Planning to do a water boil test tonight, got side tracked last night.
What kind of fridge is that? It looks the perfect size for 3g better bottles.
Sammy - Ha, oh if I only had a dollar for everytime I heard that forgiveness/permission schtick from a divorced husband...
Really, with a single income, it's a pick/chose type thing. I will say that even the SWMBO has mentioned - of all the hobbies I've had, this is the least expensive by FAR.
I know there's a few guys on here with the Solar style pumps, and for just a decent 12pack more you could be into a Chugger. I'll take the Chugger myself.
Of course though, I love spending Sammy's money.![]()
I didn't realize the Chugger with the poly head was only $110 + shipping. Dang. Not a bad price! I think the SWMBO might approve that?
I'd go with either the March or the Chugger, and I personally don't see an issue with the polysuphone head over stainless for our application. I've seen more than a few that worked with far worse chemicals than beer that are still humming along with propper maintenance. I know there's a few guys on here with the Solar style pumps, and for just a decent 12pack more you could be into a Chugger. I'll take the Chugger myself.
Of course though, I love spending Sammy's money.![]()
Only downsides I see with poly is the connections strip easier than brass or SS. My camlock fitting are all polysulphone. But one you have your fittings on correctly how often are you going to be removing them anyway.
Any way to use an induction burner with a sanke keggle? I'd really like to switch over from propane and I like induction over using water heater elements.
Bingo - I figure if you're making the commitment to a $110 pump a couple quick disconnect fittings (or at the very least, a few barbs) that will be put onto the house aren't going to be constantly removed possibly damaging the threads.
The housing is one piece anyway, and I'd be doing dis-assembly for cleaning/maintenance not any kind of caustic clean in place.
Just wish that they offered the poly head in a center input model, so I could orient the pump head up - no priming worries at all with that orientation.
I don't think a keggle will work. The kettle you chose for induction needs to have a flat bottom to make proximity contact with the magnetic coils below the surface of the cooktop.
Denny -
Silly question time, I've seen the valved "T" on the output side of the pump before, and thought it was an air purge in addition to your send line. It looks like you have two of the poly end pieces on that T, meaning you're hooking up for two separate reason. Any chance you could explain why you'd go that route?
Trying to figure out how I'd like to set up a single pump for recirc, cooling, and perhaps some form of a Randall/hopback.
Sammy - Stratification is a bad thing.
If I were to put an iron skillet on the induction heater, could I then heat a starter in a glass flask on top of the skillet? Seems like if the skillet gets hot it would work, but I've never used an induction cooker. Thank you.