[Initial Release] RaspberryPints - Digital Taplist Solution

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So I've found that the Time Delay Adjust is actually a useful feature on the PIR sensor. I've been running with it set to minimum which is roughly a 10s retrigger block, but with "TA DAAA!" going off every 10 seconds things got nutty quickly ;)

So I dialed it up to somewhere in the 10 minute region and now it only goes off once per trip to the keezer.

Supposedly you can control the audio gain via software. It would be interesting to have the little beast welcome the visitor and then play some soft background music...or even recorded background noise from the prototypical "Cheers" bah ;)

Cheers!
 
BadNewsBrewery said:
If you were looking for a lowest-common denominator for your customer base setting this up, I'd be pretty close. I managed to get through it, I can access the RPi from my laptop and access the program so all that seems legit. The RPi boots up into Kisok Mode, but that's where my success ends. When it boots up it displays a white background and says "It Works! This is the default web page for this server. The web server software is running but no content has been added, yet."

So where did I screw up?
Click to expand...


Delete /var/www/index.html

The index.html page is loaded before the index.php file.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
GilSwillBasementBrews said:
I have to say I am super impressed with this whole system. Installed and runs like a champ. got my port forwarded and is accessible from the webs. The only issue I have and was wondering if anyone had any insight into how I could rectify my issue. My taplist works across networks however the only display I had was an older monitor with only VGA plug. I did get A HDMI to VGA cord but even though the Pi is running properly when I turn the display on it just displays "DISCONNECT" in the center of the screen then the monitor cuts into standby. Is there some simple setting I am missing to get this display to accept input from the Pi via HDMI to VGA cord?

http://gilsbasementbrews.servebeer.com/
Click to expand...

shamelessly bumping still looking for anybody's input or suggestions???
 
Given there isn't a way for the graphics drivers to interrogate a VGA monitor I suspect you have to explicitly set the monitor geometry and refresh rate. I recall there was a step in the 'Pints instructions that covered this. Have you given that a try?

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
Given there isn't a way for the graphics drivers to interrogate a VGA monitor I suspect you have to explicitly set the monitor geometry and refresh rate. I recall there was a step in the 'Pints instructions that covered this. Have you given that a try?

Cheers!
Click to expand...

yes I have tried to set it specifically to the monitor in the config.txt file in the boot folder. I also uncommented the HDMI options for no display or blinking and that didn't help I also uncommented the HDMI signal boost option that was also in the config file. Still cant get any output to the monitor which is aggravating. Had it hooked up to my TV during initial install and setup and had no issues tried hooking up to the monitor and get nothing. Just hope I can get this working without having to get a new monitor.
 
GilSwillBasementBrews said:
Thanks I'll have to give that a read through when I get a minute. Really makes you wonder why they would make such a cable if it will not work though.


Sent from somewhere to someone
Click to expand...

Sometimes you can use that type of cable to go directly from a DVD player, or something like that, to a computer monitor (or projector).

You cannot go directly from the HDMI port on a PC to a VGA port on a monitor. Somebody once explained why it does not work with a PC, but I don't remember all the technical reasons why it won't work. It had something to do with the DVD player being able to use the HDMI port as either an analog signal or a digital signal, whereas the PC only uses the HDMI port as a digital signal (or something like that).
 
BadNewsBrewery said:
If you were looking for a lowest-common denominator for your customer base setting this up, I'd be pretty close. I managed to get through it, I can access the RPi from my laptop and access the program so all that seems legit. The RPi boots up into Kisok Mode, but that's where my success ends. When it boots up it displays a white background and says "It Works! This is the default web page for this server. The web server software is running but no content has been added, yet."

So where did I screw up?
Click to expand...

You forgot the step to delete index.htm or index.html from /var/www (I honestly forget which I wrote... try these).

Code: 
sudo rm /var/www/index.htm
sudo rm /var/www/index.html
 
KurtB said:
Sometimes you can use that type of cable to go directly from a DVD player, or something like that, to a computer monitor (or projector).

You cannot go directly from the HDMI port on a PC to a VGA port on a monitor. Somebody once explained why it does not work with a PC, but I don't remember all the technical reasons why it won't work. It had something to do with the DVD player being able to use the HDMI port as either an analog signal or a digital signal, whereas the PC only uses the HDMI port as a digital signal (or something like that).
Click to expand...

This. The problem is that HDMI and VGA use very different signaling methods. Thus, you need an active HDMI to VGA converter. They tend to be obvious in pictures because they usually have a little extra bulky section for the conversion circuitry. Like so:

HDMI_VGA_white.jpg


Another clue of an active cable is a 6' cable having a pricetag of $15+.

0012396_pearltech-hdmi-to-vga-cable.jpeg


This is a passive cable, which merely changes the connector type and may bridge some pins. These are only for very specific use cases, ones that you almost certainly don't have.

