Inline GFCI cord

[CyberFox]

I'm thinking of brewing with a 3500W induction cooker. I'm not too savvy with anything electrical, but I know that I need a 240V GFCI rated outlet, which I don't have. Would this inline portable GFCI cord work?


Thanks in advance

 

[hotbeer]

Do you already have a 240 Volt outlet with a NEMA 6 - 20R receptacle? If so, you really don't need the GFCI. If the outlet was installed by a electrician, they probably put it on a GFCI breaker or the outlet is not where GFCI is required. Assuming you are in the USA. If you are in another country, then your building codes apply.

 

[CyberFox]

Do you already have a 240 Volt outlet with a NEMA 6 - 20R receptacle? If so, you really don't need the GFCI. If the outlet was installed by a electrician, they probably put it on a GFCI breaker or the outlet is not where GFCI is required. Assuming you are in the USA. If you are in another country, then your building codes apply.

I don't have 240V outlets yet, but I am going to have a few installed in my garage by an electrician. Since I'm starting from scratch, what would you (or anyone willing to chime in) recommend for me to have installed?

 

[hotbeer]

If you have a electrician coming to put in your outlet and wire it to the breaker box, then consult with him about what the codes say and what the local authorities want there in that area. If I was looking for a house and saw some additions such as that, I might use being out of code to reduce the price of my offer.

Make sure the electrician knows what the outlets and circuits will be used for. Print off or email the .pdf with the electrical specs to the electrician so they can be aware of what it is before you have that conversation. Realize that if you were planning on using the existing wiring, then it's possible that it might not be what it should be. Although many areas require garages to be on 20 amp circuits. Very old homes or places where code enforcement is lax may not be but 14 gauge wire.

Ask if it's felt that a GFCI is required for the location you are putting the induction burner. Breakers for the breaker box can be GFCI as well as arc fault protecting. I'm not certain if I've ever seen a GFCI or arc fault outlet for 240 volts. But they probably exist. I've just not looked for them. And I think GFCI is only required when there is a danger of the appliance falling in water. Not you falling into the water on top of the appliance.

I've had extension cords get quite hot even though they are rated for the load being pulled through them. So go for more amperage rating on the extension cord if you have to use one. If you can't find one then at least use one that is as short as practicable.

 

[MaxStout]

You mentioned having a few 240v outlets installed. Will they be on the same branch circuit, or will each have its own breaker?

@hotbeer gave sound advice. Best to pick the electrician's brain. Inform them of what you plan to run on the circuit. A 3500W cooker will draw close to 15A at 240v. If you plan to run other devices simultaneously on one circuit, you need to add those wattages, as well. The electrician will design with an 80% load factor for safety. For example, a 20A 240v circuit will safely handle a 3840W load. (20 x 240 x 0.8) They do make 240v GFCI breakers.

 

[CyberFox]

Really good info! I'll definitely make sure the electrician knows exactly what I'm planning to use the outlets for. I'm actually having a house built, so it truly is from scratch. I didn't even know about GFCI breakers. I figured that each outlet had to be GFCI rated. Told you that I didn't know much about electricity. Like I said, I'll let the electrician know what I'm doing. Let's just hope they know what they are doing.

 

[mattd2]

Ask if it's felt that a GFCI is required for the location you are putting the induction burner. Breakers for the breaker box can be GFCI as well as arc fault protecting. I'm not certain if I've ever seen a GFCI or arc fault outlet for 240 volts. But they probably exist. I've just not looked for them. And I think GFCI is only required when there is a danger of the appliance falling in water. Not you falling into the water on top of the appliance.

Where I am from GFCI only used to be required in "wet areas", e.g. bathrooms (although now are required for any new sub circuits). This was due to the increase likelyhood of water being present, which is one on the main reasons a GFCI is recommended by most on here when electric brewing. While it may not be needed for code compliance as the area the sub-circuit feeds in not normally "wet" brewing in that area changes those assumptions made in the code.

You are in the perfect position right now - talk with the electrician, and I would recommend spending the little bit extra for GFCI on at least the brewing sub-circuit for peace of mind..

