesn't over tighten or loosen
 
My shanks are different
Special for my tower
They screw into the tower itself and there's a rubber oring on the end of them to seal where it meets the back of the sleeve in the tower
So I always have to hold the faucet while tightening or loosening it from shank so the shank doesn't over tighten or loosen

I know what you mean, splines are not important to you then :)
 
Ebay
It's a perlick gambrinus
I got for under 70 shipped
New it's an ungodly amount
 
Well I just read this whole thread and found it very interesting and sad. I might have 4 of the last batch of Ventmatics. After I talked to them we had a deal for 4 faucets and they were going to throw in a couple of different nozzles for home brew. Well I got the faucets but was missing all the "free" stuff they promised. I tried to contact them and they were sorry and would get right on it. A month later and there was no more e-mail reply's and the website was down.

I too had bought a single CHI Ventmatic a while back and it too leaked at the top seal. I waited like everybody else for "the cure" but it never happened. I don't blame CHI for this at all. I'm sure they had no idea they were getting a cheap copy of a well known product. After finding the supposed "real" Ventmatics and receiving them I took both apart and found the machining on the CHI version to be a joke! It was rough inside like I've seen in some of the photo's of the Australian faucets. I admit I really like the so called "real" Ventmatics. I've worked as a machinist for over 34 years in the brewing industry and the machining on these is beautiful compared to even the Perlick's.

I believe the Perlicks are assembled here but the castings come from China. So Chinese quality is probably the reason for some of the failures. The Perlicks are pretty and mine worked ok but the large cavity inside allows the CO2 to come out of solution before it reaches the spout which might cause some excess foaming but not enough to warrant major issues.

So I guess I'm just sad that another American company has gone down the tubes. I realize that Ventmatic seems to have a lot of issues both legally and business wise and I certainly don't know all the details, it's just sad, that's all.
 
I have to agree with you, tootal. After reading various posts and doing some research on Vent-Matic, I came to much the same conclusion you have. It's a shame that an American company with such a quality product, has such crappy support. Obviously, their management/leadership is crappy too. Why would they keep shooting themselves in the foot, while repeatedly disappointing their customers? They could easily contract out the manufacturing to a reputable company, and properly manage all the rest. I guess that sounds too much like a recipe for success.
 
Well I just read this whole thread and found it very interesting and sad. I might have 4 of the last batch of Ventmatics. After I talked to them we had a deal for 4 faucets and they were going to throw in a couple of different nozzles for home brew. Well I got the faucets but was missing all the "free" stuff they promised. I tried to contact them and they were sorry and would get right on it. A month later and there was no more e-mail reply's and the website was down.

I too had bought a single CHI Ventmatic a while back and it too leaked at the top seal. I waited like everybody else for "the cure" but it never happened. I don't blame CHI for this at all. I'm sure they had no idea they were getting a cheap copy of a well known product. After finding the supposed "real" Ventmatics and receiving them I took both apart and found the machining on the CHI version to be a joke! It was rough inside like I've seen in some of the photo's of the Australian faucets. I admit I really like the so called "real" Ventmatics. I've worked as a machinist for over 34 years in the brewing industry and the machining on these is beautiful compared to even the Perlick's.

I believe the Perlicks are assembled here but the castings come from China. So Chinese quality is probably the reason for some of the failures. The Perlicks are pretty and mine worked ok but the large cavity inside allows the CO2 to come out of solution before it reaches the spout which might cause some excess foaming but not enough to warrant major issues.

So I guess I'm just sad that another American company has gone down the tubes. I realize that Ventmatic seems to have a lot of issues both legally and business wise and I certainly don't know all the details, it's just sad, that's all.
funny you should say that about the perlicks being made in china... I ordered both a real perlick off ebay and a chinese "perlick" off aliexpress and besides the cheaper chinese one being made of stainless instead of chromed brass like the more expensive one they were identical to one another right down to the same ribbing on the shank collar and top nut...

I think im going with the flow control intertaps myslf for my main taps anyway but if I were to go with the perlick ones I would go direct to china and get the full stainless setup with shank for $30 shipped...
manufacturing just doesnt make any sense to do in the US with the politics and current trade setup.. the guys that would be making them here would be making more in an hour than the chinese counterpart makes in a week for one thing... and when you factor in there is at least a 100% markup for retail ...well. look at what it really cost for the company who makes "levis" in egypt or nikes in china to make the products. (I read the avg nikes are less than $6 a pair to make) do you really think Americas businessmen and wealthy stockholders are gonna give that up? HA!
 
funny you should say that about the perlicks being made in china... I ordered both a real perlick off ebay and a chinese "perlick" off aliexpress and besides the cheaper chinese one being made of stainless instead of chromed brass like the more expensive one they were identical to one another right down to the same ribbing on the shank collar and top nut...

I think im going with the flow control intertaps myslf for my main taps anyway but if I were to go with the perlick ones I would go direct to china and get the full stainless setup with shank for $30 shipped...
manufacturing just doesnt make any sense to do in the US with the politics and current trade setup.. the guys that would be making them here would be making more in an hour than the chinese counterpart makes in a week for one thing... and when you factor in there is at least a 100% markup for retail ...well. look at what it really cost for the company who makes "levis" in egypt or nikes in china to make the products. (I read the avg nikes are less than $6 a pair to make) do you really think Americas businessmen and wealthy stockholders are gonna give that up? HA!

Perlicks may be made in china but the production and quality on the intertaps is far worse. (I think mine were made in Taiwan ? but I can't remember)

intertap, left perlick525ss right by glamisduner, on Flickr
perlick on the right.

intertap by glamisduner, on Flickr
Rough casting on the interior and rough threads on the intertap.

2016-09-11_07-30-58 by glamisduner, on Flickr
Splines are not machined on the intertap (right). This allowed them to spin on the shanks while I tightened them (had to hold the faucet to keep the splines from slipping while tightening)


I almost think the stainless intertaps are chrome dipped instead of polished, The threads almost appear to have a poor plating job on them and the inside was rough compared to the perlick. I had to remove all the (shavings) from the ruffly machined threads after breaking them down. If you do get intertaps, be sure to take them fully apart to remove the left over metal shavings before using them.

The perlick flow controls I picked up to replace the intertaps, reek of sulfer after soaking in starsan. They have their own issues! Going to try the Passivization Cook on them and sounds like it will solve my problems (Still ridiculous but hopefully fixable). No stout option though, other than a dedicated faucet (Hey I guess I'll just go with that).
 
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