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Inkbird 100v woes

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Stever85

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I'm having issues figuring out my inkbird! It's like no matter what settings its on it trips my ssr and starts up the heating element, even if I set the pid to a target of 0 degrees. I have it wired like the picture attached, its reading temperatures accurately, but I'm at a loss! Any advice?
 

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Need pictures of the inside of your control panel, especially the labels on the SSRs.

Brew on :mug:
 
Pictures of the entire wiring diagram would help immensely. BUT on the front of the inkbird, is the OUT light lighting up when you see the element firing?
 
So I have a toggle switch for the elements that activates the relay assuming the ssr is triggered by the pid, but it seems the ssr is always triggered since whenever I flip the boil switch the element turns on.

I initially thought it was the cheap berm rex c-100 pids i bought, so ive switched one of them out to the inkbird and this is where im stuck!
 

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Thats the weird thing, if i set the pid to 0 degrees and flip the switch no output but itll fire up. If I set it to boil(100 celsius) output lights up when i flip the switch qnd it still fires up.
 

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My head hurts, it appears my ssr's are fried after running a continuity test on them, theyre always on. Now to see if i can remove them and replace. Thank you both foe your help but i think thats my answer
 
Are you testing with elements connected, or are you just going by the "element firing" lamps with the elements disconnected? SSRs are not perfect switches - they have leakage current when off. This leakage current is enough to turn on the element firing lamp if there is no low resistance load connected to the SSR - it's just the nature of the beast.

Brew on :mug:
 
Other thing to check.......Are you measuring the voltage across the signal portion of the SSRs? Ie: Looking for voltage changes when the PID is turning them on and off? If they're not getting any change in voltage, then something is wrong between the PID and the SSR. If they're getting voltage changes, but in turn the SSR is always on, then its a bad SSR.

Finally, measure the amps/watts you're getting at the element. If its full power, then its something upstream at the SSR. If you're getting 1/4 the power, then its an issue at the contactor and contactor is open and you're getting power from the hot leg that isnt connected to the SSR
 
What happens if you disconnect the control input on the SSR? There should zero current through the element.

You can control the SSR with a 9 volt battery. The output should go from 0V to full volts. Make sure yo utest the out put of teh SSR with aload on it. Putting just a meter across the output will not work.
 
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