Increasing alcohol production fast

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shopkins1994

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Hi Everyone. I was wondering if anyone knew how to increase the rate of alcohol production in wine/beer without increasing time, amount of yeast, or temperature. Is this even possible? Do some strains of yeast produce alcohol faster than others?

I have yeast, bacteria, and enzymes doing their thing, and if I increase heat or time they will all increase in their products. I only want production of alcohol to increase. Any help you can provide would be really appreciated.

Thanks,

Sam
 
You could add pure sugar to a beer wort to increase ABV. The sugar will be fermented out fast. It will also thin the beer and dry it out. May make your beer taste less than desirable for drinking.
 
If you really only want alcohol go to the liquor store and buy some grain alcohol. It will be cheaper.

If you want good beer or wine with a high alcohol content, brew a recipe designed that way.

Just adding a lot of sugar will likely give you something awful.
 
I agree with that^^^.

Alcohol content is determined by the amount of fermentable sugar compounds avail for the yeast to consume. So...add fermentable sugars (increase your grain bill, DME, LME, cane, beet, corn, etc). There are pros and cons to each.


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Hi Everyone. I was wondering if anyone knew how to increase the rate of alcohol production in wine/beer without increasing time, amount of yeast, or temperature.

If time is a limiting factor for you, this may not be the hobby for you.

Making a big, high alcohol by volume beer, by its very nature, needs both an increase in yeast and time. As well as an increase in fermentable sugars, whether in grain or refined sugar. An increase in temperature will certainly speed things up, but often to the detriment of taste.

Even modest ABV beers take time and patience to enjoy. Several weeks in the fermenter, several weeks (at least) in the bottle, a little faster if you keg. Bigger beers don't necessarily need more time to ferment (though some do), but they often need more time to age, which can add more weeks, and sometimes months to the process.
 
If you really only want alcohol go to the liquor store and buy some grain alcohol. It will be cheaper.

If you want good beer or wine with a high alcohol content, brew a recipe designed that way.

Just adding a lot of sugar will likely give you something awful.

THIS.

Generally, the higher the ABV, longer it will take the yeast to crunch through all of the sugars, and the longer it should be aged, to let the flavors meld and mellow.

You could always dump a crap-ton of yeast and sugar in, or just add liquor. But, again, these things take time before they're good.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I don't necessary want a high alcohol beer per say. When beer is brewing, yeast, bacteria, and enzymes are all working at the same time. I want the yeast to perform faster than the bacteria and enzymes.

For instance, if having a little Lactobacillus bacteria in beer is good, but a lot is bad, if I spend time letting the yeast ferment to get to the correct alcohol level, then the Lactobacillus bacteria will also be at work and result in a lot of Lactobacillus bacteria (and acid). I need a way to speed up the yeast without speeding up the bacteria (and enzymes).

My problem is that I am trying to get to an alcohol level without increasing the acidity level of the brew. I can't correct the acidity level after the fact because it has an undesirable effect on the fermentables. I also can't buffer beforehand because the buffering also has an undesirable effect on the fermentables.

Sam
 
Everything is a give and take, and patience is the rule when it comes to making beer. You can make alcohol fast, but the results will not be impressive. If you like getting drunk I agree with those above, just get hard liquor and be done with it. If you try to rush a beer through with high heat you will end up with hot alcohols that not only taste bad but will give you headaches and hangovers.
 
Everything is a give and take, and patience is the rule when it comes to making beer. You can make alcohol fast, but the results will not be impressive. If you like getting drunk I agree with those above, just get hard liquor and be done with it. If you try to rush a beer through with high heat you will end up with hot alcohols that not only taste bad but will give you headaches and hangovers.

I'm looking to get to a alcohol content of 5% but without the effects of bacteria and enzyme action on the fermentables.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I don't necessary want a high alcohol beer per say. When beer is brewing, yeast, bacteria, and enzymes are all working at the same time. I want the yeast to perform faster than the bacteria and enzymes.

For instance, if having a little Lactobacillus bacteria in beer is good, but a lot is bad, if I spend time letting the yeast ferment to get to the correct alcohol level, then the Lactobacillus bacteria will also be at work and result in a lot of Lactobacillus bacteria (and acid). I need a way to speed up the yeast without speeding up the bacteria (and enzymes).

My problem is that I am trying to get to an alcohol level without increasing the acidity level of the brew. I can't correct the acidity level after the fact because it has an undesirable effect on the fermentables. I also can't buffer beforehand because the buffering also has an undesirable effect on the fermentables.