Now, if the output devices was built with this type of cable in mind, you'll be fine. Most modern desktop video cards are capable of using these, though usually only on the first one or two output ports. It requires the manufacturer to plan for a dedicated clock, which they tend to cut corners on past the 2nd connector. There are specialty cards that break this rule of thumb (e.g., Eyefinity-6), but they're rare. Anyway, the Pi was not built with this in mind.

Everything above also applies to DVI-to-VGA cables. You'll need an active cable or converter if you want to use one.

Check your monitor for a composite video port (yellow RCA jack). If so, all you have to do is connect the Pi to the monitor with either a composite cable or component cable (pick any one color hookup, leave the rest unused).
 
Thanks guys. Explains why no matter what I tried I could not get it to display on that monitor. Unfortunately no. It doesn't have a composite jack either. Guess I'm just going to have I bite the bullet and either get the appropriate cable or find another monitor that will work. So much for cheaping on it. That will teach me to do my homework first and buy once instead of impulse grabbing and praying.

Again awesome project thanks everyone for all contributions past and future. Keep up the great work and support everyone.


Sent from somewhere to someone
 
No worries.the cash spent towards adapting may be better spent on a new monitor. Add in energy savings and the payback period mah not be too long anyway.

To add complexity... if you ever want to convert DVI to VGA, you can look at the socket for a good idea if it will work or not. If the DVI docket on the sending device has 4 pins around the flat prong, it will pass an analog signal in the cable. Almost all DVI-equipped devices these days have this on at least two ports. Early cards and exotic card ports (VHDCI on nVidia Quattro cards, im looking at you) may only pass digitial signals, which means you need a $20 active converter box.

Btw, to convert HDMI to DVI and vice versa, you need nothing more than a dumb adapter to convert the pin layout since they use the same signaling method. Not quite true for DP, unless the device is expecting it (tends to only be only select high-end Apple/Dell devices).

To correct the above, I said active cables that are 6' and over $15. This is wrong. VGA adapter cables to digital interefaces are almost always 12" or so, as theyexpect you to have a VGA cable already. Notice the dongle ends in a male female port like your monitor... not a male port like a cable.
 
GilSwillBasementBrews said:
Guess I'm just going to have I bite the bullet and either get the appropriate cable or find another monitor that will work. So much for cheaping on it. That will teach me to do my homework first and buy once instead of impulse grabbing and praying.
Click to expand...

I looked around at the local resale stores (most are church related) and found a 17" flat screen with a DVI input for $25. HDMI to DVI cables are cheap and work fine. The screen in not the prettiest but mine is on my screen porch and works find.

Just got this working and now I've gotta figure out this ir sensor thing. You guys are something!
 
I was wondering if the original team is still planning on rolling out the flow meter version, or if it is better to just get an arduino and tinker with it? There has been a lot of chatter in this thread of people taking their own spin on this that I am not sure if the project is still alive and if there is still to come new versions?
Thanks
 
We're here. :)

The backend is being rewritten for an MVC to allow for future expansion. We wanted to strengthen the foundation before we started stacking on features.

That said, I have an Alamode test board stacked on mine and I can measure the pours accurately with the code we have written already.
 
thadius856 said:
We're here. :)

The backend is being rewritten for an MVC to allow for future expansion. We wanted to strengthen the foundation before we started stacking on features.

That said, I have an Alamode test board stacked on mine and I can measure the pours accurately with the code we have written already.
Click to expand...

I'm willing to wait for your update rather than jumping out on my own and then having to change it when it comes out. That being said, any update on what features are likely to be included in the next rollout? I feel like a kid trying to sneak a look at the presents before Christmas :)
 
2Kegger said:
I'm willing to wait for your update rather than jumping out on my own and then having to change it when it comes out. That being said, any update on what features are likely to be included in the next rollout? I feel like a kid trying to sneak a look at the presents before Christmas :)
Click to expand...

Go ahead and check out our feature list and vote or add what you want!!!

http://raspberrypints.com/request-feature/

flow meters are diffidently in version 2 though
 
On the bright side... I talked with my IT Department about what they did with all of the old monitors and they said that they recycle them and told me to come over and take one.
Free 17" flat panel monitor !!!!
It doesn't have HDMI though. Anything I need to do to make this work? HDMI to DVI cable?

Also, should it worry me that neither of the two IT persons I talked to knew what a Raspberry Pi was??
 
If the monitor has a DVI input all you need is a cheap passive HDMI-DVI cable. That's what I'm doing and it works just fine. The 'Pi can auto detect the proper geometry and timing without issue.

Otoh, if the monitor only has a VGA input you'll need an active HDMI-VGA converter. More money, and you'll likely need to specify the monitor geometry and refresh rate.

