"THE ELECTRIC BREWERY" Style 50 Amp Brewery Controller. Condition is "Used".
16" x 16" x 8"
36 lbs
Shipping within the lower 48 included.
Unusual item. This is a home built Electric Brewery style panel, with some upgrades from the original plans on the site.
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/control-panels
As you can see, the KIT for one of these is $1600. Mine is fully assembled, and powder coated a beautiful sparkling "beer" orange. I probably put $2500 into this thing!
I never put a decal or name plate on it, so that's up to you!
Includes the 10' power cable, a 10' element cable, thermocouple cables, and two RTDs. You will need to supply any other needed hardware.
The thermocouple cables have all been tested and are working with each of the three PIDs (boil, mash, HLT).
Here is a link to the RTD sensors the cables are designed to connect to if you want to buy one more: Liquid tight RTD sensor, 1.5 in, 1/2 NPT Thread [PT100-L401/2NPT] - $28.99 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry
The two main power outlets are controlled by PID via 40A SSRs, and a three way switch. It's not set up to run both at once. There are two other power switches (not PID controlled) at the bottom. One is "induction", which I set up to run two induction burners. The other is "HLT boost", to control an additional 5500W element in my HLT to boost time to brew temperature. With both the HLT element and boost element going, you will heat 15 gallons of water to 168°F in 15 minutes.
You could always change these two auxiliary outlets to power pumps, which is how the original EB box is set up.
There are some 'mistakes' to be aware of: the power label was printed backward (on is off and vice versa), one of the thermocoouple cable XLRs doesn't match the others (two are male, and thus need F/F adapters to work, one is female and doesn't need an adapter). I never used the alarm switches or timer (expensive decorations). I'm sure they work, but I haven't tested them.
Finally- do not buy or build one of these unless you are comfortable tinkering with electrical apparatus. It's dangerous to play around with a 50 Amp power box if you don't know what you're doing. I had mine set up on a spa panel GFCI just to be safe, as many people who build these do. There can also be wonky behavior you need to adapt to. Heating elements can become dysfunctional, leading to tripped breakers in the panel, thermocouple cables can go out, PIDs can break, etc. Wires can fray or short. That said, my panel has worked just fine for a long time.
16" x 16" x 8"
36 lbs
Shipping within the lower 48 included.
Unusual item. This is a home built Electric Brewery style panel, with some upgrades from the original plans on the site.
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/control-panels
As you can see, the KIT for one of these is $1600. Mine is fully assembled, and powder coated a beautiful sparkling "beer" orange. I probably put $2500 into this thing!
I never put a decal or name plate on it, so that's up to you!
Includes the 10' power cable, a 10' element cable, thermocouple cables, and two RTDs. You will need to supply any other needed hardware.
The thermocouple cables have all been tested and are working with each of the three PIDs (boil, mash, HLT).
Here is a link to the RTD sensors the cables are designed to connect to if you want to buy one more: Liquid tight RTD sensor, 1.5 in, 1/2 NPT Thread [PT100-L401/2NPT] - $28.99 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry
The two main power outlets are controlled by PID via 40A SSRs, and a three way switch. It's not set up to run both at once. There are two other power switches (not PID controlled) at the bottom. One is "induction", which I set up to run two induction burners. The other is "HLT boost", to control an additional 5500W element in my HLT to boost time to brew temperature. With both the HLT element and boost element going, you will heat 15 gallons of water to 168°F in 15 minutes.
You could always change these two auxiliary outlets to power pumps, which is how the original EB box is set up.
There are some 'mistakes' to be aware of: the power label was printed backward (on is off and vice versa), one of the thermocoouple cable XLRs doesn't match the others (two are male, and thus need F/F adapters to work, one is female and doesn't need an adapter). I never used the alarm switches or timer (expensive decorations). I'm sure they work, but I haven't tested them.
Finally- do not buy or build one of these unless you are comfortable tinkering with electrical apparatus. It's dangerous to play around with a 50 Amp power box if you don't know what you're doing. I had mine set up on a spa panel GFCI just to be safe, as many people who build these do. There can also be wonky behavior you need to adapt to. Heating elements can become dysfunctional, leading to tripped breakers in the panel, thermocouple cables can go out, PIDs can break, etc. Wires can fray or short. That said, my panel has worked just fine for a long time.