Sam

I can't decide if you are trolling or just don't understand what you are talking about. :confused:
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I don't necessary want a high alcohol beer per say. When beer is brewing, yeast, bacteria, and enzymes are all working at the same time. I want the yeast to perform faster than the bacteria and enzymes.

For instance, if having a little Lactobacillus bacteria in beer is good, but a lot is bad, if I spend time letting the yeast ferment to get to the correct alcohol level, then the Lactobacillus bacteria will also be at work and result in a lot of Lactobacillus bacteria (and acid). I need a way to speed up the yeast without speeding up the bacteria (and enzymes).

My problem is that I am trying to get to an alcohol level without increasing the acidity level of the brew. I can't correct the acidity level after the fact because it has an undesirable effect on the fermentables. I also can't buffer beforehand because the buffering also has an undesirable effect on the fermentables.

Sam

By the time it is fermenting all the enzymes should be denatured and the boil should make sure there is no Lactose-bacillus. So the trick is to time the point that you add the Lactose-bacillus. The 2 different ways to do this are with a sour mash AKA pre-boil or by adding the bacteria into the fermenter like Belgian beers. You should fine plenty of information on both ways of doing it with a quick search.
 
Hi Setesh,

I'm not trolling. The bacteria (and enzymes to a lesser extent) are having an effect on the fermentables that are affecting the final product. For instance as the bacteria work, it creates byproducts that are changing the fermentables which affect the flavor (because as the bacteria convert stuff such as acid that is breaking stuff down).

So how to do this? If I increase heat to increase the rate of the yeast it also will make the bacteria faster as well. If I add time, it just allows the bacteria to work longer with the same effect.

Sam
 
I am not into all the chemistry and biology that there can be with brewing, but I think you are way over-thinking this. Unless you are doing something very scientific that I don't see in you posts.

Brew the beer per proper procedures, pitch the yeast and let them do their work. Results = BEER!
 
Sam,
If you are an all grain brewer using Brew in a Bag, try a very tight crush (which could cause a false bottom to get clogged), do a dunk sparge, and mash at 142 for an hour, then raise the mash temperature to 148 for 30 minutes, then 152 for 30 minutes. This will get you a more fermentable wort, and probably a higher brew house efficiency, meaning more alcohol for the same amount of grain.
 
Wow! Assuming that this is not a "troll thread" - and four posts total by a "new" poster all in one thread within a couple of hours certainly smacks of TROLL - the amount of misinformation in this series is staggering.

I thin what the OP is asking about is getting the alcohol level up to a point where competition for the ferment able sugars is removed so that only the yeast is left to continue the fermentation. The "competitors" are cited as being bacteria and enzymes.

First, the bacteria will continue to digest sugars right along side the yeast. Out goal is to provide optimum conditions for growth of the yeast population so that their effects far outweigh the effects of the bacteria. As an analogy, my Dad used to say that a health lawn is the best way to keep weeds down. The idea was that the healthy grass would outcompete the weed for soil, water, nutrients and sunlight, effectively starving the weeds out. That's what we want to do with the yeast, as well.

To do this, we set the fermentation temperature to optimal for the yeast, not higher temperatures the bacteria favor. We oxygenate the wort at the beginning to provide the raw materials for optimal yeast reproduction and population growth. We pitch health doses of clean, pure strain yeast pitches that are properly sized for the volume and specific gravity of the wort.

Once the mash is complete and the wort is on the boil, everything we use that touches the wort is cleaned and sanitized to prevent introduction of unwanted bacteria. We ferment in clean, sanitized vessels to reduce contamination.

In short, we do everything possible to skew the fermentation environment to one most favorable to the yeast.

That is how we affect the competition.

As far as comments about the enzymes, this is an example of a very little learning being dangerous. The mechanisms that control the yeast's metabolism are controlled by enzymes. Enzymes are not some weird pseudo creature crawling around looking for opportunities to create mayhem. They are proteins synthesized by living creatures as part of the creatures way of conducting life. Enzymes moderate and facilitate chemical reactions that are necessary for the production of energy, synthesis of building materials for organism growth, degradation of waste products and all living processes.

In fact, without enzymes at work within the yeast, there would be no alcohol or CO2 in our beer!

I assume that the OP is probably thinking of the enzymes that degrade the long chain carbohydrates into ferment able sugars. If this is the case, the boil has long since destroyed any trace of the amylases. Enzymes, being proteins, are very susceptible to temperatures. The basic structure of the enzymes is broken down above certain temperatures that are specific to each enzyme.

So, if the OP really isn't a troll trying to kick over a hornet's nest, do yourself a favor and get a few simple books on brewing and do some reading. All of this information is available and easily had.

