Improving my cooling rates

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koomber

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I've done a few brews now and my biggest complaint so far has been that the cooling rates have been far too long. Even keeping constant agitation, it take 30 minutes - 45 minutes to cool a 5 gallon brew.

With this in mind I've come up with a cunning plan. A refrigerated cooling system.

Essentially this would be a self contained unit that consists of 2 coils linked in series with a pump moving the coolant through them. There would be a reservoir of coolant in the system too. The coolant would be something food safe with a low freezing point, such as a water/monopropylene glycol blend. this would make the system safer if there was a small leak, but if there was a big like it would be getting binned regardless of what coolant was used.

To minimise manual mixing I'll fit a recirculation pump that will keep moving the hot wort over the cooling coils.

During Inital cooling (say boiling to 60°C) the secondry cooling coil is largely cooled by water. As the temperature drops further the water is repalced with iceand water. Then you add salt :)

This will cause the temperature in the bucket to drop well below freezing speeding up the rate of cooling dramatically I hope...


The other idea I had was that since I'm using an electruic boiler with an external element, the element is acting as a massive storage heater. By making a disk of copper tubing (imagine doubling the copper then rolling a disk like a measuring tape with it but with both bits of pipe on the same plain)
This would sit on the bottom of the boiler durign the boil with no water running through, it shouldn't, therefore, affect the boil time significantly. When it comes time to cool, cooling water is pumped through the disk providing a barrier between the heat of the element and the wort.

Massive post but I thought I'd see what the pros thought.
 
with winter knocking on my door, cooling wort will soon be a non issue for me. once the tap water gets cold. I think rec ice water through a IC would be way simpler. but Necessity is the mother of invention.
 
Your system should work. Heat loss is most efficient when there is a large temperature differential. This is why it is quicker to get from boiling to 100 than it is to go from 100 to 70 and chilling the secondary coolant will provide a large temperature differential. However, I think you could minimize the complexity of your system by using your ground water to chill as low as you can and then switch to a submersible pump recirculating an ice water bath through your coils. With a small amount of hand stirring of my wort, I use this type of system to get 5 gallons from boiling to pitching temps in about 15 minutes. The amount of ice I need for my ice bath is dependent on the ground water temperature and ale vs lager. For an ale and the typical summer groundwater temperature of 85, I use 20 pounds of ice for an ale and 40 pounds for a lager. I brewed last weekend and the ground water temp was 75 and I only needed 10 pounds of ice for an ale.
 
I'm right up there with you. By far my least favorite part of my brew day is waiting for my wort to cool. I am planning to do the same thing you are, modifying my keggle with a second ball valve and utilizing one of my pumps to whirlpool the wort around the immersion chiller as its running to hopefully get my wort to cool faster
 
Massive post but I thought I'd see what the pros thought.


Put a big rubber maid cooler salt water bath into a freezer and run a copper coil through it to pre-chill the water entering the cooling coil.

Build an electric stirring to create a whirlpool using parts from the McMaster-Carr catalog. You'll have to put a plug on the motor and face mount it on something.

Works like a charm.

P/N-16142K49 AC GEARMOTOR, W/FAN, FACE MNT, 100 RPM, 7 IN-LBS TORQUE, 115 VAC1

P/N-234935K66 POLYPROPYLENE PROPELLER W/COATED-STEEL SHAFT, FIXED-U, 2-9/16" PROPELLER DIAMETER1

P/N-36099K22 STAINLESS STEEL ONE-PIECE SET-SCREW COUPLING, 5/16" BORE, 1" LENGTH, 5/8" OD, WITHOUT KEYWAY1
 

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