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Im still working my way through the whole thread, (on page 51 so far), but does anyone have a pictorial or a video of a whole brewday or batch?

I have read the pdf. visited the site, and read multiple posts about the process, but i guess I'm a visual learner when it comes to thjs process.

Not sure this is what you're looking for, but here's a video of a low DO brew day. Doesn't necessarily go into all the details if what's going on, but if you've read up on the process, you'll be able to follow along.

http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/brewing-methods/a-low-oxygen-brewday/

Also, have you read this?

http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/low-oxygen-methods/
 
Copper is often used a catalyst in silicone manufacture and that would worry me.

Not always copper. I would expect to see Platinum, palladium, rhodium, or tin used in the catalyst. Keep in mind also that the metal in there is going to be a fraction of a percent. I'd be more worried about any brass in the process.
 
So what kind of hoses do you use?
I know little about the material, but I would assume that very few materials that leech metal content will clear FDA.
Edit: looking at some white papers, it appears copper's solubility in silicon requires extremely high temperatures. Could one not assume that similar high temp might be required in order for it to leech?
Excuse me if I'm being ignorant here but of all the material phobias I've heard of in homebrewing, silicon is not one of them.

To be clear I wasn't thinking about it from a standpoint of toxicity but instead of metal catalyzed fenton reactions. This is after all the low oxygen brewing thread. And yes, good point about the silicon hoses.
 
Lest we not forget the oxygen permeability of silicon as well. [emoji12]
 
In addition to going closed cell, it's probably important to work out a way of smoothing the cut edges, or you might end up with some extremely yucky cut cells on the edges that are hard to clean out.

I guess in an extreme case, they might harbor bacteria that sours the wort during the mash.

There shouldn't be a worry here. The malt carries a huge load of souring bacteria and having a nook in the mash tun isn't going to make a difference.
 
There shouldn't be a worry here. The malt carries a huge load of souring bacteria and having a nook in the mash tun isn't going to make a difference.

I guess the extreme case I was vaguely worried about would be wet active bacteria in the opened foam cells, vs. dry dormant bacteria on the grain. Probably you're right, and the load on the grain would outweigh that anyway. And if you aren't cleaning the foam, you probably aren't doing LoDO anyway.
 
I, interestingly enough, kegged 10g of black dipa about 10 days ago that finished higher than I wanted. My starter was somewhat undersized due to shipping delays. I added a pack of CBC with 4oz of hop hash and some amylase to see if it would drop any more. Racked to kegs 5 days later. It has a very clean fermentation profile with no noticable off flavors. At least none I can perceive behind the wall of hops.

This was before I had read any of the recent posts here. My thought was that cbc was alcohol tolerant.
 
I, interestingly enough, kegged 10g of black dipa about 10 days ago that finished higher than I wanted. My starter was somewhat undersized due to shipping delays. I added a pack of CBC with 4oz of hop hash and some amylase to see if it would drop any more. Racked to kegs 5 days later. It has a very clean fermentation profile with no noticable off flavors. At least none I can perceive behind the wall of hops.

This was before I had read any of the recent posts here. My thought was that cbc was alcohol tolerant.


Sorry, I am not following?
 
LOL
Yep, sorry
Good call
Was in the rain when I posted. Must have caused a ghost touch or something
 
I thought i saw a chart somewhers, but lost it.

Can you guys give me a starting range of potassium metabisulphite for strike water in mg/l?

My lhbs doesnt carry the NaMeta, only K.
 
I thought i saw a chart somewhers, but lost it.

Can you guys give me a starting range of potassium metabisulphite for strike water in mg/l?

My lhbs doesnt carry the NaMeta, only K.

Does your lhbs have a wine section? That's where I found my NaMeta
 
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At the rates we recommend K will be more than fine.

Cold side question: What levels of DO did you guys measure when you allowed the wort to ferment out, add a sugar solution (boiled water + corn sugar) back to fermenter, let fermentation re-start, then transfer to a purged keg for spunding?

Just asking, because the FFT doesn't seem to be my thing.
 
Cold side question: What levels of DO did you guys measure when you allowed the wort to ferment out, add a sugar solution (boiled water + corn sugar) back to fermenter, let fermentation re-start, then transfer to a purged keg for spunding?

Good question. I never measured but probably should have.
 
Cold side question: What levels of DO did you guys measure when you allowed the wort to ferment out, add a sugar solution (boiled water + corn sugar) back to fermenter, let fermentation re-start, then transfer to a purged keg for spunding?

Just asking, because the FFT doesn't seem to be my thing.

I would imagine the difference between the two methods, assuming you boiled the water completely, would be minimal. The biggest potential issue being tightening up your transfer and filling methods. Purged kegs and hoses, sending gas out of keg back into the fermentor as a closed loop or pushing with co2, etc. Just my .02
 
Cold side question: What levels of DO did you guys measure when you allowed the wort to ferment out, add a sugar solution (boiled water + corn sugar) back to fermenter, let fermentation re-start, then transfer to a purged keg for spunding?

Just asking, because the FFT doesn't seem to be my thing.


I've done this with all my ales and the results speak very favorably. Usually works well with my schedule too as i like to brew and keg on weekends if possible. Ales are usually DDFD for me in no more than 6 days.

Recent examples:

1. An IPA that was still 95% awesome at over 5 months. I cracked the lid open at 1.020 and dry hopped for a few days while it went to FG. I injected the priming solution via the PRV under positive pressure about an hour before racking to the serving keg. Transfer was done closed loop.

2. An oatmeal stout that was still 100% fresh at almost 9 months.


The key steps here are to keep the beer in primary no longer than it takes to reach FG, add the priming sugar before racking with positive co2 pressure, wait to see activity, rack under closed loop.
 
I injected the priming solution via the PRV under positive pressure about an hour before racking to the serving keg.

Could you elaborate on your method? So you have a pressurized container of priming solution that you are somehow attaching to the pressure release valve on the keg lid, and transferring without opening it to atmosphere?
 
Could you elaborate on your method? So you have a pressurized container of priming solution that you are somehow attaching to the pressure release valve on the keg lid, and transferring without opening it to atmosphere?


Not mine originally... I just know a good one when I see it...

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1503890066.666613.jpg

Make priming solution, rapidly chill, connect a few lb co2 to FV, draw up dose of liquid, unscrew PRV, inject, screw PRV back in.
 
Not mine originally... I just know a good one when I see it...

View attachment 412114

Make priming solution, rapidly chill, connect a few lb co2 to FV, draw up dose of liquid, unscrew PRV, inject, screw PRV back in.

Where'd you get a syringe like that. Would make a great gelatin solution injector as well.

Brew on :mug:
 
Amazon. Got a 3 pack shipped for like $10.

Can't use it to inject gelatin. This is a low ox thread :)
 
Nothing to do with RHG.

More to do with potential for introducing O2.

May be possible. I don't use the stuff.
 
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