Now...I need to bottle my Rye Porter to free up fermentation chamber space to brew my standard Porter later today.

Carry on, and RDWHAHB!!!


Ian
 
Hi Setesh,

I'm not trolling. The bacteria (and enzymes to a lesser extent) are having an effect on the fermentables that are affecting the final product. For instance as the bacteria work, it creates byproducts that are changing the fermentables which affect the flavor (because as the bacteria convert stuff such as acid that is breaking stuff down).

So how to do this? If I increase heat to increase the rate of the yeast it also will make the bacteria faster as well. If I add time, it just allows the bacteria to work longer with the same effect.

Sam

Where are you getting this from? Are you suffering from chronic infections? If so, you need to look at your sanitation practices and equipment first. If not, then this is a non-issue. Wild yeast and bacteria aren't a factor if you're properly sanitizing. If you're doing everything correctly, bacteria won't have time to take hold before the yeast multiply and create alcohol (which kills the bacteria, as it seems you understand.)

Yeast is a pretty destructive beast. They take over and crowd out other organisms very effectively. They're kind of the kudzu of the microscopic world.

From your original post, you made it sound like you just want to create alcohol fast, without effectively communicating your reason. You still haven't given much of a reason, except for the desire to have the yeast take hold before bacteria does. Well, why is this of concern to you? If you're properly sanitizing, it shouldn't be a concern. I think that's why you've gotten questions of trolling and wondering whether you know what you're talking about.

Maybe give us some more information, and we'll be able to help you better. How long have you been brewing? How have your batches turned out? Etc.
 
Why not focus on making tasty, good quality beer? It's not a race after all.....
 
OP, I think it would help everyone immensely if you take a step back and explain your reasoning clearly as to why you want each step to be a certain way. That is, what you're trying to achieve.

Most of us are looking at this and saying, "Urm, wut?" or something like that, as these aren't problems that we normally address, or at least in this fashion. Yeast lower the pH of the beer, so it' not only bacteria that do that. Good sanitation practices prevent harmful bacterial populations to begin with. You want the enzymes to be active, as that's how yeast break down di- and saccharides. These are just examples why the question is confusing.

I'm not going to call troll on this one, but I do think taking a step back and carefully explaining, step by step, what you want to achieve and how you want to do it would help everyone, including you.


Oh hell. Ninjaed by theZymurgist. I'll leave this as is, just 'cause.
 
I'll take one for the team and say I am so god damned confused about what the OP wants.
The quickest way to beer here is a run to the store. It seems like an even better bet than prison hooch.
 
Guys, this isn't about quick hooch. OP has stated that his concern is speed of fermentation relative to other things going on. What's confusing is what "other things" OP believes are going on, why they're going on, and what effect they have on the end product. That's what needs clarification. It sounds like he got bad brewing advice, or misinterpreted some technical text, but we need to ask him that.

I don't think it will help to have 20 more "You're impatient! Buy beer at the store, prison hooch drinker!" posts.
 
Hi Guys. GuidTuborg is correct. I am trying to increase yeast fermentation relative to other things that are going on. Sorry that I did not explain myself, I didn't want to subject everyone to a long post. I'm not a troll either, do people even troll brewing forums?

Anyway, thanks for all the help from everyone so far. I am not trying to solve any problems like sanitation or off flavors, etc. I brew quite a bit and have about 1,000 bottles of home made wine in my wine cellar. I am working on a recipe/method that concentrates on yeast fermentation without bacterial action (and other actions such as enzymes). Grains contain wild yeast, wild bacteria, and its own enzymes from the farmers field. I want to limit their involvement. I want to make a brew where nothing else has occurred except for the yeast. Sure I can toss my ingredients in a carboy and have good wine/beer in a month but I want to create something different.

The question is how to do this? The main thing I want to do is to stop acid production. I know that yeast will stick some in, but not as much as the wild lacto bacteria. I can't cook the fermentable to kill everything because it is changing the fermentables. I can't adjust the acid after the fact because the bacteria are also acting on the fermentables and putting out other things (as well as consuming it). As I also mentioned I can't buffer beforehand because it is having an effect on the fermentables in a bad way. I received a private message to try different yeast so I am going to try that and hopefully find one that is more faster than the others. K1-1116 is advertised as vigorous.

Does anyone know if bacteria grow in the exact same relation to yeast based on temperature. For instance if yeast and bacteria double every hour at say 80 degrees, does lowering the temperture change this. So maybe at 59 degrees the yeast doubles every 4 hours but the bacteria doubles every 8 hours. Thus I would have faster yeast fermentation compared to bacterial action.