As for IT departments, generally one should never be surprised what they are unaware of ;)

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
If the monitor has a DVI input all you need is a cheap passive HDMI-DVI cable. That's what I'm doing and it works just fine. The 'Pi can auto detect the proper geometry and timing without issue.

Otoh, if the monitor only has a VGA input you'll need an active HDMI-VGA converter. More money, and you'll likely need to specify the monitor geometry and refresh rate.

As for IT departments, generally one should never be surprised what they are unaware of ;)

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Sweet! I just need the passive cable and a Pi and I should be good to go. Have the rest of the components.

Now, where is the best place to buy a Pi. I have been searching Amazon and they all seem to be priced about the same.
 
The Micro Center in my area has been pricing RPi Version 1 and 2 the same. $29.99. Which is a steal and I was tempted to buy them all... Not sure if you have any of those around.


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NewEgg has them for $37.79 with $0.99 shipping.
All the other sites were killing me with shipping so this may be the best route to go (plus there is no sales tax - screw you Amazon)
 
Just finished up my online order for my RPi, wireless adapter, HDMI to DVI cable and HC-SR501 motion sensor.
All from NewEgg. Seemed to be the best for shipping....

Now we play the waiting game... Tick tock. Tick tock.
Anything I can do in the meantime? I have been studying this thread to death and am finally taking the leap on the RPi.


Edit: Dang.. forgot to add a case encosure...
 
day_trippr said:
And now, for something completely different: I have my 'Pi not only waking up my taplist display when the PIR sensor detects someone approaching the keezer, it plays a musical greeting!

That took roughly 10 minutes to install the needed packages, install the driver, add a couple of lines of code to pir_run.py, and reboot. It took longer to dig through my parts bins in search of a 12VDC wall wart to power a pair of Labtec speakers that I'm pretty sure are older than about half the HBT population ;)

I'm using the classic Windows Start sound file ("TA DA!"). I had a "bubbles" sound track running and it scared the crap out of the wife first time she walked by the keezer ;)

Cheers!
Click to expand...

I got my motion sensor today and had it up and running in about 10 minutes. Thanks for the great instructions! Then I added the sound. First, I had music. Then I loaded espeak and it said, "Joe is a goof. Stay away from my slobber." Joe is my neighbor and he likes my caribou slobber :) (He also brews and I know he will see this post)

Anyway, it went off every 5 seconds, so I modified the delay. The more I think about it, though, I think I'll wait for sound until the flow sensors come out. I'll have a specific sound for each tap. "Stay away from the slobber" for the caribou slobber... "Mind your pee" for the skeeter pee... and so on. There are so many fun things to do! I think my wife is scared. I know Joe's is.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed directly or indirectly to all of this! And Day_Tripper, thanks for making this so easy for the screen saver!
 
JonGrafto said:
Just finished up my online order for my RPi, wireless adapter, HDMI to DVI cable and HC-SR501 motion sensor.
All from NewEgg. Seemed to be the best for shipping....

Now we play the waiting game... Tick tock. Tick tock.
Anything I can do in the meantime? I have been studying this thread to death and am finally taking the leap on the RPi.


Edit: Dang.. forgot to add a case encosure...
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry too much about the enclosure. I just hooked up my motion sensor and realized I need to drill a hole for the wires. And I'm guessing there will be more modifications when version 2 comes out. And there are so many options! Check out this site: http://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=40&sid=fc02e090e23b2ac886cd3a1b6dc0ceed
This forum has to do with cases for the RPi. There is even one you can print out on your printer using construction paper. Cut it out and fold it up and ta da! A case! Have fun!
 
I agree about not worrying too much about an enclosure right now. The flow sensors will use at least one mezzanine card atop the Pi and the most popular cases won't fit that anyway...

Cheers!
 
I was keeping my fingers crossed, I would be able to do this without help. I am stuck and I don't want to move forward until I correct it. I have installed the OS. During the set up I adjusted the Local Timezone. But I did not do the Overscan settings, Changing Password, Boot Environment settings. How do I get back into Raspberry Pi from the Raspbian desktop to complete those steps? I have searched this thread and I am sure I just missed an answer to my question.
 
Log out using the icon that's where a start menu would be in windows.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Dan Thank you for the reply - That defaults me to the screen that I need to input the password startx. From here how do I get back to the screen that I need?
 
I believe the menu is called raspi-config but I don't recall how to open it. I thought you just wanted back into the other screen. I'll keep looking to see if I can find it...
 
Dan thank you for your help and your time. I found how to do it. You can run raspi-config any time - click on the desktop icon LXTerminal then type the command sudo raspi-config and your in. As long as this took i think i would have saved time just starting over lol
 
Well I'm glad you got it. It's worth it.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 

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