 

[mashdar]

Do you already have a 240 Volt outlet with a NEMA 6 - 20R receptacle? If so, you really don't need the GFCI. If the outlet was installed by a electrician, they probably put it on a GFCI breaker or the outlet is not where GFCI is required. Assuming you are in the USA. If you are in another country, then your building codes apply.

Anywhere with an electric brew kettle is by definition a location needing GFCI protection. An existing 240V receptacle could have been for some dry application. (edit: to elaborate, NEC says appliances shall be used in accordance with manufacturer instructions, and every manufacturer I'm aware of says provide GFCI. If you're wiring your own, it's unlisted and a whole other can of worms re insurance etc, but the applicable listing standards if you're "doing it right" likely require GFCI.)

CyberFox, Southwire and Grainger are both reputable. 20A @ 240 should be OK for up to ~3.8kW. Most setups come with 30A plugs (6-30P), though, so if you're buying a prewired system you should check. Also note that the upstream receptacle will not be protected.

edit: Just realized this is a single burner induction unit. Definitely check the plug. If it's 6-20P then your link is good. If it's locking (L6-20), has a neutral (14-20), or higher amps (6-30) you may need an adapter or different GFCI source.

FWIW people find the spa panels an economical if hacky GFCI option.

 

[MaxStout]

Really good info! I'll definitely make sure the electrician knows exactly what I'm planning to use the outlets for. I'm actually having a house built, so it truly is from scratch. I didn't even know about GFCI breakers. I figured that each outlet had to be GFCI rated. Told you that I didn't know much about electricity. Like I said, I'll let the electrician know what I'm doing. Let's just hope they know what they are doing.

GFCI is only needed at one point, upstream from the other outlets on that circuit. That provides a single point of protection for all the outlets (and their loads) downstream.

If you are building a new house, consider spending a little more and having all 120v circuits being wired for 20 amps, instead of 15. That requires thicker copper--12 gauge wire instead of 14 gauge. Some circuits already require 20A (bathrooms are one--for hairdryers). Having the whole house wired for 20A will mean less worry about overcurrent situations when you have multiple devices running. A small investment for a little future-proofing.

We had our house built new, in the 1990s. In hindsight, I wished I had opted for 20A 120v wiring.

 

[whoaru99]

Changes in NEC over the last few years have been such that for practical purposes every 120 - 240V (125 -250V in NEC parlance) circuit 50A or less requires GFCI. The exceptions these days are so few between might just as well figure it applies to all.

 

[mac_1103]

Changes in NEC over the last few years have been such that for practical purposes every circuit 50A or less requires GFCI.

And AFCI isn't far behind.

 

[CyberFox]

GFCI is only needed at one point, upstream from the other outlets on that circuit. That provides a single point of protection for all the outlets (and their loads) downstream.

If you are building a new house, consider spending a little more and having all 120v circuits being wired for 20 amps, instead of 15. That requires thicker copper--12 gauge wire instead of 14 gauge. Some circuits already require 20A (bathrooms are one--for hairdryers). Having the whole house wired for 20A will mean less worry about overcurrent situations when you have multiple devices running. A small investment for a little future-proofing.

We had our house built new, in the 1990s. In hindsight, I wished I had opted for 20A 120v wiring.

Awesome idea. I'll definitely look into getting the 120V circuits wired for 20 amps. Really good info from everyone. Thanks!

 

[whoaru99]

...
If you are building a new house, consider spending a little more and having all 120v circuits being wired for 20 amps, instead of 15. That requires thicker copper--12 gauge wire instead of 14 gauge. Some circuits already require 20A (bathrooms are one--for hairdryers). Having the whole house wired for 20A will mean less worry about overcurrent situations when you have multiple devices running. A small investment for a little future-proofing.

We had our house built new, in the 1990s. In hindsight, I wished I had opted for 20A 120v wiring.

Wired a 3.5 car garage not long ago.

All the ceiling lights and outdoor lights are on separate/dedicated circuits. We used 14ga for that.

The general use 120V receptacle circuits are all 12ga.

 

[whoaru99]

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