Sam
 
Hi Guys. GuidTuborg is correct. I am trying to increase yeast fermentation relative to other things that are going on. Sorry that I did not explain myself, I didn't want to subject everyone to a long post. I'm not a troll either, do people even troll brewing forums?

Sorry for 2nd guessing you, but I don't think anything is free from trolling anymore :(

Grains contain wild yeast, wild bacteria, and its own enzymes from the farmers field. I want to limit their involvement.

True, grains have all sorts of spore on them, but that is one reason we boil. That will kill all of the bugs. If you are not allowing unwanted bugs to enter after you have boiled then you have only the yeast that you put in.

The enzymes in the grain are responsible for turning the starches to sugars, without them we wouldn't be able to do all grain brewing. I'm confused on what you think enzymes are doing that is bad, unless you are putting Beno in your fermentor, the enzymes are all denatured by the boil too.

The question is how to do this? The main thing I want to do is to stop acid production. I know that yeast will stick some in, but not as much as the wild lacto bacteria. I can't cook the fermentable to kill everything because it is changing the fermentables. I can't adjust the acid after the fact because the bacteria are also acting on the fermentables and putting out other things (as well as consuming it). As I also mentioned I can't buffer beforehand because it is having an effect on the fermentables in a bad way. I received a private message to try different yeast so I am going to try that and hopefully find one that is more faster than the others. K1-1116 is advertised as vigorous.

I'm confused on this one too. It sounds like you have been making wine for a while, but I'm wondering about your beer making knowledge. A lot of the things you are concerned about aren't really concerns if you take the right steps and a few precautions. The oxymoron of not wanting enzymes to act on your beer is one reason I thought you might be trolling. I suggest picking up a copy of How To Brew by John Palmer. It's an outstanding book and has a ton of information in it. You can read the online version for free, but the hard copy is much more up to date and an excellent recourse for even advanced brewers.
 
If I understand the fastest way to kick start fermentation is
1- Enough Yeast (activated)
2- Pure Oxygen (like from a welding tank)
This won't gain you alcohol but will get fermentation going quicker and there for shorten fermentation time.
 
image.jpg
This beer was brewed last night and came out of kettle at 7:30pm.
The faster the yeast starts the less chance for infection.
 
OP, can you dumb this down even more for us? Everything you've written so far makes it sound like you just want to bring grains home from the homebrew store, put them directly in a fermenter with room-temperature water, and pitch yeast. In this case you WOULD need to worry about yeast and lactobacillus competing, but this isn't how beer is made.

Maybe you can tell us a little more about your proposed process so we know what advice to give you. Because right now your posts are making it seem like you have no clue how beer is made and in that case it would be really beneficial for you to read a beginner brewing book like some of the above posters have suggested.
 
OP, with good sanitation, effects from bacteria are not noticeable to even a fairly critical palate. Without enzymes, you cannot make beer. Full stop.

Edit: And without the acidity created by the yeast, your beer will never be shelf stable and safe to drink.

Despite your detailed reply, I don't think I'm any closer to knowing why you want to stop bacterial and enzymatic action. What did you read or hear that made you want to do this?
 
1) mash: crushed malted grains and hot water are mixed to make enzymes in the grain break down starch in the grain to sugar. There is lactobacillus and other bacteria on the surface of the grain present. Enzymes need to be active to break down the starch and create sugars for yeast to metabolize.
2) boil: after mashing to create sugar from the starches in the grains the sweet liquid is drained and boiled, generally with hops or other bittering substances, which destroys the enzymes breaking down the starch and kills the bacteria that was present on the grain. This essentially sterilizes the sweet liquid (wort).
3) ferment: yeast is added to the wort and allowed to ferment the liquid and produce alcohol and flavor substances. During this stage rigorous sanitation is practiced to avoid contamination by bacteria unless they are desired.
OP, I think that these concepts are pretty widely understood here, but perhaps they are foreign to you. Perhaps you aren't making yourself clear as well. From what I can pick up from your posts perhaps you are assuming brewing beer is like making wine? Boiling kills the bacteria and destroys the enzymes, so wort/fermenting beer should be basically sterile with only your desired culture of yeast acting on it/fermenting.
 
OP are you part of the raw food movement or something?

Typically beer is brewed, meaning that it is subjected to a boil. I know that in England home brewers often use malt extracts already infused with hops to make beer without boiling themselves, but the product they use was most certainly exposed to at least boiling temps before packaging.

In short, to make beer the wort is boiled. It is an essential element. If you don't want to boil I say stick with wine. Beer is brewed. Beer is brewed. Beer is brewed.

If you want to rock the beer world with a non-boiled beer then you're blazing your own trail here. God's speed my friend.
 

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